BTW, I believe it is spelled with two r's. And I appreciate the link to 1 1/4" arbor holes.Forest Saw Blades
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perryobear
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Hi Pat,
Back to your original question about stiffeners.
Are you presently using stiffeners with your 1-1/4" bore thin kerf blade?
If not, why are you concerned with going to the 5/8" bore? The outer diameters of my 1-1/4" and 5/8" SS 510 Saw arbors are the same and I would think should supply similar blade support.
If you are thinking about using a dado arbor to mount a saw blade, be careful. We talked about this in another thread, but you can get into trouble trying to properly locate the blade in your table insert without causing interference with the end of the Dado arbor and the table's tiebar guard (see the thread titled "Dado" in the General Woodworking section for further discussion).
Dennis
Back to your original question about stiffeners.
Are you presently using stiffeners with your 1-1/4" bore thin kerf blade?
If not, why are you concerned with going to the 5/8" bore? The outer diameters of my 1-1/4" and 5/8" SS 510 Saw arbors are the same and I would think should supply similar blade support.
If you are thinking about using a dado arbor to mount a saw blade, be careful. We talked about this in another thread, but you can get into trouble trying to properly locate the blade in your table insert without causing interference with the end of the Dado arbor and the table's tiebar guard (see the thread titled "Dado" in the General Woodworking section for further discussion).
Dennis
No, actually I wasn't using stiffners. After reading the Forrest Web site, it sounds as if I should have been. My original question was based on the thought that I wouldn't be able to find that blade in 1-1/4" bore. But, it sounds as if, either way, I should be using stiffeners on the thin kerf blade.
Pat
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
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dusty
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
shydragon wrote:No, actually I wasn't using stiffners. After reading the Forrest Web site, it sounds as if I should have been. My original question was based on the thought that I wouldn't be able to find that blade in 1-1/4" bore. But, it sounds as if, either way, I should be using stiffeners on the thin kerf blade.
I have my doubts. If your cuts are as clean as you describe in a previous post - what do you expect to gain by using stiffeners?
Besides, is the Shopsmith arbor itself not somewhat of a stiffener when contrasted to the typical nut and washer used to attach saw bands?
If you do plan to use a stiffener, be aware that it will not fit onto the standard Shopsmith saw arbor.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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Ed in Tampa
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I'm probably going to get into trouble with this but.....
I understand wanting a great cut, I understand not wanting to have to burn marks, nicks, tear out and etc. But I find it hard to pay anywhere from twice to four times the price to get "perfect" cuts.
My belief is a jointer must be a integral part of a workshop. And yes you can can achieve "glue" cuts with more expensive blades but are we talking production or craftsmanship. I have seen many joints that range from lousy to invisible. I'm of the belief invisible joints are only accomplished with jointers. On the flip side the lousy joints were usually done using a dirt cheap blades on poorly setup saws.
Okay my point. Most of us aren't doing production we are in the shop to enjoy ourselves but yet accomplish something. Do we really need ultra priced blades that produce "glue line" edges or do we need to use our jointer more?
Frankly I'm not happy with glue line edges, if I want them I will buy the piece from the production shop. What I want is invisible edge (want and get are two different things I must say ) so I use my jointer.
To me Shopsmith blades are excellent, I don't need to buy more expensive and most that are less expensive have caused me grief at one time or another so I simply don't bother with them.
I guess what I'm really saying is, "Are we getting caught up in advertizing hype?" "Yes I know it can be proven to be factual but is it proven to be needed?"
I say this because I see the economy going south and I believe the biggest reason is we have become a nation that has lost it's reason, instead of spending wisely we have demanded and bought the "best" (biggest, fastest, most powerful, cost the most) ignoring the price. Well we are all now beginning to see that "price" as things come tumbling down.
I understand wanting a great cut, I understand not wanting to have to burn marks, nicks, tear out and etc. But I find it hard to pay anywhere from twice to four times the price to get "perfect" cuts.
My belief is a jointer must be a integral part of a workshop. And yes you can can achieve "glue" cuts with more expensive blades but are we talking production or craftsmanship. I have seen many joints that range from lousy to invisible. I'm of the belief invisible joints are only accomplished with jointers. On the flip side the lousy joints were usually done using a dirt cheap blades on poorly setup saws.
Okay my point. Most of us aren't doing production we are in the shop to enjoy ourselves but yet accomplish something. Do we really need ultra priced blades that produce "glue line" edges or do we need to use our jointer more?
Frankly I'm not happy with glue line edges, if I want them I will buy the piece from the production shop. What I want is invisible edge (want and get are two different things I must say
) so I use my jointer. To me Shopsmith blades are excellent, I don't need to buy more expensive and most that are less expensive have caused me grief at one time or another so I simply don't bother with them.
I guess what I'm really saying is, "Are we getting caught up in advertizing hype?" "Yes I know it can be proven to be factual but is it proven to be needed?"
I say this because I see the economy going south and I believe the biggest reason is we have become a nation that has lost it's reason, instead of spending wisely we have demanded and bought the "best" (biggest, fastest, most powerful, cost the most) ignoring the price. Well we are all now beginning to see that "price" as things come tumbling down.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
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dusty
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
reible wrote:"The single best upgrade to any saw is a better blade."
Ed Reible
Ed
Ed Reible, what kind of saw blades do you use when you want a job to turn out "perfect"?
I just might buy one. I do a lot of jobs that don't turn out so good and maybe I need to buy a more expensive blade.
I am using a Freud and two (2) Shopsmith combination thin kerf's. They all seem to be about equal to me. All three have been sharpened by Forrest.
