First off, thanks for the amazing resources provided through this site. I recently purchased a Mark V (1982) and have gone through the relevant Sawdust Sessions prior to firing it up for the first time - very helpful!
Everything appears to be in great working condition after clearing away years of dust, gunk, and grime.
I just have a couple of questions as I do the reassembly (my apologies if I somehow missed these in the videos).
#1) What and where should I grease and oil?
#2) How far off of the motor should the fan sheave be secured?
A Couple Repair Questions
Moderator: admin
Welcome to the forums. I am very new around here myself, so this is something that I just did on my newly acquired 1996 SS510.
I used the following videos:
Cleaning & Lubricating the Mark V
Cleaning & Inspection
Lastly, I think this video might have the information you are looking for in regards to the sheaves:
Replacing & Tensioning the Poly-V/Gilmer Belt
The former two are the videos I am primarily utilizing to build a "Preventive Maintenance" sheet for my Mark V. Since my Mark V only came with the "Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone" book, I was a bit in the dark on how to proceed. Also, since I have had to spend my time, and extremely slim "discretionary" income on a rip fence and miter gauge because these items were ALSO missing, I have not been able to purchase the manual for my SS yet. I really wish that at LEAST the manual were down loadable. I don't need fancy hole-punched sheets. I can print a PDF file just fine. I understand charging for PTWFE, and for the Self Study Guide, but the manual? In my opinion, not making the manual freely available potentially opens up Shopsmith to potential (and unnecessary) liabilities in our litigious society.
I used the following videos:
Cleaning & Lubricating the Mark V
Cleaning & Inspection
Lastly, I think this video might have the information you are looking for in regards to the sheaves:
Replacing & Tensioning the Poly-V/Gilmer Belt
The former two are the videos I am primarily utilizing to build a "Preventive Maintenance" sheet for my Mark V. Since my Mark V only came with the "Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone" book, I was a bit in the dark on how to proceed. Also, since I have had to spend my time, and extremely slim "discretionary" income on a rip fence and miter gauge because these items were ALSO missing, I have not been able to purchase the manual for my SS yet. I really wish that at LEAST the manual were down loadable. I don't need fancy hole-punched sheets. I can print a PDF file just fine. I understand charging for PTWFE, and for the Self Study Guide, but the manual? In my opinion, not making the manual freely available potentially opens up Shopsmith to potential (and unnecessary) liabilities in our litigious society.
-Jason
1996 Mark V Model 510, & Bandsaw, Bosch 1617 fixed/plunge router & RA1171 Router Table, Ryobi 10" Compound Miter Saw & Ryobi 6" disk/12" belt sander combo.
1996 Mark V Model 510, & Bandsaw, Bosch 1617 fixed/plunge router & RA1171 Router Table, Ryobi 10" Compound Miter Saw & Ryobi 6" disk/12" belt sander combo.
Repair Question
#1 has been covered in previous post. I am using the Zoom Sprout Turbine Oil for lubication. I recommend 6 drops of oil in the control sheave with the speed control set to FAST.
#2 There is Sheave Spacer (504205 #124 $1.45) that the fan sheave rests tightly againest for the the correct spacing. You must use this spacer as you cannot tighten the fan sheave set screw to prevent the fan sheave from moving toward the motor bearing without this spacer. There is a lot of pressure againest the fan sheave with the belt being forced in and out as the speed is changed. Since I have found a few loose fan sheave set screws which allows the Fan sheave to wobble resulting in a damaged motor shaft and fan sheave, I have been using blue LocTite on this set screw.
#2 There is Sheave Spacer (504205 #124 $1.45) that the fan sheave rests tightly againest for the the correct spacing. You must use this spacer as you cannot tighten the fan sheave set screw to prevent the fan sheave from moving toward the motor bearing without this spacer. There is a lot of pressure againest the fan sheave with the belt being forced in and out as the speed is changed. Since I have found a few loose fan sheave set screws which allows the Fan sheave to wobble resulting in a damaged motor shaft and fan sheave, I have been using blue LocTite on this set screw.
nebraska wrote:First off, thanks for the amazing resources provided through this site. I recently purchased a Mark V (1982) and have gone through the relevant Sawdust Sessions prior to firing it up for the first time - very helpful!
