curmudgeon wrote:
What should I do now?
- run it with grease and use oil next time
- clean out the grease and replace with oil now
- or...
I would just wipe off all the grease you can and apply a few drops of turbine oil. After a short time of running wipe it off again and add a bit more oil. Just don't over oil it. The grease won't really hurt it.
Thanks for the advice John. I'll replace the grease with turbine oil before reassembling. Is AeroShell 500 suitable?
-Steve
I would guess it is fine but I don't use anything that fancy. I think this is what most of us use.
Of course it might be a different brand depending where you buy it. If you notice it says on the label it is good for cooler bearings. They are talking about vaporative coolers ("swamp Coolers") out here in the west. They have the same sintered bronze bushings as the 10ER speed changer. The other advantage is the zoom spout. It pulls out about 4" so it is great for reaching inside the head stock to oil the floating sheaves.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Awesome! Thanks for a specific product link. It's not carried in-store locally, but I ordered it online for pickup in store - should be here in 2 weeks.
Model 10E - S/N 21240
Now running and drilling holes with a nice bench to sit on.
reible wrote:Around my area the Ace Hardware store carries it too.
Good to know, Ed. Thanks.
The Canadian, Ace Hardware website doesn't list it, but it is on the American site. Nearest Ace Hardware is about a 40 minute drive, and I can walk to Home Depot quicker.
Model 10E - S/N 21240
Now running and drilling holes with a nice bench to sit on.
Most of this topic has dealt with the sintered bronze bushings that are pressed into the Floating Pulley Assembly which turns on the Arm's shaft. Already good information on lubrication for that. I use light oil too. The other location needing some kind of lubrication is in the Floating Pulley Assembly itself. This is what I believe the second poster on this thread lyall was referring to. The floating center of the Pulley Assembly slides back and forth on the hollow shaft. It needs to be lubricated to keep it from "freezing up". lyall was suggesting powered graphite. I use white lithium grease being careful not to get too much on it and wiping off any excess as I reassemble the Pulley Assembly. Care is taken so grease does not get on the belt. Others may have different suggestions on a lubricant for this.
Several of the Speed Changers I have restored have had the center pulley sheave stuck on the shaft. Other have had worn bushings. Proper lubrication will prevent this from happening.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
chapmanruss wrote:Most of this topic has dealt with the sintered bronze bushings that are pressed into the Floating Pulley Assembly which turns on the Arm's shaft. Already good information on lubrication for that. I use light oil too. The other location needing some kind of lubrication is in the Floating Pulley Assembly itself. This is what I believe the second poster on this thread lyall was referring to. The floating center of the Pulley Assembly slides back and forth on the hollow shaft. It needs to be lubricated to keep it from "freezing up". lyall was suggesting powered graphite. I use white lithium grease being careful not to get too much on it and wiping off any excess as I reassemble the Pulley Assembly. Care is taken so grease does not get on the belt. Others may have different suggestions on a lubricant for this.
Several of the Speed Changers I have restored have had the center pulley sheave stuck on the shaft. Other have had worn bushings. Proper lubrication will prevent this from happening.
Thanks Russ,
Funny... the manual says to use a "light, non-gumming oil" for the pulley assembly and forum wisdom advises powdered graphite or white lithium grease, and the manual says to use "a good grade of cup grease" for the bearing while the forum advises turbine oil. Of course I've done both backwards.
-Steve
Model 10E - S/N 21240
Now running and drilling holes with a nice bench to sit on.
chapmanruss wrote:Most of this topic has dealt with the sintered bronze bushings that are pressed into the Floating Pulley Assembly which turns on the Arm's shaft. Already good information on lubrication for that. I use light oil too. The other location needing some kind of lubrication is in the Floating Pulley Assembly itself. This is what I believe the second poster on this thread lyall was referring to. The floating center of the Pulley Assembly slides back and forth on the hollow shaft. It needs to be lubricated to keep it from "freezing up". lyall was suggesting powered graphite. I use white lithium grease being careful not to get too much on it and wiping off any excess as I reassemble the Pulley Assembly. Care is taken so grease does not get on the belt. Others may have different suggestions on a lubricant for this.
Several of the Speed Changers I have restored have had the center pulley sheave stuck on the shaft. Other have had worn bushings. Proper lubrication will prevent this from happening.
Thanks Russ,
Funny... the manual says to use a "light, non-gumming oil" for the pulley assembly and forum wisdom advises powdered graphite or white lithium grease, and the manual says to use "a good grade of cup grease" for the bearing while the forum advises turbine oil. Of course I've done both backwards.
-Steve
I use turbine oil for both. One thing to remember, that manual was written over 70 years ago. A lot has changed with lubricants in the last 70 years.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
The Model 10 Manuals also tell you to use a light coat of oil on the Way Tubes and other metal parts for lubrication and protection. We now know it is better to use paste wax for that. As John said a lot has changed in 70 years. Oil or white grease on the sleeve is up to you as both work. The advantage of using oil is you do not have to disassemble the Pulley Assembly to re-lubricate. Oil only for the bronze bearings. The important thing is to have them lubricated.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
That ain't the type of turbine that comes to my mind when recommending 'turbine' oil. However if the viscosity is close to SAE#10 it should do very well.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
How hot should the Speed Changer bearing get while running?
I ran my 10E for the first time this week, less than 10 minutes continuous while I experimented with changing speeds (always while shafts are turning by hand or by motor), and drilling a test hole. The motor and headstock castings were all cold to the touch, but the Speed Changer was quite warm (not hot), but warmer than I expected it would be.
I'm hoping my turbine oil will arrive this week and I can replace the grease in the bearing.
Model 10E - S/N 21240
Now running and drilling holes with a nice bench to sit on.
