Good Show.
Route a miter slot in a piece of wood. Square one edge to the miter slot. Check it for accuracy and you have your own 90 degree miter set. OR
Like I said earlier use the miter slot and the front rail on your Shopsmith. I believe you will find it to be quite accurate.
Blade/table alignment issues
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- dusty
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Re: Blade/table alignment issues
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Blade/table alignment issues
Whooooeeeee! Y'all really had a ride on this thread when I was 'elsewhere'.
As usual the 'discussion' went on anything but a linear path.
All this discussion regarding three different alignment issues but not discussed separately.
A lesson to be revealed here is that one's references need to be consistent.
The trick by using a board with non-parallel edges is an example. The square check also using different edges is another.(tis better to flip the square along one(straight) edge).
I find it amusing that the final step was something suggested by Reible a ways back.
My favorite cross cut check is simple. Using a board with a straight edge(that reference thingie again), make a cross cut. Then set the just cut ends on a flat surface(the saw table will do) with the edge of the boards that was against the miter gauge(reference again) facing each other any out of squareness will be apparent since it will be doubled. FWIW I have also found the set against the front rail method to be essentially as accurate.
One omission is that the miter gauge bar may not be straight due to the slot and locking screw in that area.
All three alignments are necessary for accuracy, but they are three different adjustments that MAY interfere with each other, but that usually only occurs when they are NOT aligned properly.
One thing ignored was the vertical squareness of the face of the miter gauge(those pesky washers and the glides causing the bar to rock).
Y'all had so much fun with this I just had to add my 2¢.
Glad Tbolish has overcome a 10yr old 'problem'.
As usual the 'discussion' went on anything but a linear path.
All this discussion regarding three different alignment issues but not discussed separately.
A lesson to be revealed here is that one's references need to be consistent.
The trick by using a board with non-parallel edges is an example. The square check also using different edges is another.(tis better to flip the square along one(straight) edge).
I find it amusing that the final step was something suggested by Reible a ways back.
My favorite cross cut check is simple. Using a board with a straight edge(that reference thingie again), make a cross cut. Then set the just cut ends on a flat surface(the saw table will do) with the edge of the boards that was against the miter gauge(reference again) facing each other any out of squareness will be apparent since it will be doubled. FWIW I have also found the set against the front rail method to be essentially as accurate.
One omission is that the miter gauge bar may not be straight due to the slot and locking screw in that area.
All three alignments are necessary for accuracy, but they are three different adjustments that MAY interfere with each other, but that usually only occurs when they are NOT aligned properly.
One thing ignored was the vertical squareness of the face of the miter gauge(those pesky washers and the glides causing the bar to rock).
Y'all had so much fun with this I just had to add my 2¢.
Glad Tbolish has overcome a 10yr old 'problem'.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Blade/table alignment issues
[
Glad Tbolish has overcome a 10yr old 'problem'.[/quote]
Are you trolling me here?
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Glad Tbolish has overcome a 10yr old 'problem'.[/quote]
Are you trolling me here?
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Blade/table alignment issues
You stated that getting square cuts was something that has eluded you for ten years.
You ain't no fish and I ain't no fisherman.
You ain't no fish and I ain't no fisherman.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange