10ER repair

[bcralph]

i have inherited a shopsmith 10ER and it was actually my main table saw until i acquired a new saw. i now want to use the other options of the shopsmith but as i was cleaning it up and checking everything out i found that the quill is stuck and will not move in and out the way it should. anyone have any suggestions on how to take this apart to clean up and get moving again?

[jsburger]

I would start with a good application of penetrating oil. I use Kroil. Apply it to the quill body, quill lock and quill pinion shaft. Do this from both the outside and the inside of the head stock.

[bcralph]

i will give that a shot tonight, took quite a bit to move parts on this since it was only ever in one position. between some oil and no seize i was able to get the headstock off last night and remove the motor. the inside looked like it was full of grease and dust but i will be able to get a better view later. i have a feeling i will be replacing bearings as well

[jsburger]

i will give that a shot tonight, took quite a bit to move parts on this since it was only ever in one position. between some oil and no seize i was able to get the headstock off last night and remove the motor. the inside looked like it was full of grease and dust but i will be able to get a better view later. i have a feeling i will be replacing bearings as well

I always replace the bearings. Remember, that machine is close to 70 years old. I use the original Fafnir bearings. They are a little bit more expensive but in my opinion one should never skimp on bearings. When you order the bearings just specify that you want the original Fafnir bearing not a suitable sub. Timken owns the Fafnir brand now so the bearing may come in a Timken box but the bearing itself will still say Fafnir. I buy my bearings from A & W Bearing in Dallas. That is where Skip Campbell the 10ER guru and owner of the Yahoo 10ER group buys his bearings. Their prices are totally in line with other places I have checked.

[bcralph]

I was able to remove the side with the spring that was full of dust leaving hardly any room for the spring to move but i still am unable to rotate the gear inside still. i also have a screw that i have yet to be able to budge, still not sure how i am going to get that loose without drilling it out. but it gives me something to do so i can have a working machine to do some projects i have been thinking about. Time and patience will help

[JPG]

I was able to remove the side with the spring that was full of dust leaving hardly any room for the spring to move but i still am unable to rotate the gear inside still. i also have a screw that i have yet to be able to budge, still not sure how i am going to get that loose without drilling it out. but it gives me something to do so i can have a working machine to do some projects i have been thinking about. Time and patience will help

What screw is that? Drilling out is a last gasp resort.

[bcralph]

a set screw on a retaining collar, it was stripped and ended up hammering a star bit inside and got it loose that way. still working on getting things loose since it looks like rust has gotten to quite a bit of the parts

[bcralph]

i ended up with 1 casualty, turns out the collar was cracked and is now on my list of parts to purchase. seems previous owner had some type of filler in one of the set screws for reasons unknown and ended putting a crack in it when trying to remove. otherwise things are going well getting the headstock apart and cleaned up. Lots of crap inside and surface rust between parts that prevented them from coming apart easily.

[skou]

Some of the not normally used set screws were filled
with putty, from the factory. This may be one.

For the best rust cutter, use a cheap trans fluid, mixed
50/50 with acetone. Better and cheaper than Kroil, wd 40,
or even Boeshield. (Boeshield is a rust preventer, not a
rust remover.) Yes, it did start out at Boeing.)

A LONG time ago, I worked for the largest hamburger
stand, in the West. McDonald's Douglas. (Really, McDonell
Douglas) BEFORE Boeing bought them out. We used Boeshield
under sealed body panels, to prevent corrosion. Wish THEY
had used it, on the Aloha Airlines 737 Convertible model.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aloha_Airlines_Flight_243

steve

[bcralph]

Thank you for the tip. i will definitely try that out.