I'm sure this question has been asked a thousand times on here so if anyone can point me to the right thread regarding this topic I'll gladly read it.
I have an old 1964 poorly cared for Bandsaw I plan to restore it and bring it back to a new level.
The problem is I do not have a Shopsmith yet to actually run the bandsaw and see how it performs.
With that said is there a way to do a visual and physical inspection of wheels and bearings and so on to know what does and does not need to be replaced?
For you guys that have the Bandsaw what has been your experiences?
Let me know your thoughts guys.
Thanks.
Bandsaw Restore
Moderator: admin
Re: Bandsaw Restore
Based on your other threads I surmise that you are planning to acquire a M7. And based on other threads, some members have had compatibility(?) problems between the PP Head-stock and band-saws. If that is where you are heading, I suggest familiarizing yourself with those concerns so you know what to watch for. I'll be doing the same if/when I get my PP upgrade. My view is that the mothership needs to be engaged on issues like this when possible if we are to hope for real solutions.
SS carries a number of BS accessories that are not compatible with the old iron table. The fence, circle cutter, and table extension are, I think, only compatible with the aluminum tables. Similarly, if you buy that M7 your new miter gauge will be compatible with a T-slot not present on the iron BS table. One of your first decisions should be whether or not to stick with the iron table if that is what you have.
SS has carried a BS retro-fit kit for the older band-saws. IIRC, it retrofits several blade guide bearings (from bushings) and adds cool blocks in the guide. These are both nice improvements. 'Poorly cared for' suggest yours doesn't have these, but you might check first.
-David
SS carries a number of BS accessories that are not compatible with the old iron table. The fence, circle cutter, and table extension are, I think, only compatible with the aluminum tables. Similarly, if you buy that M7 your new miter gauge will be compatible with a T-slot not present on the iron BS table. One of your first decisions should be whether or not to stick with the iron table if that is what you have.
SS has carried a BS retro-fit kit for the older band-saws. IIRC, it retrofits several blade guide bearings (from bushings) and adds cool blocks in the guide. These are both nice improvements. 'Poorly cared for' suggest yours doesn't have these, but you might check first.
-David
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4544
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Bandsaw Restore
I do recall something about Band Saws and headstock coupling that David may be referring to. I have a Mark V that has been completely upgraded to a Mark 7 and currently three Band Saws the oldest is from 1956 and as far as I can tell is all original. I still need to restore it. It lines up perfectly to the Power Pro Headstock on my Shopsmith. This Band Saw has the straight posts with the set screw locking collars. My other two Band Saws from 1995 and 2006 both have the standard offset mounting posts. You could replace the original straight mounting posts with the newer offset posts if alignment is an issue.
As David said the Fence, Table extension and Circle Cutter are only for the newer Aluminum Table. The older Cast Iron Table uses the Miter as a fence and you could use the Miter from the Mark 7 by simply removing the guide washer for the "T" track. You would also want to remove the Safety Grip. Another option would be to get another miter without the Safety Grip and "T" track washer for use with the Band Saw.
Check out the Band Saw Tune Up Kits available from Shopsmith to see which one is best for what your Band Saw needs. The bearings are fine in mine so I have the Basic Kit coming to restore mine. If yours is a gray painted Band Saw the older gray touch up paint will match for a fresh new look and is currently on sale from SS. If yours is a "Goldie" I used Rustoleum Hammered Finish Oatmeal color paint on a Goldie I restored. It was a near perfect match for the hammered finish on the Goldie Mark 5 and Jointer I restored. If you are interested, for the copper color I used Rustoleum Hammered Finish Copper. I have seen the underside of a table on a Goldie painted copper. I am not sure if that is the way they came or it was done by someone later.
The biggest change in the Band Saw since it's introduction in 1955 has been the change to the Aluminum Table and it's accessories. Other changes made are compatible with the Band Saws that have either table. Improvements like the backup guides or adding a dust chute can be done on any year Band Saw.
As David said the Fence, Table extension and Circle Cutter are only for the newer Aluminum Table. The older Cast Iron Table uses the Miter as a fence and you could use the Miter from the Mark 7 by simply removing the guide washer for the "T" track. You would also want to remove the Safety Grip. Another option would be to get another miter without the Safety Grip and "T" track washer for use with the Band Saw.
