Need so advice on Mortising
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Need so advice on Mortising
My first time cutting square holes with the SS. I did know enough to start at both ends and work in, But as I worked thru the middle cutting one hole next to the other I found the chisel to drift off to the side that was already cut next to it so it tended to make the chisel drift out of proper alingment. So is the chisel dull or do I need to leave some wood between the holes then come back and clean up ? Thanks for help
Mike, Northern Ca.
Just an old logger trying to keep his feet covered in wood chips
Just an old logger trying to keep his feet covered in wood chipsI don't use the mortising attachment -so the best I can do to answer your question is refer you to this Sawdust session. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... _Index.htm
Also refer to the blackboard for how to set the drill bit in the chisel.
P.S. Did you get snow yet?
Also refer to the blackboard for how to set the drill bit in the chisel.
P.S. Did you get snow yet?
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Thanks,,,I found that link after posting the ??????. Guess I should do more searching before I ask ????? but I always look forward to people posting thier own bits and tricks. Sounds like my chisel is a little dull.
We have had snow already,,,,snowed all day Wednesday but never really stuck . My favorite time of the year, warm shop , snow covered ground
We have had snow already,,,,snowed all day Wednesday but never really stuck . My favorite time of the year, warm shop , snow covered ground
Mike, Northern Ca.
Just an old logger trying to keep his feet covered in wood chips
Just an old logger trying to keep his feet covered in wood chips
Hi,
Just in case you might need a bit more information. The shopsmith stuff I got was a long while back but it was not sharp new from them. I can't say what they have now. The cone shaped stone takes care of the inside angle and surface (older sets had two different stones as the angles were not the same on all of the chisels). The outside I feel should be polished to, and a little wax now and then to keep it from rusting. Once they are sharp they work much better.
One other thing I found out soon after starting to use them was that the table on the shopsmith 500 would tip under pressure. a 2x4 with a notch cut fits the front of the table and keeps this from happening. Shopsmith sells a leg which is adjustable for the old 500 and of course the new 505/510/520 can use the tubes and legs for support.
The PTWFE has a few things that are well worth reading over as well, they even discuss sharpening. I would hope you have a copy or two to reference. Over lapping cuts need to be at least 3/4 size, sometimes that takes some planning before hand.
Ed
Just in case you might need a bit more information. The shopsmith stuff I got was a long while back but it was not sharp new from them. I can't say what they have now. The cone shaped stone takes care of the inside angle and surface (older sets had two different stones as the angles were not the same on all of the chisels). The outside I feel should be polished to, and a little wax now and then to keep it from rusting. Once they are sharp they work much better.
One other thing I found out soon after starting to use them was that the table on the shopsmith 500 would tip under pressure. a 2x4 with a notch cut fits the front of the table and keeps this from happening. Shopsmith sells a leg which is adjustable for the old 500 and of course the new 505/510/520 can use the tubes and legs for support.
The PTWFE has a few things that are well worth reading over as well, they even discuss sharpening. I would hope you have a copy or two to reference. Over lapping cuts need to be at least 3/4 size, sometimes that takes some planning before hand.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Sharpen it up!
Grouser,
I used mine for the first time this year on a set of table legs made from white oak. First one was OK. The rest of the cuts ended up burning the drill bit in the chisel. I have to replace it now. But I found out that Rockler has a diamond sharpening stone for keeping the chisel sharp. It works great. Not too expensive either. My college cabinet class instructor says to lube the drill chisel with parafin wax to keep it working right. I will try it next time.
Are you shutting down season yet. Got your wrenches on?
Jim B. retcaptb
I used mine for the first time this year on a set of table legs made from white oak. First one was OK. The rest of the cuts ended up burning the drill bit in the chisel. I have to replace it now. But I found out that Rockler has a diamond sharpening stone for keeping the chisel sharp. It works great. Not too expensive either. My college cabinet class instructor says to lube the drill chisel with parafin wax to keep it working right. I will try it next time.
Are you shutting down season yet. Got your wrenches on?
Jim B. retcaptb-
tigris1997
- Gold Member
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 10:30 pm
- Location: Leesburg,FL
[quote="retcaptb"]Grouser,
I used mine for the first time this year on a set of table legs made from white oak. First one was OK. The rest of the cuts ended up burning the drill bit in the chisel. I have to replace it now. But I found out that Rockler has a diamond sharpening stone for keeping the chisel sharp. It works great. Not too expensive either. My college cabinet class instructor says to lube the drill chisel with parafin wax to keep it working right. I will try it next time.
Are you shutting down season yet. Got your wrenches on? ]
I found out that if the gap between the bit and the chisel is not wide enough the wood chips can not come out and it makes the tool work harder.
Just a little tip.
It doesn't work like the one used on the New Yankee Workshop!
I used mine for the first time this year on a set of table legs made from white oak. First one was OK. The rest of the cuts ended up burning the drill bit in the chisel. I have to replace it now. But I found out that Rockler has a diamond sharpening stone for keeping the chisel sharp. It works great. Not too expensive either. My college cabinet class instructor says to lube the drill chisel with parafin wax to keep it working right. I will try it next time.
Are you shutting down season yet. Got your wrenches on? ]
I found out that if the gap between the bit and the chisel is not wide enough the wood chips can not come out and it makes the tool work harder.
Just a little tip.
It doesn't work like the one used on the New Yankee Workshop!
The tips section also states you only go a 1/4 in depth at a time. I went the full 2.5 inches each hole!!!!! I also used some light wieght oil and parrifin wax to slick things up. Thanks for the help you guys.
HEY CAP,,,,I'm doing a T&D to FC,,,,,,ran a crew for a year at Ben Lomond, now I'm at a station for awhile for Amador.
HEY CAP,,,,I'm doing a T&D to FC,,,,,,ran a crew for a year at Ben Lomond, now I'm at a station for awhile for Amador.
Mike, Northern Ca.
Just an old logger trying to keep his feet covered in wood chips
Just an old logger trying to keep his feet covered in wood chips