Just tried the pneumatic sanding tube.

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kalynzoo
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Just tried the pneumatic sanding tube.

Post by kalynzoo »

I started working on the rocking horse again, its been a few day. I realized that sanding the curves on 2in walnut would be a real challenge. So I ordered the pneumatic sanding tube for the SS. Yes, I first checked to make sure it was in stock, it was, and I received it in less than a week. Since I have a few days before my surgery, I gave it a whirl this afternoon. What a great way to sand curves. I should be able to get some nice smooth contours on the horse. It may take awhile, as the family has a baby shower planned for this weekend, and one of the daughters has a birthday this weekend. So I'll get to play again tomorrow, and again when I can get out to the shop after the knee replacement, hopefully in a week or so. Anyway, I really like the pneumatic sanding system. It did take a few tries to find a air fitting that would permit me to fill the tube from the compressor. It really is a short airvalve, but that was expressed in the sawdust session. One more toy for the shop.
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
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Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Just remember to round over any sharp corners. What kind of finish are you going to use?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
kalynzoo
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Post by kalynzoo »

Probably will finish the walnut with a few coats of Danish oil, then buff and finish with wax. It creates a high polish finish, it is safe (non-toxic), on hard wood it is durable, and a wax finish is easy to repair. Down side is that wax will water spot, and needs some care.
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
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Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
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reible
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Post by reible »

Hi,

Speaking of the sander here is another reference post about the problem with filling it.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=571

I didn't see Nicks video on it but it is a tool worth having, I know it has come in hand several times since I've owned it.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
kalynzoo
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Post by kalynzoo »

I thought about a valve extender, I have a few in the motorhome (someplace). However, one of my double sided truck tire inflaters has a small end that fits ok. I noted from the sawdust video that you need to take off the end connectors to inflate, but that is no big deal. It is certainly no more difficult than putting sandpaper on a split drum attachment. The kind with the metal tube in the slot to hold the paper on. The tube drops out during use, and the paper starts flapping, and you have to go through setup again. No, this is better.
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
twalz68225
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Post by twalz68225 »

Good luck with the knee replacement. I had mine done 4 weeks ago yesterday.

The first 10 or 11 days were not fun.....but has gotten progressively better ever since. I still have a bit of swelling and soreness but much less pain than before the surgery. I hope to be playing golf again in 2 - 3 more weeks.
Tom
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woodburner
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Post by woodburner »

Just thought I'd pop in and let you know about a couple of other pneumatic sanding drums/tubes I use when making rocking animals.

I bought two different sized hand-held pneumatic sanding drums (yes, I said hand-held) from Grizzly woodworking tools. They look just like the one that attaches on the SS. The difference is they have a handle on one end that spins with the help of bearings and the other end can attach to a drill, small die ginder, etc. I attach and use mine with a speed adjustable hand-held peumatic drill/grinder. They work great. I clamp my workpieces to my woodworking bench and off I go sanding and shaping the pieces.

I also use a free-standing JET buffer/sander for the smaller pieces. It really comes in handy when you have several small pieces to do. I have two different sized drums attached with different grits of paper, which helps with time when it comes time for putting them together and finishing.

I also recently purchased the Sand-Flee which allows me to sand the faces of the workpieces before gluing-up and shaping with the other sanding drums.

I always make a few rocking animals for the grandkids and nephews each holiday season. Every year it seems one or two of them need a larger animal as they out grow them. The smaller rockers get passed down to the littler ones as they grow each year.

Have fun making your rocking horse and I hope you get well soon so you can get back to your shop.
Sawdust & Shavings,
Woodburner:o
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john
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Post by john »

Gary:

I don't know if you intend to do this, but on the rocking horses I made, (all 1" thick), I used a 1/4" roundover router bit and rounded all the edges. In my opinion, it really made a difference in appearance over those I had seen with no roundovers. On 2" thick wood, you might even go to a 3/8" bit. I think this would really "round it off".

Again, all the best with the surgery.

John
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woodburner
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Post by woodburner »

john,

I believe kaly's plan is to use the pneumatic drum sander that attaches to the SS to round over the edges. You certainly can use a router, as I have done that also.

But I have found from the experience of making dozens of different kinds of animals over the years that using the air-filled sanding drum will give you a more rounded appearance, and also let you very that roundness to the size, and what part of the rocking animal you are rounding over (face, body, legs, etc.), of the pieces you are working on.

I have lots of experience in making different kinds of rocking animals, and I've tried a lot of different methods. I have found the sanding drums work best for me when it comes to rounding over the several pieces you need to make one. Several of the pieces I use are to small for router work.
Sawdust & Shavings,
Woodburner:o
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