mindpilot wrote:I will get it apart and we'll find out.
IF it is not already apart, where did your pix come from?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
This would be a good time to actually remove the Pinion Assembly and Quill Return spring for a good cleaning. Sometimes sawdust gets into the spring housing and causes it to not allow the quill to extend all the way. The more sawdust in it the less room there is for the spring action. Keep us posted on your progress.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
In the picture the JPG labeled "looks mashed" should be a domed washer, and in the picture it looks like it is either mashed or simply the wrong part.
BTW we have been instructed to not to clamp the wound spring when the quill is out. I think it was perhaps Nick that mentioned that. Before that I too did it that way but have sense changed my ways.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I'm going get a new feed assembly ordered. In addition to the wear on the gear, the spring feels kind of weak, and that washer was distorted to the point that I had to cut it. It wouldn't slip over the key in the shaft.
The new quill is a tight fit and doesn't move smoothly, but I think at this point I just need to work a little more with polishing up the bore.
JPG's "Whatsat" is also present on my casting. The metal is comparatively bright near the top where the outside wall meets the thick part around the Quill. It is in the background in the OP's picture. I looked in another thread where it was not present. Maybe a Rev C headstock feature?
reible wrote:BTW we have been instructed to not to clamp the wound spring when the quill is out. I think it was perhaps Nick that mentioned that. Before that I too did it that way but have sense changed my ways.
Do you recall why? I'm just curious. I always thought it was 'do it either way depending on if you want to check the pretension.' Only thing I can think of is to keep it from snapping back if you forget to release it gradually.
The tip about the quill missing and the locking the spring was a long while back and I don't recall if they said why. Nick use to go out to the service area and bring back tips on and off. An advanced search might locate it??
A couple of other points, I would get a cotton q-tip and run it along the top of the quill where the slot is. The fibers catch on very small burrs that might be there. Once found and filed off the q-tip should not catch any fibers anywhere.
The quill needs to be waxed. Wax on let it dry then polish off. I would do this at least twice to make sure it was waxed everywhere. A tooth brush works well for the area with the teeth.
The quill is a harder materal then the gear so pretty much every time you put a new quill in you will get some small bits of metal wear off. I wouldn't think the gear needs replacing. A good cleaning and again you can check for burrs and file them off if they exist.
The spring is wound and you can wind it how you want it. If it is not returning the way you want an extra half or full turn should fix that. I've not found a sping that was "weak", not saying they don't exist but that I have not come across one in that condition. I personally have preference for a little looser return for most times but also have no issue with redoing it for specific tasks.
The domed washer should have been able to go over the key, if it was deformed someone must have really tighened the quill. I don't think one can bend the ears in the head stock but then I wouldn't think you could bend the domed washer....
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
The pinion gear in the third pix look strange(worn?). Nothing like the good looking teeth in the interior view.
Also unexplained is the earlier pix that shows something in the gap off the side of the pinion gear.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
IIWM, I would replace the domed washer before PP upgrade installation.
If it will not slip past the woodruff key, the key may be removed to allow removal. Tricky but possible!
You are wise to resolve the quill issue first.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
A very uneducated guess, here, but I'm assuming the problem will be on the quill. Could it be slightly bent, or the teeth or the ways be somehow not quite straight?