Today in the shop "using the upper guard with thin rips"

[reible]

I've mentioned this "L" shaped fence attachment a few times and since I had it out and in use today I though I take a couple of pictures for those who are into the visual thing.

IMG_4639sc.jpg (468.9 KiB) Viewed 12875 times

IMG_4640sc.jpg (382.13 KiB) Viewed 12875 times

This is not my invention, the PTWFE has this in the ripping section of the book. There are a few other details that you can check out so you do it safely.

The idea is when the stock is being ripped from 3" to 1-1/2" you can use the fence straddler but when you get below 1-1/2" the top blade guard starts being a problem. The solution is the make this fence attachment and keep the upper guard in place.

This one is one I made a lot of years ago for the 500 but added some holes to use the 520 side t-track. It is a little short and one day I should make a new one. Again check your copy of the PTWFE for directions.

Ed

[algale]

Thanks for posting this, Ed. It seems I am often making thin rips and I usually switch to just the the riving knife. This is a better solution.

[dusty]

I'm too slow. I'll have to go to the shop and rip some thin strips with and without the upper saw guard before I'll understand.

With the "L" shaped fence in place, can you still use the fence straddler? I am interested mostly because of the impact it has on top side dust collection when the upper guard is removed.

I work almost exclusively without the upper saw guard. I don't recommend that but that is what I do (for all of my own reasons). With the upper guard removed, I believe the efficiency of the existing Shopsmith DC is greatly impacted.

BTW, when I do thin strips I usually have the cut offs on the other side of the blade.

[masonsailor2]

If you use the spacer and clamp method it's very easy to make thin strips that are very consistent in width from the cutoff side of the blade. It also simplifies the blade guard situation.
Paul

[algale]

If you use the spacer and clamp method it's very easy to make thin strips that are very consistent in width from the cutoff side of the blade. It also simplifies the blade guard situation.
Paul

Spacer and clamp method? What's that?

[masonsailor2]

First you rip the board to to dimension. Then clamp a board to the fence rail or table with a spacer of whatever dimension you need to get the thickness you want. The spacer will also include the width of the blade. Next remove the spacer, slide the fence over against the clamped board (gently) and then make your cut. Just keep the process up and you will get very consistent strips. If you are making strips for inlay mark the spacer and include which blade you are using and put it in your "save" drawer so you can duplicate the strips for future inlay. That works great when you are cutting strips to match a given bit or saw kerf.
Paul

[reible]

You have to remember that there are many ways to do a project. In the project I was working on I needed a number of 3/4" strips. There is no "the" way of doing this but there is "a" way.

If you're interested check out this:

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw ... tm#ripping

The section on thin ripping.

I recently posted how I cut some 1/8" thick strips, you can see that here:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 14#p237414

In both cases I can keep the blade guard in place. Just wanted to show you that.

Now back to this method. One thing that I like to do is line up all the parts to be cut then feed one after the other, the "next one" is the push stick for the one being cut. The last work piece is then fed with a piece of waste stock until it it cut then the waste stock is held in place while I power down.

Again this is never going to be "the" way but simply "a" way of doing it.

I also have a set of these:

http://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/

That I sometimes use. You can get down to 1/8" without damage with the optional foot.

Anyway do read the PTWFE section because as I mentioned there are a few things to keep in mind what you do narrow ripping. The first option in my opinion is to not remove the upper guard....

Ed