Check out the Band Saw Tune Up Kits available from Shopsmith to see which one is best for what your Band Saw needs. The bearings are fine in mine so I have the Basic Kit coming to restore mine. If yours is a gray painted Band Saw the older gray touch up paint will match for a fresh new look and is currently on sale from SS. If yours is a "Goldie" I used Rustoleum Hammered Finish Oatmeal color paint on a Goldie I restored. It was a near perfect match for the hammered finish on the Goldie Mark 5 and Jointer I restored. If you are interested, for the copper color I used Rustoleum Hammered Finish Copper. I have seen the underside of a table on a Goldie painted copper. I am not sure if that is the way they came or it was done by someone later.
The biggest change in the Band Saw since it's introduction in 1955 has been the change to the Aluminum Table and it's accessories. Other changes made are compatible with the Band Saws that have either table. Improvements like the backup guides or adding a dust chute can be done on any year Band Saw.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Re: Bandsaw Restore
David you are correct on you assumption that I will be buying a Mark 7 in the near future. I vaguely remember a thread speaking of alignment to the headstock issue so I 'll do some looking. Wasn't he blowing couplers or something?
I was just wondering if I open it up and start turning the tires and bearings and stuff what to look for. Should the wheels be tight or is there supposed to be a little wobble? I remember this bandsaw working when my dad had it and i don't remember any squealing. There is a vast difference between kits on the SS website. That is why I want to be sure I need the whole overhaul kit rather that the basic kit.
I do also plan to upgrade the table to the aluminum table along with the other accessories associated with that. I got lucky on eBay and found the new cover with the dust chute and little window in it for $20. That was a hell of a deal.
I'll post pix when I can.
I was just wondering if I open it up and start turning the tires and bearings and stuff what to look for. Should the wheels be tight or is there supposed to be a little wobble? I remember this bandsaw working when my dad had it and i don't remember any squealing. There is a vast difference between kits on the SS website. That is why I want to be sure I need the whole overhaul kit rather that the basic kit.
I do also plan to upgrade the table to the aluminum table along with the other accessories associated with that. I got lucky on eBay and found the new cover with the dust chute and little window in it for $20. That was a hell of a deal.
I'll post pix when I can.
Re: Bandsaw Restore
Some of us prefer the old cast iron table, well at least I do. While the AL table has some advantages it also lost the cross miter slot which I have found to be very useful.
As far as fences I went with at magnetic version, you can see it here along with some taller fence extensions:
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... ce#p206142
For circle cutting I went with the Carter system which you can look at here:
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... er#p149695
Another solution to the t-slot washer issue can be seen here:
http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic ... 75#p111075
Before I over load you too much I also like the old black tires rather then the newer versions, personal preference.
I have two powerpro and neither of them have the "bandsaw issue". A few seem to but others don't?? Anyway another thing I like about this set up is that the band saw can be mounted on the other end and the motor reversed and I find I use this as often as the standard way.
Ed
As far as fences I went with at magnetic version, you can see it here along with some taller fence extensions:
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... ce#p206142
For circle cutting I went with the Carter system which you can look at here:
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... er#p149695
Another solution to the t-slot washer issue can be seen here:
http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic ... 75#p111075
Before I over load you too much I also like the old black tires rather then the newer versions, personal preference.
I have two powerpro and neither of them have the "bandsaw issue". A few seem to but others don't?? Anyway another thing I like about this set up is that the band saw can be mounted on the other end and the motor reversed and I find I use this as often as the standard way.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: Bandsaw Restore
Oh yes forgot the one I originally wanted to mention on a lot of mods that can be done to the older bandsaws:
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... t8361.html
Ed
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... t8361.html
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: Bandsaw Restore
Wow Ed that's a great link. Thanks. Looks like I have some reading to do.reible wrote:Oh yes forgot the one I originally wanted to mention on a lot of mods that can be done to the older bandsaws:
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... t8361.html
Ed
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4544
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Bandsaw Restore
Spooner you said,
Turning the wheels without a blade in place will tell you if they are tight, wobble or in good shape. They should turn freely without any wobble. If they don't than replace the bearings for the wheels. The tires should be free of any cracking and not loose in any spots around the wheel. The Overhaul Bandsaw Tune Up Kit includes the upper and lower wheel assemblies. Another option would be to replace just the bearings on these assemblies. I have not needed to replace these bearings on a Bandsaw so I do not know how difficult that task may be. As for any squealing the back up bearings in either kit should take care of that. As for the tires I agree with Ed. I have the other tires on my Bandsaw but plan on replacing them with the black rubber tires when needed again.I was just wondering if I open it up and start turning the tires and bearings and stuff what to look for. Should the wheels be tight or is there supposed to be a little wobble? I remember this bandsaw working when my dad had it and i don't remember any squealing. There is a vast difference between kits on the SS website. That is why I want to be sure I need the whole overhaul kit rather that the basic kit.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.