Hello Forum.
I just purchased my first Shopsmith about a month ago. It's a 500 with the 510 table/fence upgrade from 1982 era. When I got it home I realized it was a 220V version which my garage was not wired for. I had a sub-panel installed in my garage with a dedicated 220V/20Amp circuit installed just for the saw. I plugged it in, flipped the switch and the machine ran nicely
My first cut was to rip a 1" piece of pine common board. The machine bogged down considerably during this cut. I replaced the blade with a freshly sharpened one (came with the saw, still had protective coating on the teeth) and got the same result. Last night I tried to rip a pine 2x4 with no luck.
The 220v the motor requires 6.5 amps. I ran 12/2 romex to my dedicated 220 outlet and the chord to the machine is probably about 12 gauge wire and only about 6ft long. There should be plenty of current getting to the motor.
Any suggestions of what could be wrong? Will these motors burn out or require brush replacement? I have no experience with induction motors but willing to learn if that might fix my problem. Thanks for your help.
My guess you are force feeding the wood. Slow down let the machine cut the board.
It is not a production machine built to process wood in a production setting. Slow down, relax and enjoy wood working. Also reduce the blade speed make sure you have it set on the lower end of the Saw speed range on the dial.
As others suggest, it could be alignment, belt tension and/or technique. I'm not an electrician but, even though you're satisfied that the current is adequate, you might want to have that checked.
My distribution box is wired with #10 from the meter box and the same from the box to the out lets and to each machine.
I am thinking improper Poly V belt tension. It could also be the motor drive belt or one of the sheaves not responding to changes in speed. (lubricaton) All used equipment should should be checked completely before using it
IIRC the line cord to the machine is 14 gauge which is adequate for 220V However using 12G all the way through the system is preferable.
Alignment is also a consideration just go over the machine completely and remove the belt tension on both belts and check to see if any shafts are tight.
A few years ago I was building a work bench and was ripping some southern yellow pine when my machine bogged down during some cuts. Turns out the wood was twisting and binding in the blade's kerf. Tapping some wedges into the kerf near the blade fixed that so wood binding can not be overlooked. Construction lumber is problematic because it is almost never dried to what it should be. Especially when ripping 2X4 or 2X6
Bill V
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange