Setting Table Heights

sandyj · Post by **sandyj** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 1:44 am

I have an elderly but well performing Mk V that I use with various setups including a home made saw-sled. One challenge I happened on was getting the main table And Aux table to the correct height.
This is now history on my MkV. I have several sets of 1" inside diameter plastic tubes that I have slit lengthwise to make predimensioned sleves that fit on the main table and aux table legs. They are all labeled for what they are and kept in sets.
Now if I want to cut with the saw sled I use set "A".
If I want to cut slots at a standard depth I would have a set made to the predetermined offset, and keep if I think they will be used again - trimmed down if not.
Works well and when in use everything aligns just fine.
The plastic tube is used PVC water pipe - cheap and easy to work with.

Regards

Sandy in NZ

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:20 am

Clever! I like the idea. If the cuts on the pipe are made carefully, you could also use stacked pieces. Like 2", 1", 0.5", 0.25" etc.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:33 am

Sandyj, your solution is quite ingenious however, I don't believe I understand the problem.

The problem as stated was "One challenge I happened on was getting the main table And Aux table to the correct height."

If this means "Get the tables set to the same height" the solution seems to be in the use of a straight edge resting across both tables.

If it means "Get both tables to the correct height with the needed degree of Accuracy" the solution seems to be in the use of the "Adjustable Stop Collar".

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_adjustablestopcollar.htm

I have one of these on my main table and each of my extension tables. However, I could easily be convinced that the ones on the extension tables are "over kill".

reible · Post by **reible** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 9:09 am

Hi,

Sometime along the way I've posted this but I don't recall where or when... However the pictures show the concept and it works with any vintage of shopwmith.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12199425@N ... 718316168/

Ed

sandyj · Post by **sandyj** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:05 am

Dusty, the straight edge bothered me - I use a 42" saw sledge and the waxed hardwood runner slides on the extension table the hard wood guide slides in the mitre slot - both tables are slightly off set height wise. The plastic pipes have the required height and identification written on them. I cut all my cuts using max blade height so I never need to adjust the height once set. The saw guard fits between the saw sledge and the off-cut board so the setup is quite self contained. Another set has both tables at the same level and use this for general small cutting where the big sled is a bother to lift onto the machine.
I like to do "precision" wood working when possible therefore the saw sledge but a lot of time the need is for "quick and dirty" cutting of timber where near enough (cringe) will do - major fence pailings and posts. or urgent animal cages or sheds. When time and material allow I love to spend quality time on quality goods - most are gifts but the experience helps build the skillset so one day there will be an income producing project or two. Then more upgrades to the Shopsmith (He he)
Regards
Sandy in NZ

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 6:00 am

It sounds as though you have this challenge completely under control and that is good. Unique solutions for unusual problems.

Would it be possible for you to post some photos of a typical setup? I would be very interesting in seeing them and I am sure others would too.

Good job.

shydragon · Post by **shydragon** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:00 am

Yes, I would like to see photos of your setup.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:25 pm

sandyj wrote:Dusty, the straight edge bothered me - I use a 42" saw sledge and the waxed hardwood runner slides on the extension table the hard wood guide slides in the mitre slot - both tables are slightly off set height wise. The plastic pipes have the required height and identification written on them. I cut all my cuts using max blade height so I never need to adjust the height once set. The saw guard fits between the saw sledge and the off-cut board so the setup is quite self contained. Another set has both tables at the same level and use this for general small cutting where the big sled is a bother to lift onto the machine.
I like to do "precision" wood working when possible therefore the saw sledge but a lot of time the need is for "quick and dirty" cutting of timber where near enough (cringe) will do - major fence pailings and posts. or urgent animal cages or sheds. When time and material allow I love to spend quality time on quality goods - most are gifts but the experience helps build the skillset so one day there will be an income producing project or two. Then more upgrades to the Shopsmith (He he)
Regards
Sandy in NZ

Sandy
Forgive me but I don't understand. If you always do you cuts with max blade height why do you need different sets of guages.

I would think all you need is to lower the main table to the top of the powerhead and then make on guage to set your aux table.
That would never change whether you use or don't use a sled.

Evidently I'm missing something since you have various guages but you said you always used max depth. I'm confused please help me understand.
Thanks
Ed

sandyj · Post by **sandyj** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 6:02 am

My maximum possible depth of cut theory is that the saw-blade helps keep the timber 'down' on the table - that is pulls it down in the direction of rotation - I use feather-boards and push sticks & saw guards where possible. (I don't mean to open a can of worms here just my way of getting things done.)
The table on my 1960 machine is far from 'flat' so a straight edge to aux table is a waste of time. The left and right edges are dished downwards a bit.
I set up the table with timber in place and took measurements and built the 'tube supports' to give me a cut at 90 degrees to the vertical/horizontal. Once the timber was cut right the tubes were marked as a set.
that was the first set.
The other set had the aux table height lower by 5/64ths or there about to accommodate the saw sledge's runner on the far side.
I will get some pics onto my flicker and show what Im onto.
With the table down on the power head there is some resistance with the lower saw guard. I do not want to force the table down hard so I have taken it down as far as I felt comfortable and backed it up a fraction - all very arbatory so I needed something that would give me repeatability - hence the tube supports.

Regards
Sandy in NZ