Headstock reverse install
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Headstock reverse install
Hi everyone! I'm new to woodworking and to the shopsmith. I have inherited a 1955 Mark V machine yet I love the under table routing of newer models.
Has anyone ever tried taking the head stock off and reinstalling it and the table carrier in reverse in order to achieve under table routing?
Is their any danger in this?
Thanks for all the info, I know that if this is possible that the set up would be awful, but may be a temporary method until a dedicated router is in budget.
Has anyone ever tried taking the head stock off and reinstalling it and the table carrier in reverse in order to achieve under table routing?
Is their any danger in this?
Thanks for all the info, I know that if this is possible that the set up would be awful, but may be a temporary method until a dedicated router is in budget.
1955 Mark V, joiner
Eastern North Carolina
Eastern North Carolina
- JPG
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Re: Headstock reverse install
I have not actually done that but have thought it out.(I think!)
Remove both headstock and carriage.
Reinstall headstock first and reversed.
Reinstall carriage as originally oriented.
Remove and reverse table 'elevator' shaft/crank handle. Leave pinion gears as original. The reason for reversing the elevator is so the knob etc. are on the reverse side where the headstock controls will now be.
Realize the workpiece feed direction will be dependent upon the location of the fence(either inboard or outboard of the cutter).
The rip fence rail would now be on what is now the 'back' side(same as original orientation).
I hope I have thought this out correctly.
I am assuming Mark 5 or Mark V 500.
The setup is NOT awful, but does not lend itself to 'normal' setups.
Remove both headstock and carriage.
Reinstall headstock first and reversed.
Reinstall carriage as originally oriented.
Remove and reverse table 'elevator' shaft/crank handle. Leave pinion gears as original. The reason for reversing the elevator is so the knob etc. are on the reverse side where the headstock controls will now be.
Realize the workpiece feed direction will be dependent upon the location of the fence(either inboard or outboard of the cutter).
The rip fence rail would now be on what is now the 'back' side(same as original orientation).
I hope I have thought this out correctly.
I am assuming Mark 5 or Mark V 500.
The setup is NOT awful, but does not lend itself to 'normal' setups.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Re: Headstock reverse install
JPG: I was thinking the exact same thing. One would just need to be keenly aware that the cutting operations would need to be fed from the "backside" of the machine so as to feed in the proper direction.
Thanks for helping me think that through!
Thanks for helping me think that through!
1955 Mark V, joiner
Eastern North Carolina
Eastern North Carolina
Re: Headstock reverse install
It seems like a lot of "cobbling" to end up with a machine that doesn't have enough speed for real high speed routing.
You can get a cheap 2.5hp router from Harbor Freight for under $70 if you use their 25% off coupon. I have that router, and it is awesome for routing any kind of hardwood with large bits. Then, find a decent router table for it, and you have a reasonable priced dedicated router that will pay its way and give you the power and speed you need to do the job right.
You can get a cheap 2.5hp router from Harbor Freight for under $70 if you use their 25% off coupon. I have that router, and it is awesome for routing any kind of hardwood with large bits. Then, find a decent router table for it, and you have a reasonable priced dedicated router that will pay its way and give you the power and speed you need to do the job right.
- dusty
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Re: Headstock reverse install
Danger, NO. A lot of extra work that is not easily reversible. When done you have what I would consider a very temporary and minimally acceptable solution BUT it is a solution.Gospelsinger98 wrote:Hi everyone! I'm new to woodworking and to the shopsmith. I have inherited a 1955 Mark V machine yet I love the under table routing of newer models.
Has anyone ever tried taking the head stock off and reinstalling it and the table carrier in reverse in order to achieve under table routing?
Is their any danger in this?
Thanks for all the info, I know that if this is possible that the set up would be awful, but may be a temporary method until a dedicated router is in budget.
If you do this, however, pay close attention to the words of caution. Feed direction and speed become very important matters of concern!!!
Why not "above the table routing" rather that doing all of what has been hypothesized as a solution?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- JPG
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Re: Headstock reverse install
Above the table routing has the drawback of the necessity to insure the workpiece is held tight to the table. If not held tight, gouging occurs.
Under table routing on the other hand results in insufficient stock removal which can be corrected by another pass.
Above table routing is IMO more hazardous since the cutter is quite 'accessible'. It is however quite visible. Under table routing has the danger of the cutter being obscured by the workpiece.
As for the rpm 'deficiency', a slow feed rate suffices to minimize that, but that requires more 'time'. Again are we production types or merely out to enjoy the process?
Granted the rearrangement of parts makes the SS almost worthless for it's intended functions, but if one has 'spare parts' so as to make this a dedicated machine, it makes sense. In my case, a mini is the intended target.
Under table routing on the other hand results in insufficient stock removal which can be corrected by another pass.
Above table routing is IMO more hazardous since the cutter is quite 'accessible'. It is however quite visible. Under table routing has the danger of the cutter being obscured by the workpiece.
As for the rpm 'deficiency', a slow feed rate suffices to minimize that, but that requires more 'time'. Again are we production types or merely out to enjoy the process?
Granted the rearrangement of parts makes the SS almost worthless for it's intended functions, but if one has 'spare parts' so as to make this a dedicated machine, it makes sense. In my case, a mini is the intended target.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Re: Headstock reverse install
I agree with JPG. Above table routing is difficult at best and in my own experience the results are often less than acceptable. I think the suggestion of buying a 2-3 hp router is the best option. I have one of the HF 2 hp routers and it makes a very good router motor for a router table. You can either build a free standing router or build a table for the SS.
Paul
Paul
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Re: Headstock reverse install
I knew it would be a bear to swap around and I will likely get a dedicated router & table. It's just good to know that it can be done in a pinch if need be.
Thanks to all for your insight.
Thanks to all for your insight.
1955 Mark V, joiner
Eastern North Carolina
Eastern North Carolina
Re: Headstock reverse install
I have done this and yes it works,your feed is all ways against the direction of the blade no mater what tool you use , it worked for me and would do it again if needed jmo,, it is easy to do , Raise the tubes set a 4x4 or something under the tubes so it stays up ,and remove the head stock and carriage, then install the head stock and then the carriage , use the router / shaper insert and a scrap piece of sacrificial wood on the fence , be sure the bit doest come into contact with the metal fence , your speed will be determined by the bit size .
This worked for me and I had no issues of operation or safety.
JMO
This worked for me and I had no issues of operation or safety.
JMO
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Re: Headstock reverse install
I am a little confused with the swapping of positions and the direction of feed. Will the shaper fence still be on the correct side of the table for the feed direction of the wood?