Powerpro as shaper for beaded face frames and rabbets

[Dccarpenter]

Can the powerpro one pass shape a beaded edge for a beaded face frame or do a 1/4' by 1/4' rabbet or dado in one pass?

Considering devoting one of my Shopsmith bases to a dedicated drill press/shaper station and upgrading one of my shot headstocks to a PowerPro to power it for a few large projects coming up(small kitchen, three bath vanities).

Volume of work won't make multiple passes economical, not going to try to swing big panel bits or bullnoses with it. Just routine edgework and grooves.

Have a whole bunch of router tables, just trying to make things work in a tight shop footprint and will need something in drill press mode for the next 3 months minimum.

[sehast]

My advise is to take some test cuts and see if you are happy with the result. I have taken 1/4" depth cuts with good results on my PowerPro but that is right on the edge of acceptable performance in my opinion. Type of wood makes a big difference as well as your feed rate. Safety is another consideration when you are attempting that deep of cut. Carefully consider your setup and all the things that could go wrong.

[Dccarpenter]

Thanks for the input, I haven't pulled the trigger on the Powerpro yet. I don't need it if all I use the station for is a drill press but if I can do some rudimentary shaping work then it will earn its keep.

Majority of the cuts for my new place will be in poplar and pine so pretty easy stuff to work, just a lot of it. Occasional teak work and oak work can tolerate two passes though I find the red oak shapes as easy as the pine most of the time.

I usually use an applied bottom and side mount ball bearing slides on my drawer boxes but may rabbet a bunch of stock for mitered doors and frames on this project. Have a truckload of featherboards and hold downs so about as safe as I can be.

[redleg]

I've had a Power Pro Mark 7 for about 5 years. The only real problem I've had with it was an overheat shutdown on one occasion making a one inch oak accessory shelf that goes on the front of the Shopsmith. I probably could have avoided it by using a drill bit to hog out some material first instead of using just router bits. It makes an excellent shaper (three wings instead of the two on a router bit means more cuts). I haven't seen any problem using cabinet rail and stile router or shaper bits on 3/4 inch oak or poplar cabinets. You may not be able to feed as fast as with a 3.5 hp router. I haven't had to make multiple pass cuts for cabinets or beaded trim work. I don't do production work but I have made several sets of cabinets. I remodeled and sold two houses since I bought the Mark 7. You need a complete Mark 7 to really take advantage of under table shaping not just a headstock.

[Dccarpenter]

Thanks for the great feedback sounds like it will do the trick for me.

I'll definitely upgrade to a 520 fence setup at some point but for the time being I'll actually be shaping from above the table in drill press mode so better tables won't really factor in. I have multiple router tables for the stuff that really needs under the table.

[benush26]

You don’t mention if you have a 220v outlet available, but if you do, I would advise running the PowerPro at 220. I think you will find the added HP helps with single pass stock removal, especially with the hardwoods.

Be well,
Ben

[Dccarpenter]

I actually have a 220v outlet accessible, a nice option I had forgotten about for Powerpro.

Going to call Shopsmith tomorrow and see what the lead time is in getting a Powerpro headstock to met.

[beeg]

I think I wood go with multiple passes to avoid chip out and rough cuts.