I will try to answer the questions asked and post a picture form a different angle. Just remember this jig was set up to be functional not for show:) .
What is the indexing disk mounted to?
I use a spindle adapter to attach the 1 x 8 threaded chuck. The adapter has a shoulder and the index plate is jammed between the shoulder and the back of the chuck.
What is the detent mounted to?
The detent or index pin is mounted to the SS upper ways. I used a clamp to hold everything in place.
When you make the cuts with the router are the surfaces as polished as the final pictures or do you have to buff each cut out? If so what do you use.
The entire stopper is buffed using Beall compounds.
I noticed a buffing wheel on the other end of the power head, what is used for? tools or the turnings?
I sometimes polish the metal stopper parts. The wheel shown is used for that process. It just happend to be the one mounted on the headstock when the picture was taken.
source of the plastic?
The material is cast using PR resin and dyes from Michaels Crafts.
how the buffing wheel mounts?
The buffing wheels are mounted in a motor arbor with left handed threads.
where do you get your materials?
Casting Craft resin from Michaels. (look for a 40% off coupon in the Sunday paper.)
will you share your fixture designs?
The indexing setup in the photos is from another lathe if have but can be as simple as an arm clamped to a cross piece and clamped to the SS ways.
The router fixture is made from material I had on hand. Basically I made a adapter to attach the router to the SS tool post holder. A tee like bushing (yellow delrin through tool post holder) with a hole drilled through the center fits in the toolpost holder. A 12mm bolt and nut holds the router adapter to the bushing which allows horizontal movement of the router. (Refer to the following picture:o .
If Ms. Wolf sees this she will wonder why I can't make her the decorative door knobs she has been wanting.
Send me a pictue of the door knob you need. If I can do a close match I will give you a quote.
John
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Bottle Stoppers
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Ed in Tampa
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pinkiewerewolf
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John, a big thanks for sharing the information and photos.
I'll send you a PM.
I'll send you a PM.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.
Those are GREAT LOOKING bottle stoppers. Thanks for the info about Michaels.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Care to answer a couple more questions??
I'm looking to do some thing different the you have done however the idea you had for the router mounting very much interests me.
I can see the the vertical height can be set by use of the tool rest which is a much better idea then I had been working on.
Now what I'm unsure about is how you use the insert in the tool rest. Do you adjust the router with the top part of the tool rest (lever) or is the nut through the insert... and are you swiveling to do some cuts via one of these. Do you also move the carriage to do cuts?
I'm also interested in what bits you are using... profiles, etc.
Perhaps if you could run though how you do some of the cuts it would be helpful?
Thanks,
Ed
I'm looking to do some thing different the you have done however the idea you had for the router mounting very much interests me.
I can see the the vertical height can be set by use of the tool rest which is a much better idea then I had been working on.
Now what I'm unsure about is how you use the insert in the tool rest. Do you adjust the router with the top part of the tool rest (lever) or is the nut through the insert... and are you swiveling to do some cuts via one of these. Do you also move the carriage to do cuts?
I'm also interested in what bits you are using... profiles, etc.
Perhaps if you could run though how you do some of the cuts it would be helpful?
Thanks,
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I will answer any questions where I can.reible wrote:Care to answer a couple more questions??
Not sure what you are doing but if it is long flutes or polygonals you may have some luck cutting them by loosening the carriage and pulling the router along the work piece. There may be some vibration issues to deal with since the carriage is not locked.I'm looking to do some thing different the you have done however the idea you had for the router mounting very much interests me.
Yes the height is adjusted using the table height adjustment wheel.I can see the the vertical height can be set by use of the tool rest which is a much better idea then I had been working on.
The router is free to swivel on the tool post insert. The long handle used to tighten the lathe tool rest is left loose for this jig.Now what I'm unsure about is how you use the insert in the tool rest. Do you adjust the router with the top part of the tool rest (lever) or is the nut through the insert... and are you swiveling to do some cuts via one of these. Do you also move the carriage to do cuts?
The router is positioned by moving the carraige left or right and by adjusting the arm using the short handle. Once in position carriage lock and the short handle are locked in place. The only thing that will move is the horizontal arc movement of the router.
I use different sized cove and v bits. The coves are much easier to buff out so I use them where possible.I'm also interested in what bits you are using... profiles, etc.
The first picture shows a completed cut. Every thing is locked down except the router/tee bushing allowing the router to swing in a arc. The cut is made by using your hand to swing the router in an arc. Make all the cuts around the work using the index wheel then move the position of the router for the next series of cuts. The last picture shows the router positioned to make cust on the end of the stopper. To get from picture one positon to the position in the last picture loosen the carriage and short handle. Adjust the router by rotating it, moving the tool rest arm and sliding the carriage left or right to get it into position. You will be able to see appromimatel where the cut will be made when the router bit is just short of making a cut. Move the router bit and make a light cut and move the bit in again if a heavier cut is needed.Perhaps if you could run though how you do some of the cuts it would be helpful?
Hope that makes sense
John
OK I think I see how this works now. Very very interesting. Now I'm seeing a second possible use of your idea, and they are not including the bottle stoppers idea.
The radius is then from the center of the bushing to the tip of the bit used. I'm guessing this would then be about 4 or 5 inches from the look of the setup, is that about right?
Thanks for sharing!
Ed
The radius is then from the center of the bushing to the tip of the bit used. I'm guessing this would then be about 4 or 5 inches from the look of the setup, is that about right?
Thanks for sharing!
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]