Power Pro control panel question

[mindpilot]

Been using my newly upgraded Power Pro for about a week now. So far running pretty good but I'm still trying to get used to the whole On & Confirm sequence.

I find the controls are either a little unresponsive, or I'm not used to how hard they have to be pushed. All of the control buttons--unless I happen to hit it just right, and I've yet to figure out what "just right" is--I have to hit two or three times before anything happens.

When an OFF (it should be labeled STOP) button is no bigger, more visible, or more accessible than any of the others and takes three presses before the blade stops spinning, I'm not real comfortable with that.

So with that in mind how much risk is there to the life of the electronics if I use the main power switch when the Off button becomes unresponsive? Even when turned off normally, it returns a erroneous "low power" message. Seems like the programming should know the difference between actual poorly conditioned power, and being turned off.

I don't want to use a heavy hand; we've all seen the microwave with the fingertip-shaped hole in the start button. Those membrane-style switches are not known for their durability.

The question is then, do I have a bad control panel? (not likely since all the buttons have the same feel) Is this a programming issue, or is it a possible defect in the control electronics?

[reible]

Did you peal off the protective cover?

I have two of these and do not see your issue with them. IE they are responsive and no double/triple pushers needed. So far the panel is holding up well.

Ed

[jsburger]

Been using my newly upgraded Power Pro for about a week now. So far running pretty good but I'm still trying to get used to the whole On & Confirm sequence.

I find the controls are either a little unresponsive, or I'm not used to how hard they have to be pushed. All of the control buttons--unless I happen to hit it just right, and I've yet to figure out what "just right" is--I have to hit two or three times before anything happens.

When an OFF (it should be labeled STOP) button is no bigger, more visible, or more accessible than any of the others and takes three presses before the blade stops spinning, I'm not real comfortable with that.

So with that in mind how much risk is there to the life of the electronics if I use the main power switch when the Off button becomes unresponsive? Even when turned off normally, it returns a erroneous "low power" message. Seems like the programming should know the difference between actual poorly conditioned power, and being turned off.

I don't want to use a heavy hand; we've all seen the microwave with the fingertip-shaped hole in the start button. Those membrane-style switches are not known for their durability.

As far as using the main power switch I don't know. It probably won't hurt but I wouldn't do it. Besides when you turn it back on the computer has to go through the boot up process slowing down the on cycle considerably.

The question is then, do I have a bad control panel? (not likely since all the buttons have the same feel) Is this a programming issue, or is it a possible defect in the control electronics?

I have had my Power Pro since January 2013. I have not seen what you are describing. I would say since the buttons are small you have to pay attention and hit them on center. I have had many many items with membrane buttons over the years and have never had the control panel fail let alone the membrane.

The "low power" message is not erroneous. Mine does it too. The power supply that runs the computer has a DC output. The output of the power supply has smoothing capacitors on the output. They hold a voltage for a certain amount of time after you turn off the AC switch. The computer has no way of knowing if it was you that threw the switch or it really is a power line problem. Once the voltage goes below a certain threshold, regardless of the cause, the low voltage message will appear.

I doubt you have a bad control panel but I guess it could be possible. I suggest concentrating on hitting the buttons in the center. Once you get the hang of it it will become second nature. The SS control panel actually has raised buttons and a tactile feel. They actually click when pushed.

Again, I don't have a problem and certainly don't have to push hard at all.

[mindpilot]

Thank you for the responses! It appears to be I just need to get used to the feel. I worked in an environment where I got conditioned to touch screen stuff so tactile controls are a little counter intuitive for me.

Just because there is now time to think about such things, to discriminate between power problem and power off, monitor the continuity between ground and neutral. If that is interrupted at the same time the line voltage falls to zero, then it is a switch off.

So thanks again!!

[Ed in Tampa]

Just remember pressing a membrane switch harder is not the answer. That will wear it out. Learn to just barely touch it but make sure you are centered on the switch.

[garys]

This reminds me of the touchscreen on a tablet I have. If I don't press it hard enough or long enough, it doesn't respond. If I press it too long or too hard, it goes spastic. Some days if my fingers are cold, it won't respond at all. It might just be the nature of today's gadgets that don't have real switches. The machine can't figure out what we want so it messes up.

I love a mechanical switch. When I turn it off, it is off. When I turn it on, it will be on unless it has passed its rated thousands of cycles and the contacts are burned. If that happens, a cheap replacement switch makes things new again.

[bainin]

I did not have this issue with the buttons on my PP control panel which I purchased used, and I believe a lot older than yours.

I don't know if there is a way to have a look at the inner workings of the keypad by taking the keypad unit out and disassembling from the backside?

Worst case, you could purchase a new keypad unit from SS.

b

[JPG]

Touch - tactile - feedback - - - - we have created a monster similar to digital(5 switch) joy sticks. [Atari] [Pac Man] [Donkey Cong] . . . . . .

This old codger is programmed to respond to analog devices. Want to go farther, push farther. Want to slow down, back off.

Consistent response regardless of time(i.e. scrolling same speed regardless of time).

So fortunately my days are numbered and I will eventually leave all this frustration behind.

[DLB]

JPG's response contains an interesting nugget. How does it respond to scrolling? Specifically, if you press and hold the up or down key to select RPM does the system respond smoothly as opposed to erratically? Is it the same regardless of whether the motor is turning? This is not a linear response, just looking for smooth and consistent. If something is glitchy I'm thinking it might show up here.

Mine takes about 12 seconds to scroll from 500 to 5000, or 5000 to 500, with the motor off. With the motor turning it took about twice that long.

Since the OP's system is a new DIY upgrade, I don't think disassembly is the best course. If the system isn't right I'd probably set up an engineering appointment with SS to discuss it. It's likely to be something they've seen before. Like others have indicated, I think the learning curve for this is minimal.

- David

[mindpilot]

Hi David,

I just checked and yes the scrolling is smooth and consistent, in about the same times.