need electrical part

[AZWoodMachinest]

60's vintage mark 7, GE motor using a start relay and start capacitor. Has anyone replaced the start capacitor? Which number start capacitor was used as a replacement?
Thank you
Will

[JPG]

60's vintage mark 7, GE motor using a start relay and start capacitor. Has anyone replaced the start capacitor? Which number start capacitor was used as a replacement?
Thank you
Will

Start capacitors RARELY go bad.

Are you sure it is the culprit?

[AZWoodMachinest]

start relay tested good with VOM meter set on ohms. relay was replaced a couple of years ago. Start capacitor tested "iffy" and slow. The after reassembly test started good both directions. Ten minutes later, just a hum. I am now thinking of the shotgun approach.
W

[AZWoodMachinest]

looking up the specs. online the Mars 19550 relay is only rated for a 1/3 horse motor. Anybody have info for 1.5 horse motor relay?

[lahola1]

here is the mars relay I got for my mark VII. So far it works great.
Also a pic of my capacitor. BTW if it makes any difference I have an AO Smith 1-1/8HP motor.
good luck.

[Danimal713]

I recently acquired a Mark VII on a trip to visit one of my brothers in IN. I picked it up from Lima OH from a gentleman who found it and a 10ER at an auction. Originally it ran but after about 4 power-ups, it just hummed. He had taken the motor to a shop that specializes in motor repair and they said motor was good but starting replay was bad. It hummed attempting to start in either direction. I have used SSmith tools over 40 years and repaired/refurbished now over 18 years. I knew a couple people who had Mark VIIs and liked them (except the "dust collector") but had never seen one. Up unto last Fall, I had run 5 in my shop regularly- main 520 or 520, standalone drill press, 2 minis, and a "Sammy Sosa" lathe originally used for coring wooden baseball bats (until Sammy got busted during a game when a cored bat broke!). Last Oct my company of almost 38 years made me an offer to retire with severance which I accepted and never looked back. I had someone trade me a refurbished SSmith headstock for a Fox SuperShop missing many parts. I liked it so much mostly because of the 130 vs 480 lb difference between it and the SSmith- and the speed range down to 32 RPM and up to 7200 RPM. So when I had the chance to pick up this VII for a good price, it jumped into the back of my truck ("I swear it did it all by itself Honey" I told the wife!). It is just a machine with the VII carriage and lathe tool rest and nothing else. The base needs painting as rust is starting to take over the paint. I took it apart and checked the motor and found the ground wire for the motor was not attached and had attached itself to one of the switch terminals. It ran in forward but hummed in reverse. I attached to the ground screw and after lubrication, it runs in both directions. The belt is stretched and worn and it starts slipping just short os saw speed. I have a replacement on order from D&D Power along with a restock of Mark V belts (4L260) since I was running low. I stock bearings and will eventually tear it apart and put new ones in (the write up on how to get a VII apart are very helpful to shorten the learning curve). I already use the SShop for the lathe (I acquired another Fox and a Smithy- great now he has another addiction tool said the wife!) so do not need to use it as a lathe but because it can flip both directions (like the new Mark 7) and motor goes in both directions (like the new Mark 7), I have quickly become attached to it and it will most likely stay in my shop stable. I was able to turn the Mark V M500 table tubes 180 degrees to fit into the VII carriage and mount a M500 table on it so I will be able to use it for something. I think the speed reducer/increaser should also fit if I mount them past the gear rack. I also have quite a few extra M500 carriages so cutting a slot to clear the gear track is possible but not needed for now since I got the tubes turned.
OK that is the story, and here are the questions:
1) I swapped emails with aloha1 who successfully swapped the start relay with the one in an earlier post. He did not capture the wiring so I was wondering if anyone did capture the correct wiring of this replacement relay compared to the original?
2) The dust collector impeller free-wheels. It makes a lot of noise and is really not very effective. I suspect is is supposed to be loose in case a chunk of debris hit it, the plastic vanes would be less likely to break. But as a verification, is the impeller supposed to be loose but no side play?
I loaded M500 table on VII picture of it during/after getting the M500 table mounted.

M500 table in VII carriage-tubes turned 180

M500 table on VII carriage.jpg (326 KiB) Viewed 12524 times

I will try to contribute more to this forum since I have lots of knowledge (Not as much as the sorely missed Bill Mayo), but quite a bit. I worked in IT for almost 41 years so sitting at a keyboard for too long and I get flashbacks- I am retired after all!
Thanks in advance for all replies and more knowledge.
BTW, an afterthought. I found a link to someone who has made the infamous cam in the past and have emailed asking if this might be possible again. The choices were plastic and bronzed steel and even one from aluminum (almost $300 at whenever it was posted). Here is the link that advertised this.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/ENZED ... arketplace

[garys]

That start capacitor would be an easy find at any local electric motor shop near you. Just take it in and get a new one like it.

[JPG]

Hello to the SS guru from Maryville!

The relay has three terminals.

The coil and contacts share a common terminal.

The relay terminals MAY have numbers(a carry over from ancient GE start relays).

"2" should be the common terminal.

"5" should the the other coil terminal.

"1" should be the other switch terminal.

The MVII power switch shares these terminal numbers.

The attached pix are for a GE motor and another with a different motor(AOSmith?).

I think they will be helpful.

If you need a different version shout out.

BTW all the restaurants in KY are closed(drive thru only) and residents must be put in 2 wk quarantene upon returning into KY. So no coffee stops possible at the present time. I am giving up a week in G'burg because of that. So later maybe.

P.S. The fan impeller should have a keyway and the shaft a very small woodruff key(IIRC). NOPE! IDRC - see below

P.P.S. The M5 motor belts are too short.(by 4"). The M5 poly-v belt will work, but is 4 ribs too narrow.

[lahola1]

hi dan,
i realize now that i didn't give clear instruction on how to access everett's google drive.
click on the top post in maintenance and repair ("shopsmith large format drawings");go down the page a little till you see in RED lettering "my google drive"; then click on the mark VII box for all the mark VII pics and info. i've attached both wiring drawings of GE motor and AO Smith motor from everette's google drive because i don't know which you have. hope that helps.

impeller : when i was trying to get my mk VII i was hearing an occillating hum. i was worried that my motor was failing after all the work i went thru getting it going. i found that the noise was my vac impeller was slipping on the shaft sometimes. i took it off ; no more noise. i left it off for now because i didn't need it. your idea of slipping to avoid breaking the plastic vanes sounds somewhat logical but i don't for sure. i just went out and put my impeller on and can lock it down tight if i want but i don't know which would be correct.

[lahola1]

JPG,
my mk VII is an early one ;sn 405025 and does not have a key slot so i guess that answers the question that it should be locked down.