Ripping Blade Recommendation

[db5]

I have a lot of very old (40 years or more) 2x12s I need to rip. 32T carbide blade (sharpened and not used much) bogs down. New lumber cuts quickly and smoothly so I think I need a different blade. Any recommendations, not to costly please because I won't use it for much else.

[masonsailor2]

Wood that old can be very problematic. It can be tough going and it can be especially difficult if they are warped or have a lot of internal tension which can bind the blade. Do you have a band saw ? That sometimes is the only option. If you need a higher quality edge than the band saw can deliver cut them a little big ( like 1/16”) on the band saw and then trim them on the table saw.
Paul

[terrydowning]

Make sure the blade is clean, that newer wood could have gunked it up.
Ensure table alignment is good
Reduce Motor speed
Reduce feed rate.

and how much is a lot??

[dusty]

While you trying to decide how to do, please do not do test runs using large work pieces. By using smaller pieces you can maintain control of the work piece while at the same time learning what works.

You said 2 x 12s but not how long. The longer they are, the more problematic they become (harder to handle and more susceptible to internal tension).

[reible]

Ripping 2 x 12 's will be problematic anyway you do it on a table saw. The wood will have all sorts of twists, bows and combo's of things that make it difficult to keep it to the fence and not bind. The longer they are the more problematic. So if you have another option like a bandsaw then that is your answer.

If you still want to cut them on the shopsmith then look for a thin kerf rip blade. A coated blade might be a useful addition even on old wood. I'd say you are looking at something near $60 for a decent blade for this job.

If you can shorten the length that helps. Lower the speed to the rip setting and maybe to the low side of that. Examine the wood before you start and if they have a lot of bow you might want to make a sled that can run against the fence and hold the uneven workpiece away from the fence to slice off the bow and do this to all the pieces on one side before starting the finishing cuts where you can then have a straight edge to run against the fence. This can also be done with a track saw set up.

Ed

[Hobbyman2]

FWIW
Just my opinion of your post .

A while back I came on some maple lumber from a barn ,any where from 6x6 to 4x4 to 2x4 to 8x8,,, it has to be ,,,,way,,,, over 100 years old,,harder then concrete ,,,,I tried using the SS to rip them down ,I had the same issue , some of the wood I had to turn over and make 2 cuts ,,,,my answer was to turn the saw up just a little and feed the wood very slowly ,,make sure the wood doesnt pinch the blade as it exits the saw , use a riving knife w kick back fingers and a guard if you have one and it is possible ,,,,once you start the cut ,,dont stop , like mentioned above be aware and careful of twist and warps , I would never use a fence for the first cuts,,, avoid binding at all cost ,mark a line with a good straight edge and free hand it ,,or better yet get your straight line and work it down true with a jointer and then planer ,,then cut it on the saw ,, JMO

[ChrisNeilan]

Depending on what length you need, i would trim them to four or five feet long, joint one edge and then rip them. You need to get rid of any twist or the blade will bind- any blade will bind.