510 to 520 rip fence upgrade

[CharlieM]

Recently purchased the 520 rip fence upgrade for my 1986 510 SS. I got all the parts out and inventoried and all looked good. My issue is the description of attaching the new rails to the main table do not match my table. The instructions start by removing the the bolts and 'keps' nuts from the old rails. My rails are mounted to the table with screws through threaded holes in the table itself. I got everything off, but now the middle hole of the new rails has nothing to screw into. Anyone else run into this issue.

I have just joined this forum and looking forward getting information.

[algale]

Welcome. The 510 came in two versions and the rails were held on differently. The 520 upgrade kit comes in two versions to accommodate these differences. I suspect you have the wrong version.

The two different upgrade versions are described here. https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... ofence.htm

[dusty]

If you have all of the 510 rails removed from the tables and you do in fact have 510 tables, then a set of 520 rails will mount to the tables. This is done using bolts, spacers and nuts.

You said spacing of the center hole is your issue. I translate that to mean you have no issue with the extension/floating tables. Correct me if I am wrong.

Moving on to the Main Table. The holes are not evening spaced. That is to say the distance from the center hole to the left hole is different than from the center hole to the right hole. Flip the rail from end to end and check spacing. Make certain that you are not swapping front rail for rear rail.

Main Table ONLY.png (88.67 KiB) Viewed 8168 times

[JPG]

You have the earlier version of a 510.

You have a couple of decisions to make.

Drill mounting hole in table where the 520 rail center mounting hole is located.

Drill hole in rail where the center mounting hole is located on the table.

Choose to keep tapped holes(and tap 2 new holes) or drill out all 6 holes.

I believe retaining the tapped holes is possible with the 520. Doing so with the later version 510 rails required the holes be drilled out and kepnuts used. That is why kepnuts are still part of the 520 design.

One caveat is that the tapped oles do not allow minor alignment adjustment of the vertical positioning of the rails on the table edge.

Also later versions of the tables have boss area at both center hole locations. If yours doesnot have the extra boss, I would alter the center hole location on the rails.


IIWM I would first attempt the new rail hole option and only drill out the tapped holes iff that did not work out. Drilling the rails accurately is much easier than drilling/tapping new holes in the table edge.

The choice is yours.

[chapmanruss]

Did you buy your upgrade new from Shopsmith? If so contact them and you may be able to get the correct set. If you bought it used you will have to decide if you want to follow the previous suggestions.

[CharlieM]

You have the earlier version of a 510.

You have a couple of decisions to make.

Drill mounting hole in table where the 520 rail center mounting hole is located.

Drill hole in rail where the center mounting hole is located on the table.

Choose to keep tapped holes(and tap 2 new holes) or drill out all 6 holes.

I believe retaining the tapped holes is possible with the 520. Doing so with the later version 510 rails required the holes be drilled out and kepnuts used. That is why kepnuts are still part of the 520 design.

One caveat is that the tapped oles do not allow minor alignment adjustment of the vertical positioning of the rails on the table edge.

Also later versions of the tables have boss area at both center hole locations. If yours doesnot have the extra boss, I would alter the center hole location on the rails.


IIWM I would first attempt the new rail hole option and only drill out the tapped holes iff that did not work out. Drilling the rails accurately is much easier than drilling/tapping new holes in the table edge.

The choice is yours.

I decided to go with drill and tap option and that worked just fine and the rip fence is adjusted and working properly....As a side note, I followed SS procedure of checking the S/N and then ordering the correct kit. My machine was built in 86 according to the SN . My belief is SS shipped the wrong kit.

Thanks for everyone's ideas and replies.

[JPG]

You have the earlier version of a 510.

You have a couple of decisions to make.

Drill mounting hole in table where the 520 rail center mounting hole is located.

Drill hole in rail where the center mounting hole is located on the table.

Choose to keep tapped holes(and tap 2 new holes) or drill out all 6 holes.

I believe retaining the tapped holes is possible with the 520. Doing so with the later version 510 rails required the holes be drilled out and kepnuts used. That is why kepnuts are still part of the 520 design.

One caveat is that the tapped oles do not allow minor alignment adjustment of the vertical positioning of the rails on the table edge.

Also later versions of the tables have boss area at both center hole locations. If yours doesnot have the extra boss, I would alter the center hole location on the rails.


IIWM I would first attempt the new rail hole option and only drill out the tapped holes iff that did not work out. Drilling the rails accurately is much easier than drilling/tapping new holes in the table edge.

The choice is yours.

I decided to go with drill and tap option and that worked just fine and the rip fence is adjusted and working properly....As a side note, I followed SS procedure of checking the S/N and then ordering the correct kit. My machine was built in 86 according to the SN . My belief is SS shipped the wrong kit.

Thanks for everyone's ideas and replies.

IIRC 86 was the year it changed. So they may not have accurate sn # of the transition???