10er Dedicated Lathe Thread

[Dansmith]

Turned a vessel (box) today out of some relatively wet maple on the ER. Not the best turning but just seeing what I can do with my ER. Very little sanding involved (it shows). Lid opens with suction. Don't know how long it will do so due to the wet wood that I anticipate will stretch across.

I like practicing on free wood.

Not the best photos either; but, here they are.

[Dansmith]

By the way, I am getting a vibration noise (when I hollow a bowl or something like the box in the last post), and I think I may have figured out where it is coming from. I think; but, I could be wrong, that it is coming from the headstock vibrating on the rail opposite the locking mechanism. I wonder if I could eliminate that vibration if there was a way to clamp down both sides of the headstock.

Anyone have any ideas in this regard?

[JPG]

By the way, I am getting a vibration noise (when I hollow a bowl or something like the box in the last post), and I think I may have figured out where it is coming from. I think; but, I could be wrong, that it is coming from the headstock vibrating on the rail opposite the locking mechanism. I wonder if I could eliminate that vibration if there was a way to clamp down both sides of the headstock.

Anyone have any ideas in this regard?

Drive a wood wedge between the headstock and the tube.

[Dansmith]

By the way, I am getting a vibration noise (when I hollow a bowl or something like the box in the last post), and I think I may have figured out where it is coming from. I think; but, I could be wrong, that it is coming from the headstock vibrating on the rail opposite the locking mechanism. I wonder if I could eliminate that vibration if there was a way to clamp down both sides of the headstock.

Anyone have any ideas in this regard?

Drive a wood wedge between the headstock and the tube.

Good suggestion; but, I don't think a wood wedge would work because the space is probably something in the less than the .005" range, eyeballing it. It does not appear to be affecting the performance of the lathe. It appears to be just a noise that I'll prbably get used to in time.

[BuckeyeDennis]

I have only had a 10er (actually 2) for less than a month now. I have one with a speed changer, set up as a dedicated lathe. It has a 3/4 hp motor. I have been turning on it almost daily, from bowls to boxes to goblets. I am impressed so far. In my opinion, based on using some different mini and midi lathes, the 10 is at least as good as mini or midi size lathes. Don't know about full size lathes (they are likely better) since the last time I used one was almost 50 years ago in high school.

Although my dedicated 10er lathe has some spindle runout and some vibration, it still performs fine. I know the spindle diameter is only 5/8" while the common diameter on mini/midi lathes is 1". However, I am not sure which is stronger, 5/8" solid or 1" hollow.

I did add the tool rest and tool post handles, purchased through Skip, and find that an excellent addition, making moving the tool rest much easier and quicker than using the allen wrench.

I find that the 3/4 hp motor is adequate. Even with aggressive deep bowl cuts, it has not bogged down. I do occasionally get speed changer belt slippage however on headstock belt when I get too agressive.

I like that the headstock moves to most anywhere on the rails. I do have live center (it looked new) that came with the 10.

I want to start a thread on the use of the 10 as a lathe. Comments such as pros and cons are very welcome. I will continue to update my experience with the 10 as a lathe. Hopefully, there will be lots of feedback on this thread.
Thanks.

Dan, I'm working on motor and belt selection for that vintage Craftsman lathe that I'm restoring, with 10ER applications in mind as well. I'm looking at either a 3/4 or a 1 hp frame 56 3-phase motor with a VFD. Then it dawned on me that the drive belt might become the limiting factor, rather than the motor. So I spent a few hours studying belt-drive design guides from Baldor, Gates, etc. Sure enough, the belt drive could be the weakest link. Then I recalled that you had mentioned belt slippage problems in this thread.

The smalled pulley OD on my lathe is 2", same as a 10ER. What I discovered was that you have to use an AX type belt to transmit that much power with such a small pulley. And even then it's borderline. The AX cross section profile is the same as both the A and 4L profiles, and uses the same pulleys. But it's more flexible than the A, and grippier than the 4L, so it's rated for higher power with small pulleys.

I've already bought new 4L belts for my 10ER, but now that looks like the wrong type. Do you know what type of belts you are running?

Also, aside from the belt-slipping issue, do you see any benefit in going from 3/4 hp to 1 hp?

[Dansmith]

I have only had a 10er (actually 2) for less than a month now. I have one with a speed changer, set up as a dedicated lathe. It has a 3/4 hp motor. I have been turning on it almost daily, from bowls to boxes to goblets. I am impressed so far. In my opinion, based on using some different mini and midi lathes, the 10 is at least as good as mini or midi size lathes. Don't know about full size lathes (they are likely better) since the last time I used one was almost 50 years ago in high school.

Although my dedicated 10er lathe has some spindle runout and some vibration, it still performs fine. I know the spindle diameter is only 5/8" while the common diameter on mini/midi lathes is 1". However, I am not sure which is stronger, 5/8" solid or 1" hollow.

I did add the tool rest and tool post handles, purchased through Skip, and find that an excellent addition, making moving the tool rest much easier and quicker than using the allen wrench.

I find that the 3/4 hp motor is adequate. Even with aggressive deep bowl cuts, it has not bogged down. I do occasionally get speed changer belt slippage however on headstock belt when I get too agressive.

I like that the headstock moves to most anywhere on the rails. I do have live center (it looked new) that came with the 10.

I want to start a thread on the use of the 10 as a lathe. Comments such as pros and cons are very welcome. I will continue to update my experience with the 10 as a lathe. Hopefully, there will be lots of feedback on this thread.
Thanks.

Dan, I'm working on motor and belt selection for that vintage Craftsman lathe that I'm restoring, with 10ER applications in mind as well. I'm looking at either a 3/4 or a 1 hp frame 56 3-phase motor with a VFD. Then it dawned on me that the drive belt might become the limiting factor, rather than the motor. So I spent a few hours studying belt-drive design guides from Baldor, Gates, etc. Sure enough, the belt drive could be the weakest link. Then I recalled that you had mentioned belt slippage problems in this thread.

The smalled pulley OD on my lathe is 2", same as a 10ER. What I discovered was that you have to use an AX type belt to transmit that much power with such a small pulley. And even then it's borderline. The AX cross section profile is the same as both the A and 4L profiles, and uses the same pulleys. But it's more flexible than the A, and grippier than the 4L, so it's rated for higher power with small pulleys.

I've already bought new 4L belts for my 10ER, but now that looks like the wrong type. Do you know what type of belts you are running?

Also, aside from the belt-slipping issue, do you see any benefit in going from 3/4 hp to 1 hp?

Dennis, I don't have the belt slippage any longer since I followed the suggestion of Ron (RPD) (Thanks. Ron) that I look at Skip's speed changer maintenance per the link Ron provided in the second post in this thread. In any event, I am using the 4L Goodyear (Continental) belts (cogged).

As far a 1hp vs. 3/4hp, I don't know if there would be any benefit, at least for me. I have not turned anything large enough to make a difference. With what I have turned, never bogged down the motor, just belt slippage. My Dayton 3/4 hp motor is 10.8 amps.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Thanks Dan, that's good to know. I can save a few bucks by going with 3/4 hp motor, unless I get real lucky on eBay or CL.

[masonsailor2]

Vibration be damn that is great work !
Paul

[Dansmith]

Thanks Dan, that's good to know. I can save a few bucks by going with 3/4 hp motor, unless I get real lucky on eBay or CL.

I hope that is sufficient for what you intend to turn. Best of luck to you in your search.

[Dansmith]

Vibration be damn that is great work !
Paul

Thanks, Paul.