Everything appears to be in great working condition after clearing away years of dust, gunk, and grime.
I just have a couple of questions as I do the reassembly (my apologies if I somehow missed these in the videos).
#1) What and where should I grease and oil?
#2) How far off of the motor should the fan sheave be secured?
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
In reference to what oil, I used Hoppe's #9 oil. It's the same stuff that's used for gun lubrication <shrug>
After reading several threads, I shied away from using silicon anywhere but VERY sparingly on the quadrant assembly and worm control shaft. Next maintenance cycle though, I am going to get some graphite, and drop the silicone entirely.
I've also heard that 3-in-1 oil works quite well as well. I have some, but I thought that since the Hoppe's worked so well on weaponry, it would be OK for the SS.
After reading several threads, I shied away from using silicon anywhere but VERY sparingly on the quadrant assembly and worm control shaft. Next maintenance cycle though, I am going to get some graphite, and drop the silicone entirely.
I've also heard that 3-in-1 oil works quite well as well. I have some, but I thought that since the Hoppe's worked so well on weaponry, it would be OK for the SS.
-Jason
1996 Mark V Model 510, & Bandsaw, Bosch 1617 fixed/plunge router & RA1171 Router Table, Ryobi 10" Compound Miter Saw & Ryobi 6" disk/12" belt sander combo.
1996 Mark V Model 510, & Bandsaw, Bosch 1617 fixed/plunge router & RA1171 Router Table, Ryobi 10" Compound Miter Saw & Ryobi 6" disk/12" belt sander combo.
Thanks for the responses, they answered all of my questions. 
In addition to the Sheave Spacer, it looks like I will be ordering a Speed Control Assembly. When I disassembled it to clean, I noticed that the Quadrant Assembly (i.e. pork chop) didn't fit snuggly into the rest of the assembly. Apparently that "slop" allowed the pork chop to sit at an angle in the Speed Control Assembly and the teeth have been warped because of that.
In addition to the Sheave Spacer, it looks like I will be ordering a Speed Control Assembly. When I disassembled it to clean, I noticed that the Quadrant Assembly (i.e. pork chop) didn't fit snuggly into the rest of the assembly. Apparently that "slop" allowed the pork chop to sit at an angle in the Speed Control Assembly and the teeth have been warped because of that.
-
JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Wobbly 'pork Chop'
A common 'problem' is caused by the sloppy fit between the pork chop pivot hole and the "roll pin" which retains it. I have seen a recommended correction by "BILL MAYO", but I do not think it was in this forum. Essentially it consisted of replacing the 'roll pin' with a bolt and sizing the holes properly to take out the "slop". The slop causes misalignment of the porkchop to the worm gear.
I think a 3/16" bolt with extended shoulder(threads only near end) was used.
This I would recommend even on a NEW set of parts so as to preclude your present problem. If this 'fix' realigns the worm gear to the porkchop it MAY allow further use.
If only the pork chop is damaged, order it only(504221)
If control assembly is also damaged, get them BOTH!(504198)
Try roll pin fix first, it MAY:) save you $$
I think a 3/16" bolt with extended shoulder(threads only near end) was used.
This I would recommend even on a NEW set of parts so as to preclude your present problem. If this 'fix' realigns the worm gear to the porkchop it MAY allow further use.
If only the pork chop is damaged, order it only(504221)
If control assembly is also damaged, get them BOTH!(504198)
Try roll pin fix first, it MAY:) save you $$
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Hmmmmm... Genius! Thanks!
jpg40504 wrote:A common 'problem' is caused by the sloppy fit between the pork chop pivot hole and the "roll pin" which retains it. I have seen a recommended correction by "BILL MAYO", but I do not think it was in this forum. Essentially it consisted of replacing the 'roll pin' with a bolt and sizing the holes properly to take out the "slop". The slop causes misalignment of the porkchop to the worm gear.
I think a 3/16" bolt with extended shoulder(threads only near end) was used.
This I would recommend even on a NEW set of parts so as to preclude your present problem. If this 'fix' realigns the worm gear to the porkchop it MAY allow further use.
If only the pork chop is damaged, order it only(504221)
If control assembly is also damaged, get them BOTH!(504198)
Try roll pin fix first, it MAY:) save you $$
