chapmanruss wrote:The Hex hole on the base/outfeed table is for using the blade guard when doing rabbits. Do the rabbits on the edge not with the board flat. It is shown in the old Jointer Manual. Safety has been a top concern at Shopsmith so they are always improving the operation of the tools to be as safe as possible. That's why they added the attached rear guard to the fence and the shaft guard. The dust chute is also a safety guard for the bottom side of the blades.
Paul - The part number in the casting is correct but I'm not sure about the other numbers.
Russ, could you clarify what I put in bold? Are you meaning to say that although rabbet cutting ("it") is shown with boards flat, that it's not recommended? I was just perusing the PTWFE that Everett uploaded and saw that they show cross cutting rabbets on the ends of boards using push blocks to hold it perpendicular to the fence. It also shows rabbet cuts with the grain that would end up being 3/8" deep and as wide as needed. Are you saying all these types of cuts should never be made with a jointer any more?
You also mentioned that you had older jointer models upgraded with current safety features. Did you only mean the finger board blade guard, or did they have a more complete kit with the "new" rear guard I'm not seeing on the website? Could you post a pic of a 4E that you've done the upgrades to, including where you had to drill and tap?
Cutting rabbets with the board flat makes no sense since the workpiece has NO support other than the area of the rabbet itself(the remainder of the work piece is flapping in the breeze).
Cutting on edge allows using the fence vertically and the in/out feed tables for bottom support.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
What JPG said about rabbits on the jointer is correct. Run the board with the edge against the table and use the fence for support as shown in figure 2-26. If you need a rabbit cut as shown in figures 2-25 and 2-27 it would be safer and more accurately done on a table saw. PTWFE 1st Edition 1953 is is not using the Magna Jointer Model 4E but it is a larger jointer with a taller fence and wider tables.
I did not do any upgrades to my Model 4E jointer, kept it "stock."
I did upgrade my 1979 Jointer with the Dust Chute Upgrade which includes the rear blade guard and shaft guard along with the Feather Board Blade Guard upgrade.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
I was using the actual book PTWFE not Everett's version which is different. He has replaced the "other brand" jointer with pictures of a Model 620 Jointer on a Mark 5. On page 84 he shows both flat and edge rabbits. Note that the flat rabbit is on a narrow board. If your board is extending out to much from the Jointer's tables you will not be able to control it very well and end up with a "bad" rabbit.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
I am having difficulty understanding why one would try to create a rabbet with the workpiece not supported on the larger face no matter how small the workpiece is. The fence provides that support when 'edge' rabbeting.
BTW the blades ends need to be in line with the edge of the outfeed table so as to help support.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The Jointer has a limit for the depth of cut of about 3/8" depending on when your Jointer was made, which affects the ability to cut some rabbits on the Jointer. But their is more than one way to cut a rabbit. As I said before cutting rabbits the table saw may be better for some of them. Remember we have a Shopsmith so there are many options available to us. Dado Blades, Router bits, Shaper cutters and more can all cut rabbits. Just use the best option for the task at hand.
