Blade/table alignment issues

[tbolish]

I really appreciate all the advice and especially the willingness to come help out in person! I actually moved back to Los Angeles a few years ago so I’m not longer in the Chicago area. Looks like I may need to purchase some larger setup instruments...what would you guys recommend on a budget?

I’m thinking s larger machinist square, possible a quality 1 -2-3 block, and maybe a truly accurate straight edge - at least 24” long? (would also be helpful in setting up my jointer fence)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dusty]

We could set you up with a long list of items nice to have in the shop but that is not necessary to do fine woodworking (especially on a budget).

The quality square and straight edge are necessary. I good level (which could double as a straight edge) would be helpful along with quality tape measure.

Give serious consideration to a Miter Set-- https://miterset.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ij ... xwQAvD_BwE

A piece of wood (hardwood would be best) 24" long and 2" tall. Mill this to fit firmly in the miter slot. Once you have this, use it to check the rip fence for parallel to the miter slot (square to the blade). You'll be surprised how often you'll use this.

[RFGuy]

I really appreciate all the advice and especially the willingness to come help out in person! I actually moved back to Los Angeles a few years ago so I’m not longer in the Chicago area. Looks like I may need to purchase some larger setup instruments...what would you guys recommend on a budget?

I’m thinking s larger machinist square, possible a quality 1 -2-3 block, and maybe a truly accurate straight edge - at least 24” long? (would also be helpful in setting up my jointer fence)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Machinist squares are really nice but also can be spendy. Based on your pics, I think that was a 3" x 5" machinist square you currently have? My thoughts are as follows: I zoomed in on the pic you posted before and I do see a small gap between the base of the square and the miter gauge face showing perhaps an alignment error. This could be real, or could be an optical illusion from the pic. Since you already used a dial indicator to get the miter bar slot in the table to be aligned parallel to the blade, all you really need now is a good way to align your miter gauge to 90° (since miter gauge slot should be aligned to sawblade). Dusty's suggestion of a Miter Set is a good one, though it isn't cheap either. Another option is to just use your existing machinist square directly on the miter gauge. Just use it to check one side of the miter gauge face against the miter bar (rather than checking miter gauge face to the sawblade). If adjustment is needed, see if you get any better results on your next crosscut with these changes. The Miter Set just makes 90° adjustment's a snap on the miter gauge. One other comment is trying to align miter gauge face to sawblade can be problematic, at least it is for me. You need a good quality square that is long enough to cover most of the miter gauge face AND a good portion of the flat of the sawblade, BUT you have to not hit the carbide teeth on the sawblade. That latter part of getting the ideal square size that doesn't hit the sawblade teeth (so you are on the flat blade) can be a real challenge sometimes. Yes, you can rotate the sawblade and try to get the square in between teeth, etc., etc, but just saying a Miter Set or similar setup block like Dusty showed is A LOT easier to get a perfectly aligned miter gauge (IMHO).

P.S. I assume your machinist square is perfectly square? Do you have a short width board with 2 parallel edges? If so, draw a line across the face of the board while referencing one side of the board. Move up slightly on the board and switch the square to reference the other side and make a 2nd line. Are these two lines parallel? If so, then your square is good. It is always good to check assumptions, so please don't assume a square is "good".

[davebodner]

I'd say a larger machinist's square is overkill for our purposes. Get a decent try square or combination square, and it'll be useful for more than just squaring machinery.

[tbolish]

The machinist square is a Steelex D3383 Precision Square, 4-Inch I got from amazon a few years ago. I did the
draw two lines/ flip square thing along the length of the blade and it seemed pretty dead on to me.

That miter set looks pretty cool, although a bit pricey.

Im thinking of putting an order in at Taylor Tools for a straight edge and perhaps a 1-2-3 block


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dusty]

Quick and Dirty and Cheap (you already have it)

Try this to see if it gives you any assistance. Rick taught me this in a Sawdust Session years ago.

20200518_120753[1].jpg (984.22 KiB) Viewed 9798 times

Then a version of what a posted earlier and all you need is something that is adequately square to replace the aluminum setup block.

20200518_120901[1].jpg (1.29 MiB) Viewed 9798 times

[tbolish]

Well I bit the bullet and bought the standard miterset. Figured this could be useful regardless of what table saw I end up using.

Also got a kinex 750mm straight edge, as this definitely will aid in confirming my table, as well as setting up the jointer. After that I think it’s time to take a look at the miter gauge itself.

I noticed that my miter gauge sometimes slips when I’m tightening down the thumbscrew..it’s like the screw in the bottom of it is either too loose. When I tighten it the gauge itself won’t move freely though...perhaps a washer is missing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dusty]

Well I bit the bullet and bought the standard miterset. Figured this could be useful regardless of what table saw I end up using.

Also got a kinex 750mm straight edge, as this definitely will aid in confirming my table, as well as setting up the jointer. After that I think it’s time to take a look at the miter gauge itself.

I noticed that my miter gauge sometimes slips when I’m tightening down the thumbscrew..it’s like the screw in the bottom of it is either too loose. When I tighten it the gauge itself won’t move freely though...perhaps a washer is missing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hope you designated that it is for Shopsmith.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... terset.htm

[tbolish]

Well I bit the bullet and bought the standard miterset. Figured this could be useful regardless of what table saw I end up using.

Also got a kinex 750mm straight edge, as this definitely will aid in confirming my table, as well as setting up the jointer. After that I think it’s time to take a look at the miter gauge itself.

I noticed that my miter gauge sometimes slips when I’m tightening down the thumbscrew..it’s like the screw in the bottom of it is either too loose. When I tighten it the gauge itself won’t move freely though...perhaps a washer is missing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hope you designated that it is for Shopsmith.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... terset.htm

[emoji2361] ugh.

Just emailed them back and asked them to change to the SS version...hopefully it works out.

Just got back to my garage and noticed what I think may be causing the issues with my SS miter gauge.
Here’s the exploded diagram from my 510 manual of the miter gauge - mine definitely looks different from what this is saying


part 282: nylock machine screw...mine definitely is not a nykock one. It’s just a regular screw apparently.

Part 277 - special washer...there should be two, one on top of the miter gauge bar for the nykock machine screw and the miter stud. I have two different sized washers here...


And finally, part 268 - washer....there should be two, both under the lock knob. It appears I only have one.

I swapped the two thinner washers up to be under the lock knob and I added a 1/4” washer to the miter stud that is similar in thickness to the one on the big “nylock machine screw”





Speaking of that machine screw that’s is the pivot of the gauge - it always seems to back itself out of tighten itself depending on which direction you turn the face. I added some graphite under the gauge to help it slide when changing angles.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tbolish]

Well I think that fixed it enough to be accurate enough for government work! Turns out the miter gauge was setup incorrectly. Sometimes it just helps to take shit apart and look at the diagram and see where things are different from factory spec I suppose.

Before:


After:




Really want to thank all of you guys for your insight and advice!

Now...I think I might cancel my Incra gauge order I placed a couple months ago. Might not be as necessary as I thought.

Side note - the MiterSet folks are really nice and canceled my order of that very quickly and even called to let me know why when I requested a shopsmith version. Apparently it’s been licensed to shopsmith directly so you have to order from them (meaning you won’t be getting it for what may be a few months without any explanation from their customer service)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk