Routine Maintenance and Lubrication

[WileyCoyote]

Since it's way too cold to work in the shop and I have some time I decided I would do some much needed cleaning and lubrication on the two SS's. I have always followed the recommendation of 4 or more drops of lubricant for the sheaves but in reviewing some older threads I came across one where the Bill Mayo recommended placing the unit in drill press mode and using upwards of 20-40 drops of oil in each and only oiling once a year for most users (not daily users). I have also seen JPEG comment on generously oiling them and that 4 drops is no where near enough.

Does anyone else oil their machines this much, and if so, doesn't it leave quite a bit of residue to build up in the parts and pieces in the headstock?

BTW, I plan to generously apply at least 30 drops to each anyway. I would never second guess a master, like Mr. Mayo was.

[BuckeyeDennis]

I've tried it, and it was indeed pretty messy. Follow the link below for my thoughts and experience on the matter.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 92#p252992

[WileyCoyote]

Thanks, Dennis. I must have missed your post in my search. Sounds like a mess and I am glad you tried it before I did.

Like your other post, Nick Engler also mentioned oiling the speed control worm gear in his video and recommended silicone and I think graphite, too. Sadly that is something I have never lubricated on purpose but will from now on. Thanks for the tip.

[everettdavis]

I agree that oiling the sheaves frequently is essential. One other consideration is the operating environment you run in.

Sawdust, other dust and potential contaminants from what you are cutting (sheetrock by one owner) will have a greater effect to gum up the works.

Proper air flow and the best dust collection will yield the best results for the Shopsmith, and most importantly.... YOU. You breathe the same air.

If the Shopsmith is breathing it in, so are you unless you have some form of PPE (dust masks are helpful even in well ventilated areas) as air flow can change with the opening of a door, or the wind changes directions.

So even if you use PPE, use dust extraction as much as possible to reduce what gets sucked into the headstock by the motor attempting to cool itself.

And of course, inspect and lubricate as required for your workload.

Everett

[dusty]

Since it's way too cold to work in the shop and I have some time I decided I would do some much needed cleaning and lubrication on the two SS's. I have always followed the recommendation of 4 or more drops of lubricant for the sheaves but in reviewing some older threads I came across one where the Bill Mayo recommended placing the unit in drill press mode and using upwards of 20-40 drops of oil in each and only oiling once a year for most users (not daily users). I have also seen JPEG comment on generously oiling them and that 4 drops is no where near enough.

Does anyone else oil their machines this much, and if so, doesn't it leave quite a bit of residue to build up in the parts and pieces in the headstock?

BTW, I plan to generously apply at least 30 drops to each anyway. I would never second guess a master, like Mr. Mayo was.

I agree that 4 drops is not enough but I also know from years of practice that you don't need to soak it in oil. Since you are not in the throws of a project - oil today, again tomorrow and repeat same until you are satisfied.

[Danimal713]

I have been a Shopsmith user/owner for over 40 years now and use 5 regularly in my shop. I also have been repairing/refurbishing them over 16 years now. I agree 4-5 drops is not enough unless oiling several days apart. I squeeze about 5-10 drops then let it soak in, then squeeze some more. I also agree 30-40 drops is too much at one time- the excess will come out somewhere and collect dirt/dust and make a nice paste. Shopsmith literature says lubricate every 10 hours of run time- or if machine has not been used for a long time.

As for lubrication of other moving parts, I avoid silicon because if any gets on wood and then a finish is applied, it will block the pores and create a fish eye- same reason to not use auto wax for polishing the tables and bars etc.- most contain silicon. My lube of choice currently is either WD-40 or PB Blaster dry lube - basically Teflon (PTFE particles suspended in a medium that evaporates and leaves the Teflon behind. . I find it penetrates well and then the carrier evaporates but leaves the lube behind). For external surfaces, paste wax (I usually buy Johnson but there are other brands). Hope this helps.

[robinson46176]

I have an extra step on my "old" Mark VII. I tip it up to the left end and put a puddle of oil on the bearing for the speed changer by the cam and let it sit up in that position for a day or two and I turn it on a few times in hope that it will seep past the seal and keep the bearing from drying out over time. I'm just using "Three-In-One" oil but the stuff made for router bit bearings might be better. I'm out of that.

On the 2 Mark V's that I refurbished the drive sleeve assembly bearings felt dry so I bought new ones. They felt OK, just dry. I saved them back "just in case" (a curse in my family) About that time my King Cutter 5' 3 point finish mower lost the bearings in one of its blade quills. When I took it apart I noticed how much those bearings looked the same as the Shopsmith bearings. I got a pair of them out and they were a match. The mower quill has grease fittings so I used those to repair the mower. I completely filled the quill housing with grease and they have been working fine for some time...


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