We are working on my father-in-law's SS.
The headstock wedges were tight, and would not allow it to move.
After reading on here, I determined that the front was fine, and moved in and out when turning the handle, all be it hard. As I looked at it, I realized that the back wedge was NOT moving at all.
I took the headstock off, and was able to get it front wedge moved enough that I could then beat out the back wedge.
After getting it all apart, BOTH wedges are fine (internal threads), the only issue is that the back wedge is WAY WAY too tight to fit into the bore. In fact, if I was to put it back in there, I would need a hammer to drive it in, but the front is fine.
I mic'ed out the wedges, and they both appear to be about the same size, but the bore on the back is about .015 smaller than the front. I'm assuming that both bores should be the same size.
I'd consider ordering new wedges, but I think that they would be the same size, and I've have to beat the new one in (at least on the back side), and that does us no good.
Why is it so tight on the back? Any ideas, or any ideas what to try next???
Lock wedge too tight for bore...
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Re: Lock wedge too tight for bore...
Clean out the bores with mineral spirits, then check for burrs. Also apply graphite to the threads.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Re: Lock wedge too tight for bore...
This wasn't the problem. Both bores were very clean when I took it apart, and there was no galling on either one.beeg wrote:Clean out the bores with mineral spirits, then check for burrs. Also apply graphite to the threads.
I could not fit the back side wedge in the front but could fit the front in the back.
After doing some more mic'ing, I discovered that while the bores were not the same size, the actual wedges were off by about .015 from front to back. Because the back wedge has right hand threads, I put a 3/8-16 bolt on there, cut the head off, and then slowly turned it down with a file on the drill press, since I don't have a metal lathe. Got the two wedges within about .005 of each other, and it works like a champ now!
I figured if it didn't work, I would still have to buy a new wedge, so it was worth trying!!
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Lock wedge too tight for bore...
Let's see:
Both wedges were the same size.
The rear bore was 0.015" smaller than the front.
The front wedge fits in either hole.
The rear wedge fits in neither hole.
So you made the rear wedge smaller than the front wedge and all is well.
All that does not 'compute', but glad it all worked out!
Perhaps the rear wedge was originally mic'd at the smaller end?
Both wedges were the same size.
The rear bore was 0.015" smaller than the front.
The front wedge fits in either hole.
The rear wedge fits in neither hole.
So you made the rear wedge smaller than the front wedge and all is well.
All that does not 'compute', but glad it all worked out!
Perhaps the rear wedge was originally mic'd at the smaller end?
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Lock wedge too tight for bore...
LOL...JPG wrote:Let's see:
Both wedges were the same size.
The rear bore was 0.015" smaller than the front.
The front wedge fits in either hole.
The rear wedge fits in neither hole.
So you made the rear wedge smaller than the front wedge and all is well.
All that does not 'compute', but glad it all worked out!
Perhaps the rear wedge was originally mic'd at the smaller end?
My first attempt at measuring them was not a good one, and that's where I had some of my issues.
I only had the back wedge out at that point, and did not have the handle off the front wedge. So, I was measuring all of that with it still in the headstock, and that made measuring a little more difficult.
Once I got the wingnut off, and could get the calipers on the wedge, and the bore, I could see that the wedges were the biggest culprit. The bores were only off by around .005 or so, so they were close. The bigger culprit was the rear wedge.
I don't recall the exact measurements, but the rear bore on the headstock was around 1.000. The rear wedge had spots on it that were 1.010. The front bore was around 1.005, and the wedge on the front was about .995. In the end, the rear and the front wedge are both about .995.
I should have provided all of those details in my last post.
Thanks for all suggestions and input!!!
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Lock wedge too tight for bore...
Ahhh so! Thank you for clearing it up!cadmanks wrote:JPG wrote:Let's see:
Both wedges were the same size.
The rear bore was 0.015" smaller than the front.
The front wedge fits in either hole.
The rear wedge fits in neither hole.
So you made the rear wedge smaller than the front wedge and all is well.
All that does not 'compute', but glad it all worked out!
Perhaps the rear wedge was originally mic'd at the smaller end?
LOL...
My first attempt at measuring them was not a good one, and that's where I had some of my issues.
I only had the back wedge out at that point, and did not have the handle off the front wedge. So, I was measuring all of that with it still in the headstock, and that made measuring a little more difficult.
Once I got the wingnut off, and could get the calipers on the wedge, and the bore, I could see that the wedges were the biggest culprit. The bores were only off by around .005 or so, so they were close. The bigger culprit was the rear wedge.
I don't recall the exact measurements, but the rear bore on the headstock was around 1.000. The rear wedge had spots on it that were 1.010. The front bore was around 1.005, and the wedge on the front was about .995. In the end, the rear and the front wedge are both about .995.
I should have provided all of those details in my last post.
Thanks for all suggestions and input!!!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange