10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
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- everettdavis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2162
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:49 am
- Location: Lubbock, TX
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
I even take an old milk carton side and bottom and cut a wiring guard the switch mount passes through on a Mark V to shield the switch terminals since your hands go into the headstock for cleaning and maintenance. Shopsmith used a cardboard shield that gets lost or degraded over time.
The 10 series had most everything outside the headstock so your hands don’t get inside them often.
Yes we are instructed to unplug the machines during maintenance but someone in a hurry could forget and the shield is a life saver, literally.
Everett
The 10 series had most everything outside the headstock so your hands don’t get inside them often.
Yes we are instructed to unplug the machines during maintenance but someone in a hurry could forget and the shield is a life saver, literally.
Everett
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
Hmm... You lost me on that. I'm not quite following what your are trying to explain. Anny chance you can make a diagram of what you are explaining? My wiring currently runs directly to the switch, then from the switch to the motor. That is basically what jsburger said he does, breaking the ground out at the switch and taking it down to the motor mount. I think you are explaining something different, I'm just not following.everettdavis wrote:Since the 10E/10ER have exposed wiring, I would use a segment of the extension cord up and back, and switch both sides, cutting the ground at the switch and heat shrink the wires breaking out at both ends. The motor mount bars will ground the case and you can more easily remove, service the motor or replace the bearings later without disturbing the wiring. Every wire that goes to the motor would be part of that new extension cord.
Chris
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
I was thinking a loop clamp or something. But a zip tie sounds nice and easy since I don't think I'll find a loop clamp sized appropriately for #12 cable with the right size hole to go over those motor mount screws.jsburger wrote:I don't think there was any strain relief originally since the Model 10's were sold without a motor. It was up to the user. However a strain relief is absolutely a good idea. It is a bit hard to see in the picture but I just use a zip tie to the motor mount.
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
Yup, very easy and you probably already have a zip tie.Chriss wrote:I was thinking a loop clamp or something. But a zip tie sounds nice and easy since I don't think I'll find a loop clamp sized appropriately for #12 cable with the right size hole to go over those motor mount screws.jsburger wrote:I don't think there was any strain relief originally since the Model 10's were sold without a motor. It was up to the user. However a strain relief is absolutely a good idea. It is a bit hard to see in the picture but I just use a zip tie to the motor mount.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
I think that is what Everett is saying in a different way. The original switch was a double pole single throw. It switched both the hot and the neutral. That is what your switch looks like so don't get confused. Just wire it as you know with the 3 wire grounded cord grounded to the motor mount.Chriss wrote:Hmm... You lost me on that. I'm not quite following what your are trying to explain. Anny chance you can make a diagram of what you are explaining? My wiring currently runs directly to the switch, then from the switch to the motor. That is basically what jsburger said he does, breaking the ground out at the switch and taking it down to the motor mount. I think you are explaining something different, I'm just not following.everettdavis wrote:Since the 10E/10ER have exposed wiring, I would use a segment of the extension cord up and back, and switch both sides, cutting the ground at the switch and heat shrink the wires breaking out at both ends. The motor mount bars will ground the case and you can more easily remove, service the motor or replace the bearings later without disturbing the wiring. Every wire that goes to the motor would be part of that new extension cord.
Chris
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
Ok, sounds like a plan.jsburger wrote: Just wire it as you know with the 3 wire grounded cord grounded to the motor mount.
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
Similar to what John did, I ran my wires through the slots on the motor mounting plate and attached with a zip tie to provide strain relief.
Of interest is the wire routing on my 10ER dedicated drill press. This is the one with the second logo plate on the back side, believed to be a demonstrator unit. The wire comes in through a hole in the back of the casting, The hole was made before it was painted so presumably done at the factory. Also there is a small nut and machine screw, can't remember if that is for the ground or if it is a strain relief.
I think the next time I rewire one, I will run a long wire to an outlet block (four outlets) on the bench, and just a short wire from the headstock that will plug into that receptacle. That will make it convenient to unplug when doing changeovers and also give a place to plug in lights and small power tools.
Of interest is the wire routing on my 10ER dedicated drill press. This is the one with the second logo plate on the back side, believed to be a demonstrator unit. The wire comes in through a hole in the back of the casting, The hole was made before it was painted so presumably done at the factory. Also there is a small nut and machine screw, can't remember if that is for the ground or if it is a strain relief.
I think the next time I rewire one, I will run a long wire to an outlet block (four outlets) on the bench, and just a short wire from the headstock that will plug into that receptacle. That will make it convenient to unplug when doing changeovers and also give a place to plug in lights and small power tools.
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34693
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
Since the motor is likely a 1/2 HP, I think a 14 gauge cord is sufficient if not excessively long. 12-15 ft is adequate IMO. Do use crimped terminals rather than bare wire when terminating.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
Seems simple enough.rpd wrote:Similar to what John did, I ran my wires through the slots on the motor mounting plate and attached with a zip tie to provide strain relief.
Re: 10ER Motor Cleaning and Wiring
I figure I'll go with a 15 ft cord. Probably just go ahead and get 12 gauge. Yep, I'll use crimped terminals.JPG wrote:Since the motor is likely a 1/2 HP, I think a 14 gauge cord is sufficient if not excessively long. 12-15 ft is adequate IMO. Do use crimped terminals rather than bare wire when terminating.