Speed dial retainer spring

[LesStrawn]

OK guys or gals.
I had to replace my drive belt on my saw. Took the gear drive retainer loop off the quadrant no problem. Was able to replace the belt in 26 minutes.
Found out that my speed dial was not correct so decided to clean it.
Took the retainer loop off again with no problem. Cleaned the dial and made it shine. Put it back together. Neglected to put the speed indicator with fast up. Big mistake.
Went out this morning to try to take the retainer loop off the quadrant again. Sheaves and belt are in the "fast" position, belt close to top of "v", Now for some reason the loop with not slip over the hump of the spring. I can hold the spring down against the quadrant end with one hand, pull the loop to the hump, but can't get it to "jump the hump"
I don't want to take out the dial mechanism without first undoing the retainer.
Any suggestions, or instructions?

[RobertTaylor]

Put your sanding disk on and turn it by hand to move the belt down in the pulley to get more room to move the loop. Hope this makes sense.

[JPG]

First, the dial 'indicator' only means something IF it is correctly synchronized with the porkchop. From your description it appears that syncronization is missing.

Further if the motor belt is riding close to the periphery of the idler shaft pulley, the pork chop is near max "SLOW" position.

So do as was just suggested[while rotating quill shaft by hand](run the porkchop towards max fast - there is a hard stop). That drops the belt into the pulley and moves the control sheave(and loop) closer to the porkchop.

Now about dial syncronization - It ain't wrong UNLESS you removed the crank knob and rotated the ring. I do not know why you removed the loop unless it was for belt replacement, and not for dial cleaning.

Since you now have the pork chop against the high speed stop, again remove the crank knob, rotate the dial til it indicates "FAST", reattach the crank knob and all is back to 'normal'.

I assume you did not do anything to change the stop.

Please notice I did not say to slip the loop off the porkchop. Indeed all you need to do is get the porkchop against the high speed stop and align the indicator ring.

Hope this makes sense - if not, OVER.

[everettdavis]

Go to http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 90#p185690

On the main page BELOW the My Google Drive link you will find some files.

Download and read the PDF from my late friend Bill Mayo who passed away one year ago today. It is an excellent document and tells you everything you need.

Bill Mayo - Mark V Headstock Improvement - Repair Kit for Speed Control and Eccentric Bushing v1.01 13 Jun 2016.pdf

Also below that follow the Mark V Headstock rev. 3.0.2 to the page to find PDF

Complete Headstock V3.0.2.pdf. find the spring Item 73 on the drawing. Yours should resemble that otherwise you have an older A style headstock with a metal flat piece of spring steel.

Bill Mayo's write up will cover what you need.

Everett

[LesStrawn]

I have it on as I figured that was the best way to turn the shaft.

[LesStrawn]

Yes, I had removed the whole dial from the housing to clean it all and had the ring off.
I thought that with the belt towards the outer edge of the sheaves that that is the fast position. Do I have it backwards?
No, I did not change the stop setting.

[beeg]

Yep that's backwards.

[LesStrawn]

Yep that's backwards.

So to make sure I completely understand you.
When the sheaves are wide open, the speed is fast.
When they are close together, making the belt ride at the "outer limits" then that is the slow speed.

[JPG]

Yep that's backwards.

So to make sure I completely understand you.
When the sheaves are wide open, the speed is fast.
When they are close together, making the belt ride at the "outer limits" then that is the slow speed.

Correct!

Realize when the idler pulley is closed(belt riding at the 'outer limits'), the motor pulley is 'open'(riding near the center). Since the belt is traveling at the same speed on both pulleys, the ratio of effective pulley diameters is M/I where 'M' is motor pulley and 'I' is idler pulley. The resultant idler pulley rpm is 3450 x M/I. The quill rpm is 1/1.6 the idler rpm. All that approximately results in a 700 - 5200 rpm range of the quill shaft.

[LesStrawn]

You're so knowledgeable, I have one other question for you.
The book says to use a tach to measure speeds. I know on a car the distributor and a spark plug are the contact points. Where on this motor does one put the probes? (My dad would have known the answer, but I was too young and dumb to pay attention!)