5/8" Arbor nut stuck

[TomH]

Frustration reigns in the shop! I need to get the 5/8" arbor adaptor off of my tablesaw blade however, it is being difficult.

So questions:

1. Is that thing reverse threaded like the Shopsmith Arbor? As in which way loosens the darn nut.

2. Any good advise on getting things unstuck?

I've tried WD-40 but no luck yet and I've tried turning the nut both ways...no movement. I even lightly tried to persuade it with the mallet but to no avail.

Thanks!

[dusty]

I do this with the blade and arbor mounted on the drive shaft (ready to do real work).

Then use the Shopsmith arbor wrench to secure the arbor against one of the way tubes. The other wrench (a rather large adjustable wrench) on the arbor nut. Pull one way and if that does not work --- pull the other way.

I do not recommend doing this on the bench or in a vise. The blade bites when you slip.

[charlese]

I've always had the best results when setting up like Dusty says then tapping the adjustable wrench with a metal hammer.

There is something magic about the reverberations set up by metal VS metal.

This is a system my FIL showed me when freeing lug nuts on a truck wheel.
The difference is -- on a truck wheel you HIT the bar with force.
On the Shopsmith a few taps will do.

[br549]

Is that thing reverse threaded like the Shopsmith Arbor? As in which way loosens the darn nut.

The nut, when looking perpendicular to either face of the blade, should turn in the same direction as the rotation of the blade to loosen the nut, and turn in the direction opposite of the rotation of the blade to tighten the nut.

Or, in other words:

If the nut is on the left hand side of the blade, then it is left hand threads.

If the nut is on the right hand side of the blade, then it is regular right hand threads.

[masonsailor2]

All of my 5/8" arbors are standard right hand nuts. The SS 1 1/4" arbors are left hand.
Paul

[TomH]

Success! Turns out I just needed to be more "assertive" with the hammer on the wrench! Plus it helped a ton to put it back on the SS and then brace against the way tubes as suggested.

Thank you all for the advise!

[dusty]

I am glad that it has worked out well. Please don't let this be the experience that causes you to reach for the hammer. More often than not, unless you are driving nails, the hammer is not the right tool.

Employing the way tubes for stops and working with the arbor mounted is very helpful and can safe a lot of grief. I ruined a blade trying to do what you did but with the arbor clamped in a vise. It wasn't as secure as I thought and when it came loose it went to the floor. Not good for saw blades.

[JPG]

Before resorting to a steel hammer, try a wooden mallet(A piece of firewood will suffice as a substitute).

I have found good open end / box end wrenches(that are fairly long) work far better than the flimsy things we usually try.