PowerPro Idler shaft bearings ???

[reible]

I have to say I'm a bit confused at the problem as I too own two of these powerpro's and have had zero problems in this area.

Is the machine in question one that you purchased from shopsmith as a powerpro or was it a DIY kit from them or a pre-owned one from another person?

Which casting is involved, A, B or C?

Have you verified that the straight edge placed on the motor pulley aligns with the center of the poly v pulley? I have not had this problem but have read that some times the pulley on the motor shaft comes loose, so best to check that too.

How about checking to make sure the motor is not cocked, if it were then tracking might be funny?

I seem to recall that the belt should be on the on the groove closest to the short side?

How about the screw and washer on the eccentric bushing?

When tightening the ears I just flatten the lock washer and that is plenty tight. Pushing on the shaft it should not move.

I have a B and C headstocks so I can open one of them up to look at things at some point when it warms up in the shop if that would help. Both of mine were the DIY kits but it has been a while since I did them so my memory is not as good as it once was so perhaps I'm not recalling things right.

Ed

[godavid2]

Moved the drive sheave belt fore a grove. For the most part took care of the idler shaft moving inwards. Where as before the idler shaft moved inwards close to 1/4" which was not good. The shaft still moves inward about an 1/16" now which I think is acceptable but don't understand why one PP has problems with the idler shaft moving inward and one does not. Now the motor pulley has a loud click and the set screw is tight. Any ideas?? thanks

[godavid2]

Ed, the 2013 is a DIY and B stock which I have little problems if any. I have not use it much though. The 2016 is a C stock that I bought from a gentleman who had never used. He said when he bought it he got sick and when he better he decided it was not for him ie individual tools was his choice. When I got it home the first I notice wrong was the quill feed was not right fixed that then notice the idler was sunken in too far. So I fixed that. Everything seem to be okay. Then I put it up for sale. Whenever I sale a expensive piece of equipment I always check them out because I'm that way. I don't want to get something that has something wrong with it. Sold it on Ebay went to check it out and the control board did not work hence my other post 900 rpm button did not work. Had to send it to SS to check it out found out bad. They sold me another one "special going on now with repair headstocks" Twenty-five % of $600 which came to $500 with shipping and taxes. I moved the poly v belt one fore on the drive sheave and that helped with the idler shaft staying in the same position. I'm not going to tighten those ears very tight. Sorry for the long post. Motor is good except making a clicking noise now. The clicking sound is from the motor pulley might be from the back too.

[reible]

Can you verify that the screw and washer are present items 82 and 81? And 48 and 49?

Ed

[godavid2]

Both screws are present. When I loosened the screw to tightens the eccentric bushing the clicking noise went away. I having a hard time believing that a idler shaft bearing could be bad.

[reible]

How about some pictures? I fail to see how the shaft can move in with those two screws and washers in place.

I'd also like to see how the belts look inside if you can range that.

Bearing gone bad? I guess anything is possible. Previous owner might not have been as forth coming as he should have. Having several problems showing up like this one has to start questioning everything.

Did you get to make sure the motor is horizontal, if it isn't then that could present itself as this sort of issue.

Ed

[jsburger]

Just another data point vis-a-vi the motor pulley making a ticking noise.

I bought my SS made Power Pro head stock from Dave Folkerth in Dec 2012 at Lows in Layton, UT. I got it in Jan 2013. I fired it up on the bench before installing it and it sounded fine. After installing it on my 520 it would make a ticking noise when first starting cold. The noise went away after it ran for a few minutes after worming up. I did not think that was correct but I didn't want to send it back to SS.

After a few days I decided to remove the belt cover and check it out. I used the old broom handle/dowel stethoscope engine mechanic trick and found the noise was coming from the idler shaft bearing. I tweaked the clamp bolt just enough to make it move and the noise went away and has been fine to this day.

There is a thread here from 7 years ago explaining the whole thing.

[godavid2]

Ed, those screws you are referring to have nothing to do with the idler shaft but everything to do with the eccentric bushing. The idler shaft is where the problems lies and if the dog ears are tightened too tight the clicking loud clicking starts. The shaft bearings were pretty loose inside the eccentric bushing when I had it apart outside the casting. I don't know if it is suppose to be that way for fit or not. SS actually suggests that the idler shaft adjustment be done while the pp is running and yes I had it horizontal.