Only slows/stops when something is attached

[IanT]

Okay I have been trying to diagnose this issue and get this V5 shopsmith up and working oh, I am making to make some projects. I tore the entire headstock down it appears that the motor spins freely and does not seem to be and issue, however when I add the speed control belt on put any attachments on to the shopsmith it will slow down and then throw a breaker. I noticed that some of the teeth inside of the speed control were in fact been, I was able to refile them but I will likely need a new piece, what exactly can I do to diagnose and see if I can get this up and running?

[Hobbyman2]

do you have it on slow speed ? is the belt tension set right ? is it on a extension cord and if so is it heavy enough ? what is the amp load on the breaker ? is the breaker good ? there can be a few thing to check before you get to the motor ? jmo

[JPG]

Which belt are you referring to as the speed control belt? Motor to idler pulley, or idler pulley to drive sleeve?

[DLB]

I took down some data today for reference. I was re-installing a motor in a Headstock so it was a convenient opportunity for me to do it. This is on a Emerson motor, probably not what the OP has, but it is a 1-1/8 HP Induction motor and likely to be similar. I used a clamp-on style digital Ampmeter, I measured the Blue wire which on this version is switched hot, not for any reason other than it had the most slack and I could loop it out the access hole on the back. All measurements are with no load attached to the Headstock. As far as I know this is a good headstock and I've used it extensively without issues.

No-Load current on this motor was somewhat lower than the one I measured the other day on my 510 rehab, 7.7 Vs 9.5 Amps, both without the belt. Both are Emersons, so that seems like a lot of variation. Not the intent of this post though.

Current was essentially identical between belt removed and belt installed but on Slow, 7.7 Amps.

Moving from "A" to "L" speed, current increased gradually to 8.0 Amps. At "R" in the Saw/Joint range it was 8.5 Amps. At higher speeds the current increased much more rapidly through 12.5 Amps at the stop.

- David

[Hobbyman2]

good mechanical practice is to never use more than %80 of the available current ,%80 of a 15 amp breaker wired on 14 ga awg is 14.15 amps or 14 amps rounded down respectably . at 1.5 amps per receptacle that is 9.333 or rounded down to 9 plugs on a 15 amp circuit also check/test the start capacitor with a test meter. JMO also the extension cord will make a difference , 14 ga wire = 15 amps 12 ga wire is for 20 amps, you can see where this is going a 16 0r 18 gage ext cord isnt rated for a 20 amp load ? the SS and a light will max out a 15 amp breaker , a ss and several lights or vacuum will/can
max a 20 amp breaker .good luck .

[IanT]

do you have it on slow speed ? is the belt tension set right ? is it on a extension cord and if so is it heavy enough ? what is the amp load on the breaker ? is the breaker good ? there can be a few thing to check before you get to the motor ? jmo

On fastest speed, tension I have no idea, it was on extension cord then moved direct. New house so breaker should not be an issue. Just feel frustrated I want to use this thing already!

[JPG]

do you have it on slow speed ? is the belt tension set right ? is it on a extension cord and if so is it heavy enough ? what is the amp load on the breaker ? is the breaker good ? there can be a few thing to check before you get to the motor ? jmo

On fastest speed, tension I have no idea, it was on extension cord then moved direct. New house so breaker should not be an issue. Just feel frustrated I want to use this thing already!

Ingredients for a disaster.(potential) Hope it did not cause thy problem.

Just because a breaker is 'new' does not mean it cannot be defective. However that is a confusion factor.

I think measuring current is the next step that will shed light upon the problem. If excessive, it will indicate shorted winding and help explain the breaker tripping. Do not overlook the start switch failing to open. Quill shaft rpm fall off could be due to slipping belt. Belt could be slipping due to floating sheave sticking. I know that is repetition but am doing so intentionally. With so many things to check, it is easy to overlook.

[DLB]

Fastest speed is way too fast for any attachment I know of. I think you mentioned a Bandsaw, max RPM is 1000 - 1050 depending on source, or "D" on a correct speed dial. I know you may be having problems with the speed control, but running any accessory too fast is asking for more problems. Also, general instruction is to always start the SS at slowest speed. I don't do it either, but if I was working through a CB tripping I would have to.

The problem: I don't think there is anything in your thread that confirms a Shopsmith problem, though it is clear one is suspect. The SS can draw up to 13.5 Amps continuous, and I seriously doubt that is a hard limit. So if you have anything else sharing power on the same CB you may be exceeding the trip point of the CB. Preferred is measured amps, but if you are not set up to do that we can work with the CB as a threshold as long as we know that the SS is the only thing drawing current through it. And people here are going to ask you to plug it into another circuit where it is the only drawing current and confirm it overloads another CB. At this time it remains possible that both the SS and CB are working as intended.

First thing, IMO, is to get the speed control problem resolved. If you can work around the speed control problem, then let's get the speed down to match what you are trying to do and see if the you still have a problem.

Note, JPG posted while I was writing this and I agree with him on measuring current. My suggestion is based on the assumption that you can't currently do that. If you can measure Amps, please include a description of the load conditions present with the measurement, meaning what is connected to the headstock and how fast it's turning.

- David

[IanT]

Is there a tutorial on measuring current on the unit? I have multimeters but to be honest I've never figured out how to use them as far as what to turn dial to for the setting I'm trying to measure. I have a general knowledge of electricity but I'm no expert!

As far as speed control, the only reason I had it set at fastest was a) it won't even turn at slower speeds, b) the tutorial I watched I think by Jacob Anderson on YouTube re teardown and replacement of speed control, it said to set it to the fastest speed when reinstalling.


I want to build something!

I don't know how to check correct tension, but the belt I was referring to is the one connected to the actual motor.

[JPG]

First some clarification.

Jacob said to put it at fast when reassembling because the loop is more easily installed OVER the spring clip on the porkchop. I doubt he said to energize while set to fast. He should have told you to manually adjust it back to slow before turning it on.

As for motor belt tension it should not be slack. A gentle push should create minimal deflection. I know vague.

Now as for using a multimeter to measure ac motor current. You have several? How many have an AC current scale setting greater than 20 A? Are you comfortable with attaching the multimeter leads to bare wires that are hot? Are all those multimeters digital? - - - - I recommend obtaining a clamp on AC ammeter for that measurement. A friendly electrician would be a source. I also recommend that it be analog, not digital. Not necessary, but preferable IMO.

Now how about the poly-v belt tension? Have you adjusted the eccentric on the idler shaft to give that belt tension. Where is the slot currently positioned? 06:00 0:900 ?:???

Yes a bunch more questions than answers, but the answers to them may help us get to the answer of your mystery.