Chisel Sharpening
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Tormek T-7
Stopped by the local Rockler store last night and got talking to a couple of the employees about sharpening. They all use the Tormek both at the store and in their home shops. Any opinions on the T-7? I know it is rather pricey. But if it is a quality tool that will last me for years, I figure that is okay. I have the WS2000 for general sharpening of yard tools, hand chisels, etc. But have had little luck sharpening lathe chisels satisfactorily.
I also have the SS Sharpening Guide on (back)order. Just looking at all of the options.
Thanks for any feedback.
I also have the SS Sharpening Guide on (back)order. Just looking at all of the options.
Thanks for any feedback.
Hoagie - B.P.O.E. - NRA Benefactor
Mark V 520, Band Saw, Jointer, Planer, Belt Sander, Biscuit Joiner, RingMaster
Delta Dust Collector, Jet AFS
Mark V 520, Band Saw, Jointer, Planer, Belt Sander, Biscuit Joiner, RingMaster
Delta Dust Collector, Jet AFS
All generalizations are dangerous. Even this one.
- curiousgeorge
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 880
- Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Hoagie,
I would say if you are thinking of buying the T7 just for lathe chisels, then you are wasting your money. As I stated previously "You Can't beat the Wolverine System" for ease of use and repeatability. Take the money you save and buy some more Shopsmith attachments.
I would say if you are thinking of buying the T7 just for lathe chisels, then you are wasting your money. As I stated previously "You Can't beat the Wolverine System" for ease of use and repeatability. Take the money you save and buy some more Shopsmith attachments.
George
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
Actually if I do decide to go with the T-7 I expect it will quickly become my sharpening tool of choice, with the WS2000 being passed on to some lucky Craig's List reader. The T-7 would definitely not be used just for lathe chisels. I can see where my original post may have given that impression.curiousgeorge wrote:Hoagie,
I would say if you are thinking of buying the T7 just for lathe chisels, then you are wasting your money. As I stated previously "You Can't beat the Wolverine System" for ease of use and repeatability. Take the money you save and buy some more Shopsmith attachments.
Also, I do not currently own a bench grinder, so I'd have to purchase that as well.
Bench Grinder $100
Wolverine $88
2 Wheels $140
Vari-Grind, Skew Jig, Dressing Jig, etc. $200
Shipping $50-100 or more?
Hmmmm. Decisions. Decisions.
BTW, Rockler is supposed to have the Tormek 2006 on sale for $299 starting in their next ad.
Hoagie - B.P.O.E. - NRA Benefactor
Mark V 520, Band Saw, Jointer, Planer, Belt Sander, Biscuit Joiner, RingMaster
Delta Dust Collector, Jet AFS
Mark V 520, Band Saw, Jointer, Planer, Belt Sander, Biscuit Joiner, RingMaster
Delta Dust Collector, Jet AFS
All generalizations are dangerous. Even this one.
dickg1 wrote: The one thing that keeps me wondering is if the hair will grow back on my left arm after testing the edge of those knives and chisels.
Dick
Wow Dick I am impreswsed with your wisdom. I am glad you didn't test them with the harir of the head
Seriously I am impressed with all of the comments on sharpening. I have the shopsmith sharpening jigs, the wolverine and a fine bench grinder. Okay the bench grinder isn't so fine. When I turn I often wish for something quick and simple. I confess to being one dummy who is challanged to sharpen successfully with the shopsmith system or any other wet or dry system I have ever tried. I do have decent luck with wolverine. Thanks again for all of the good info. fjimp
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Hair preservation method to determine sharp tools
Dick - here's a trick I learned during wood carving classes. You don't need to shave off a bunch of hair to test sharpness. Use the blade to isolate one (only) hair on the back of your hand in the thumb/wrist area. Tighten the skin by bending your wrist/thumb, then with the blade, press straight down on the isolated hair. Be careful, don't slice!!!dickg1 wrote:The one thing that keeps me wondering is if the hair will grow back on my left arm after testing the edge of those knives and chisels.
Dick

If your hair is back and thick - this works the best! Now that my hair has grown grey and thin this is harder to do, but still do-able.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Thanks for the tip Chuck.
BUT I'm not clear how to do this. Is the hair between the blade and the skin?
BUT I'm not clear how to do this. Is the hair between the blade and the skin?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Yes! Use your skin as a cutting block, but no slicing - just pushing downward. If the hair just bends or kinks - the blade isn't sharp yet.beeg wrote:Thanks for the tip Chuck.
BUT I'm not clear how to do this. Is the hair between the blade and the skin?
I've never tried this, but you could pluck a hair, lay it on a soft surface, like a handball and do the same thing. Maybe it would also work by laying a hair on a piece of MDF. I've never seen it done on a hard surface. Let me know if it works!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
charlese wrote:Dick - here's a trick I learned during wood carving classes. You don't need to shave off a bunch of hair to test sharpness. Use the blade to isolate one (only) hair on the back of your hand in the thumb/wrist area. Tighten the skin by bending your wrist/thumb, then with the blade, press straight down on the isolated hair. Be careful, don't slice!!!If your knife/chisel is really sharp, the hair will pop off. The pushing action shouldn't cut your skin. If you are good at this - a long hair will actually last for two or three poppings.
If your hair is back and thick - this works the best! Now that my hair has grown grey and thin this is harder to do, but still do-able.
Thanks charlese, I'll try this, carefully, when my (white) hand and arm fur grows back.
Dick
Thank You again Chuck, I just wanted to be SURE before I tried it.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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