10ER repair

[bcralph]

I have my parts on order and should have next week. i was thinking about repainting the shopsmith and get it looking new again. Any suggestions on paint and what colors to use? I would like to try and match original colors if i can. Any recommendations on what to put on the tubes to help the headstock move a little easier?

[rpd]

I have my parts on order and should have next week. i was thinking about repainting the shopsmith and get it looking new again. Any suggestions on paint and what colors to use? I would like to try and match original colors if i can. Any recommendations on what to put on the tubes to help the headstock move a little easier?

Paste wax works well on the way tubes. Don't get wax for floors, it has ingredients to make it less slippery.

I think the original colour was a Battle Ship Gray, there was probably a lot available as surplus after the war.

The original colour varied a bit over the years, some had more blue in the grey, and 65+/- years on they have all faded to some extent. Check out some of the different colour schemes other members have done in this thread.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maint ... t5497.html
I haven't re painted any of mine yet, but I am partial to the two tone themes, silver/verdigris (like the greenie's) or silver/dark grey. myself. The original colour is a bit boring.

[jsburger]

I have my parts on order and should have next week. i was thinking about repainting the shopsmith and get it looking new again. Any suggestions on paint and what colors to use? I would like to try and match original colors if i can. Any recommendations on what to put on the tubes to help the headstock move a little easier?

As Ron said, paste wax is the best.

As for paint, the best match to the original according to Skip Campbell the 10ER guru is Krylon Industrial Tough Coat. The paint is S01625 Blue/Grey and the primer for it is S00340 Grey. It is not easy to find. The big box stores do not cary it. I get mine from MSC Industrial. Their numbers for the paint are 84253772 and the primer is 02512317.

The picture is one of my restored 10ER's with that paint.

[bcralph]

Thanks for all the info, i wouldn't expect box stores to have the industrial paint. probably look into an auto parts place for something like that. Since i have time i will have to look into what colors would look good on this.

[rjent]

Thanks for all the info, i wouldn't expect box stores to have the industrial paint. probably look into an auto parts place for something like that. Since i have time i will have to look into what colors would look good on this.

Here is a video that I did showing the two that I have finished (I have two more to go). Two different (but the same ) color schemes.



There are a lot of very nicely restored 10ER's here. John Berger's in the above photo, Heathicus's machines, and of course MickyD's. MickyD left a legacy of not only what one could look like, but left a lot of tips on how to get some of the "problem areas" squared away. Have fun, they are truly great machines. I use mine almost every day.

My silver: http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maintenan ... 15205.html

My gold : http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maintenan ... 17571.html

And yes, I am proud of them ....

[bcralph]

So far all the restores i have seen have come out really nice. not much of a gold person myself but they do look GREAT. i will try to get some pictures of what i currently have not. although i have the Headstock completely apart, the rest is still togethor

[rpd]

Aurum et Argentum.

Thank you, Dick, for posting that video.

I had watched it before, but forgotten.

[bcralph]

Here is what i am working on. i will eventually need to replace the base underneath with locking wheels. This currently just rolls around and i have to chuck the wheels to prevent movement.

[chapmanruss]

Another good and cheep rust remover is vinegar. For the way tubes I have a PVC pipe just longer than the way tubes sealed on one end and slip on a cap on the other. I let them sit for two days and they come out great, ready to be polished up. I do that on my Mark V (now upgraded to a 7) using a plug on the headstock end and a pair of small wheels attached to a board which clamps to the extension table. I use very fine sand paper, 400 grit plus. The better it is the finer I start with. Use the Mark V maintenance guide for which parts to wax. It lubricates the moving parts and doesn't attract the dust like oil does as per the Model 10 manuals. I have been painting the Model 10's I restore with Rustoleum Charcoal Gray with a Matte Finish Clearcoat.

[Tazster411]

Can someone please help me figure out how to get the quill out of the Headstock. I've been all day trying to figure this out im having no luck at all. Frustrated!!!!!