Beveled drive shaft retaining ring

[JJOS]

I took apart my drive shaft to replace the two bearings, but one of the retaining rings is beveled. I'm unable to locate any drawings detailing correct the orientation of the ring.

Can anyone assist me in this?

[JPG]

I took apart my drive shaft to replace the two bearings, but one of the retaining rings is beveled. I'm unable to locate any drawings detailing correct the orientation of the ring.

Can anyone assist me in this?

Beveled???????

It should be flat.

[JJOS]

I took apart my drive shaft to replace the two bearings, but one of the retaining rings is beveled. I'm unable to locate any drawings detailing correct the orientation of the ring.

Can anyone assist me in this?

Beveled???????

It should be flat.

Here's a few images of the snap ring in question and where I believe it existed before removal. Maybe it bent during the removal of the shaft from the head?

Hopefully I can purchase a new one locally if it's not meant to be beveled.

https://imgur.com/a/WhQTB2c

[br549]

Thanks for the link to the pictures, but it is generally better to upload directly to the Shopsmith Forum, so they will always be viewable in the future. Uploading pictures here is not always intuitive, so see the post under the Community Forum "How to Post a Picture" for hints. Usually the pictures just need to be reduced in size.

[JPG]

It appears you removed the retaining ring with a screw driver, rather than with snap ring pliers. You can attempt to flatten the ring with hammer and 'anvil'. However it would be best to replace it.

Although they appear 'hard', they are actually quite soft and can me 'formed'. Their spring range is quite limited.

[wa2crk]

If the snap ring is in the groove it is usable. However I agree with JPG and it should be replaced. If you live near a good Ace, Tractor Supply or some other large hardware supplier they should have one.
Bill V

[JJOS]

Thanks for the help guys, I was able to hammer the ring back to flat and install the new bearings without issue. I should have gotten a new one, but I don't see much of an issue with it failing after being installed since it's mainly a static part to the shaft. I did use snap ring pliers to remove and install it, so I believe it curved during the removal of the drive sleeve from the head. Those bearing were in REAL tight. I was amazed I didn't crack the casting.

On another note and because maybe I can get this answered without a new thread; I have the single bearing quill. I'm trying to replace the bearing on the quill, but old threads on this forum indicate it came with a C1 grade bearing. The bearing taken out is a 6202ZZ, but no indication of a C1. Was the C1 only used on the 10e machines and not the Mark V? I'm asking because my local dealer is having a real hard time finding a C1 bearing since they're not commonly made anymore.

[DLB]

The Jacob Anderson site shows the bearing in stock for a single bearing quill. It is a bit hard to read the full PN, but it looks like a C3.(?)
https://jacobs-repair-shop.myshopify.co ... -1954-1985

As far as I know his work is well regarded. IIWM, I'd use this, or equivalent, without much hesitation.

-David

[JPG]

Thanks for the help guys, I was able to hammer the ring back to flat and install the new bearings without issue. I should have gotten a new one, but I don't see much of an issue with it failing after being installed since it's mainly a static part to the shaft. I did use snap ring pliers to remove and install it, so I believe it curved during the removal of the drive sleeve from the head. Those bearing were in REAL tight. I was amazed I didn't crack the casting.

On another note and because maybe I can get this answered without a new thread; I have the single bearing quill. I'm trying to replace the bearing on the quill, but old threads on this forum indicate it came with a C1 grade bearing. The bearing taken out is a 6202ZZ, but no indication of a C1. Was the C1 only used on the 10e machines and not the Mark V? I'm asking because my local dealer is having a real hard time finding a C1 bearing since they're not commonly made anymore.

Tell him you want a bearing with minimal runout.

A 6202 MUST have a 0.625 inside dimension od 35mm, width 11mm id 5/8 inch

I recommend a 2RS (rubber seal).