I have three other blades in the shop but I use those only for cutting up scrap wood, pallet materials, etc.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty,
From what I have hear and seen information on the Forrest blades are really top quality. Of couse they are also expensive. I have always wanted one and have it on my list "for next year" for several years now. It seems I'm always out of money before I get to that part of the list.
What I have found is that company called Infinity that I purchased a "test" blade from. The blade I got was a thin kerf ripping blade and it was about the same price as the freud blade it replaced. I was impressed enough to get a second rip blade(.125"). Then a combo blade.... and well like I said I was impressed.
If you go to the site and look for the "super general" you can read about the blade they have which has a list price of $109.90 but always seems to be on sale for $99.90 now. When it came out it was about $10 cheaper on sale. This maybe second to the Forrest but it will very close (without a Forrest to compare with in my shop I can not be sure of the differences). Anyway IMO you will see a difference between $50 blades and $100 blades... if you can't then I guess there would be no reason to spend the extra money. I see the difference and I spend the money.
site: www.infinitytools.com
The super general has a lot of features and quite the cut. It is inline with the price of the newer freud blade, that being just under $100. I don't have the freud blade but I would guess it is also very nearly the same cut. This price is not far from the Forrest blade so ???? Maybe the Forrest blade is worth getting????
For general purpose woodworking I use the "combo-max" a mid $60 blade also from Infinity. I also have several Freud blades I use and I have had good results from them. (If you sign up at infinity they send sales often so I'd wait for the sales).
I also have some more cheaper blades I use for certain projects where I don't think I need or want to waste the more expensive blades.
************************************
Don't read this if you love your shopsmith blades
************************************
I have owned only two shopsmith carbide blades (later 1980's/early 90's vintage so they may be very different then todays blade). One lost a carbide tip, and no it was not being abused. The second was never right from day one and should have been returned... it was somehow out of something. It cut poorly and had an odd noise when running and vibrations when cutting. They were not the only blades I had but were the only two that acted the way they did. They are also the only 2 blades I have ever put it the trash, and I mean ever. I have never purchase a shopsmith blade since and it is unlikely I will. So that is my story about shopsmith blades.
************************************
OK you can start reading again, just in time to find me heading off to read some more sketchup for dummies.
Ed
From what I have hear and seen information on the Forrest blades are really top quality. Of couse they are also expensive. I have always wanted one and have it on my list "for next year" for several years now. It seems I'm always out of money before I get to that part of the list.
What I have found is that company called Infinity that I purchased a "test" blade from. The blade I got was a thin kerf ripping blade and it was about the same price as the freud blade it replaced. I was impressed enough to get a second rip blade(.125"). Then a combo blade.... and well like I said I was impressed.
If you go to the site and look for the "super general" you can read about the blade they have which has a list price of $109.90 but always seems to be on sale for $99.90 now. When it came out it was about $10 cheaper on sale. This maybe second to the Forrest but it will very close (without a Forrest to compare with in my shop I can not be sure of the differences). Anyway IMO you will see a difference between $50 blades and $100 blades... if you can't then I guess there would be no reason to spend the extra money. I see the difference and I spend the money.
site: www.infinitytools.com
The super general has a lot of features and quite the cut. It is inline with the price of the newer freud blade, that being just under $100. I don't have the freud blade but I would guess it is also very nearly the same cut. This price is not far from the Forrest blade so ???? Maybe the Forrest blade is worth getting????
For general purpose woodworking I use the "combo-max" a mid $60 blade also from Infinity. I also have several Freud blades I use and I have had good results from them. (If you sign up at infinity they send sales often so I'd wait for the sales).
I also have some more cheaper blades I use for certain projects where I don't think I need or want to waste the more expensive blades.
************************************
Don't read this if you love your shopsmith blades
************************************
I have owned only two shopsmith carbide blades (later 1980's/early 90's vintage so they may be very different then todays blade). One lost a carbide tip, and no it was not being abused. The second was never right from day one and should have been returned... it was somehow out of something. It cut poorly and had an odd noise when running and vibrations when cutting. They were not the only blades I had but were the only two that acted the way they did. They are also the only 2 blades I have ever put it the trash, and I mean ever. I have never purchase a shopsmith blade since and it is unlikely I will. So that is my story about shopsmith blades.
************************************
OK you can start reading again, just in time to find me heading off to read some more sketchup for dummies.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
I like infinitytools and they are located right here in Tampa so I can drop in at any time. I'm a totally firm believer in their router bits, but I have never used one of their saw blades.
But I think my point is if your going to joint the cut and assuming there is no physical defect in the cut that jointing will not remove why is the cut quality so important to pay top dollar for the blade?
Again if you running production where time saved is money made and you can bypass jointing with a glue line cut blade then it would make sense.
But I joint my cuts. First I like to joint exposed surfaces because a perfectly adjusted joint will produce a near perfect edge that becomes invisible in most joints. If the edge is exposed then the jointed edge is better than accomplished with 220 sanding which is what I sand to.
Ed
But I think my point is if your going to joint the cut and assuming there is no physical defect in the cut that jointing will not remove why is the cut quality so important to pay top dollar for the blade?
Again if you running production where time saved is money made and you can bypass jointing with a glue line cut blade then it would make sense.
But I joint my cuts. First I like to joint exposed surfaces because a perfectly adjusted joint will produce a near perfect edge that becomes invisible in most joints. If the edge is exposed then the jointed edge is better than accomplished with 220 sanding which is what I sand to.
Ed
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!