I've inherited a 1956 Mark 5 Greenie from my Great Uncle that wasn't running. I am working on restoring it and have found a wealth of information on the forums to help. Most illustrations I find are for a Mark V, so I am struggling with 4 things:
1. How to remove the gilmer drive from the headstock as i do not see a retaining ring? Is it just driven out? Afraid to do so with out knowing this is how for sure.
2. I have a shop smith logo plug / cover on the back side of the headstock that won't stay in. My uncle had attempted to put screws on the side to hold it in but that doesn't work. Any suggestions on the best way to attach it?
3. The power cord was the original 1956 cord and completed rotted out where even the sheathing of the inner wires was brittle and rotted out. So I am uncertain of the motor quality as i know it has been reworked by a local electrical company at least once. I am going to get it tested, but is it worth upgrading to a 1 1/8 hp motor? Lathe, jointer, band saw will be my primary functions. I ask this question as i had seen a post by Bill Mayo that said some of the older 3/4 hp motors were just as strong.
4. I have a retaining cap (in lieu of a washer) and a retaining ring that has to be threaded on to the shaft (like a key ring) rather than a modern version of a retaining ring. The retaining ring seems very weak and i am wondering if the shop smith mark v version retaining ring is inter-changeable.
I appreciate the help,
Mark 5 Greenie Repair Questions
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jasonriley04
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2020 9:52 am
Re: Mark 5 Greenie Repair Questions
If you look at the top few threads in this 'Maintenance' forum you'll see the one entitled 'Shopsmith Large Format Drawings...' If you open that and open "My Google Drive" you'll find a wealth of information, including old owner's guides that include a parts list and exploded view for older machines.
My old machine is slightly newer than yours and there are probably some differences. My response is based on my machine.
1) There should be a retaining ring, Spirolox type I think. If you are sure it isn't there see if you can tell if the groove is definitely there and empty before you try to pull the drive out.
2) It originally used a spring steel clip, but I don't recall how that is attached to the logo/cover. A photo here might help. Answer might depend on how faithful you want your restoration to be.
3) For myself, I found the 1-1/8 HP motor difference was most noticeable for table saw / Jointer operations. Opinions on this will be varied. My thought would be that if you have to replace the motor anyway go with the 1-1/8 HP.
4) Is this on the motor shaft? I don't know the answer, but I can tell you that if you look up specs on the snap ring type they are very specific regarding the groove dimensions. In another thread we concluded that the current standard is a SHI-62 retaining ring (Size 62 relates to a 5/8 shaft.) If you are able to accurately measure your groove I think you could determine if it would fit.
- David
My old machine is slightly newer than yours and there are probably some differences. My response is based on my machine.
1) There should be a retaining ring, Spirolox type I think. If you are sure it isn't there see if you can tell if the groove is definitely there and empty before you try to pull the drive out.
2) It originally used a spring steel clip, but I don't recall how that is attached to the logo/cover. A photo here might help. Answer might depend on how faithful you want your restoration to be.
3) For myself, I found the 1-1/8 HP motor difference was most noticeable for table saw / Jointer operations. Opinions on this will be varied. My thought would be that if you have to replace the motor anyway go with the 1-1/8 HP.
4) Is this on the motor shaft? I don't know the answer, but I can tell you that if you look up specs on the snap ring type they are very specific regarding the groove dimensions. In another thread we concluded that the current standard is a SHI-62 retaining ring (Size 62 relates to a 5/8 shaft.) If you are able to accurately measure your groove I think you could determine if it would fit.
- David
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4544
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Mark 5 Greenie Repair Questions
This will repeat a lot of what David said. There are the first three editions of the Mark 5 manuals currently available on Everett's google drive. The 3rd edition will be the closest to your Mark 5. The 5th or 6th edition would have been the edition that came with your 1956 Greenie depending on when in 1956 it was made. Everett is working on restoring more but it takes time and he is also working on other documents too.
1. There are retainers at both ends of the drive sleeve. If original, your Drive Sleeve will be the clutched version. If the belt broke because of use not wear or age there may be a problem with the clutch. This is not an easy item to work on and get back together with the correct specs. There is a guide here on the Shopsmith website on the Poly V and Gilmer belt replacement at the link below.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/pro ... cement.pdf
2. Your headstock is the "B" headstock and if the Logo/Inspection cover will not stay on because the retainer clip is bent/damaged you can replace it with another one provided the opening in the headstock casting is not damaged. Just make sure it is not for an "A" headstock that does not have the retainer or a "C" headstock which uses a screw and a pin for attachment.
3. Your Shopsmith is over 60 years old so it is not surprising the cord is brittle and braking away. You can replace the power cord and check to see how the motor is working or you can replace the motor which if used may already have a good power cord. Remember if buying used it is used so buyer be where. Any of the Mark 5 or Mark V, 3/4 or 1-1/8 HP motors will work in your Mark 5. If you get a different motor and it does not have the pulley sheaves, spring and other hardware you may have to get the correct spring retaining parts for it. The parts retaining the spring have changed over the years and some are not interchangeable. This may be an answer to your question 4 if that is the retaining parts you are referring to.
4. Need answer to David's question on this.
Pictures can be very helpful in "explaining" questions.
1. There are retainers at both ends of the drive sleeve. If original, your Drive Sleeve will be the clutched version. If the belt broke because of use not wear or age there may be a problem with the clutch. This is not an easy item to work on and get back together with the correct specs. There is a guide here on the Shopsmith website on the Poly V and Gilmer belt replacement at the link below.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/pro ... cement.pdf
2. Your headstock is the "B" headstock and if the Logo/Inspection cover will not stay on because the retainer clip is bent/damaged you can replace it with another one provided the opening in the headstock casting is not damaged. Just make sure it is not for an "A" headstock that does not have the retainer or a "C" headstock which uses a screw and a pin for attachment.
3. Your Shopsmith is over 60 years old so it is not surprising the cord is brittle and braking away. You can replace the power cord and check to see how the motor is working or you can replace the motor which if used may already have a good power cord. Remember if buying used it is used so buyer be where. Any of the Mark 5 or Mark V, 3/4 or 1-1/8 HP motors will work in your Mark 5. If you get a different motor and it does not have the pulley sheaves, spring and other hardware you may have to get the correct spring retaining parts for it. The parts retaining the spring have changed over the years and some are not interchangeable. This may be an answer to your question 4 if that is the retaining parts you are referring to.
4. Need answer to David's question on this.
Pictures can be very helpful in "explaining" questions.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.