Edited I'm sorry the above power supply is .6 amps I read it quickly. I'll look for more.
There was a ton of hits.
Depending on how talented you are, and so far you look like you have more than the needed ability. I would get a 50 volt power supply and try the motor. If it works then I would wire the power supply and a plug hard wired to the AC planner motor to one switch and use that as a cheap fix.
You could even use a power strip that has an on off switch.
In fact if you felt froggy you could mount the DC power supply somewhere hard wire it to the planner's existing switch cutting out the bad circuit and just use that switch with a new DC power supply. Hey for $20 it is worth the shot and I thought you said you tried the motor and it worked what did you use to try it? If that worked then use it.
Ed
tdubnik wrote:Ed when I connected the power neither motor was plugged in. When I measure the pwoer going INTO the board from the rectifer it measures 115V AC. I guess this means the rectifer is bad?
On the AC setting your meter will read both AC and DC. If you set it for DC and see nothing then the rectifier block may be bad.
Edited I'm sorry the above power supply is .6 amps I read it quickly. I'll look for more.
There was a ton of hits.
Depending on how talented you are, and so far you look like you have more than the needed ability. I would get a 50 volt power supply and try the motor. If it works then I would wire the power supply and a plug hard wired to the AC planner motor to one switch and use that as a cheap fix.
You could even use a power strip that has an on off switch.
In fact if you felt froggy you could mount the DC power supply somewhere hard wire it to the planner's existing switch cutting out the bad circuit and just use that switch with a new DC power supply. Hey for $20 it is worth the shot and I thought you said you tried the motor and it worked what did you use to try it? If that worked then use it.
Ed
Ed, I tried the motor 2 ways. First I connected it to a 12DC output that I have and the motor turns. Then I connected it to a variable DC power output I used to use for RC airplanes and it worked. I haven't tried either one of these to see if they will actually feed a board through the planer but I fear neither source I have will be adequate.
I like the model train controller idea and will check that further.
johnm wrote:On the AC setting your meter will read both AC and DC. If you set it for DC and see nothing then the rectifier block may be bad.
I will try to put together a wiring diagram and post it tomorrow. I think the problem bay not be the circuit board itself.
BTW --- I am amazed at the interest this thread has prompted and appreciate every comment that has been made. I have learned a lot just by all of the input. Thanks to everyone.
OK, reible, you asked for real world readings of a functional Motor Speed Control and I have them.
The rectifier, as John previously pointed out, is a four wire device. Two of the connectors to the rectifier are marked as AC input. The other two are marked + and -.
Measuring across the two marked with an AC sine wave and varying the speed control from slow to fast I get 57.3 VAC to 119.9VAC.
Measuring across the two marked + and - (observing proper polarity) and varying the speed from slow to fast I get 51.8 VDC to 137.1 VDC.
With a standard volt ohm meter, the DC voltage fluctuates quit a lot especially at low speeds. As the speed increases, the fluctuations tend to dampen.
Looking at the wave form with a Fluke Voltage Monitor I can see that the waveform of the AC component of the DC output is very distorted at low speeds and changes to become a pure sine at higher voltages (speeds).
This is not an expensive voltage regulated ac to dc converter.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
tdubnik wrote:I will try to put together a wiring diagram and post it tomorrow. I think the problem bay not be the circuit board itself.
BTW --- I am amazed at the interest this thread has prompted and appreciate every comment that has been made. I have learned a lot just by all of the input. Thanks to everyone.
The only load for the speed control module is the dc motor. The AC output is nothing more than a switched AC input.
Therefore, if you disconnect the DC motor and apply power and the board smokes - the problem must be on the board. When you ran your final test - was the speed module plugged into the DC motor?
btw - what is your first name tdubnik?
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:OK, reible, you asked for real world readings of a functional Motor Speed Control and I have them.
The rectifier, as John previously pointed out, is a four wire device. Two of the connectors to the rectifier are marked as AC input. The other two are marked + and -.
Measuring across the two marked with an AC sine wave and varying the speed control from slow to fast I get 57.3 VAC to 119.9VAC.
Measuring across the two marked + and - (observing proper polarity) and varying the speed from slow to fast I get 51.8 VDC to 137.1 VDC.
With a standard volt ohm meter, the DC voltage fluctuates quit a lot especially at low speeds. As the speed increases, the fluctuations tend to dampen.
Looking at the wave form with a Fluke Voltage Monitor I can see that the waveform of the AC component of the DC output is very distorted at low speeds and changes to become a pure sine at higher voltages (speeds).
This is not an expensive voltage regulated ac to dc converter.
Based upon your measurements and picture 026, what I think SS did is put a light dimmer in series with the AC input to the bridge rectifier block (seems wierd, but I suppose it would work). Since the motor turns when DC is put to it (so it works), and the board is what smokes when power is applied, I'll put my money on the rectifier block being toasted. If it fails, it will probably put a short circuit or near short circuit across the AC (marked with a sine wave) terminals. You can test that by unsoldering it from the circuit and testing the AC terminals on the rectifier block with an ohm-meter. They should be very high resistance.
The board still may be toasted, but it wasn't the cause. You can try replacing the board with a garden-variety light dimmer (it's got 2 terminals just like the board) and see what happens.
Just so we are all on the same page, and I could be wrong but if I follow the wiring in the picture I see that the AC controller is on the AC side of the circuit and outputs an AC (chopped at lower speed settings) this feeds the diode bridge. The bridge is just 4 diodes packaged together. The AC from the controller feeds the bridge, AC inputs, the DC output feeds the motor.
When measuring check to see if the meter has a setting for RMS if so set that on for readings from the AC contoller. I think this is the normal setting on most meters.
As for Dusty measurements it looks like the motor sees the 51.8 to 137.1 VDC so depending on load this sound like the area we need to be in. A little high for a 115V motor??? I would have thought they would have tried to keep the high end more like 115V but if its working so be it. It also could be that under load the real numbers go down.
So once again is this what everyone thinks this looks like?
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
