Schedule a Meeting · Talk to a real woodworker: +1 937-890-5197 · 8:00AM – 4:30PM ET

New owner, want to restore

ghouliegirl

Hi there! I'm so excited to find this forum. I have a new-to-me 1981 Mark V that has been sitting for some time. Got it for a song, so what the heck.

I'd like to restore it, but I don't really know where to begin. I'm hoping y'all can give me a little hand holding to get this figured out. I've never taken on a project like this!

So, what should I tackle first?

edma194

Ok, do you have a manual? Have you turned it on?

You need to familiarize yourself with the basic operations. Without turning it on check that the headstock can slide and lock on the rail, check the quill feed, depth control and lock, check that you can tilt up into drill press mode. While you're at it make sure the casters work properly. You also want to make sure the table and carriage will slide and lock, and the table height and lock mechanisms work.

I assume you turned it on before purchase and know that the motor runs but this is where things can get complicated. You'll see a number of threads on the forum where used machines have problems with the speed changing mechanism. I had that problem on my first Shopsmith, a 1954 Greenie.

What I do at this point is mount the big sanding disk and turn the drive shaft by hand while seeing if the speed dial will turn. If it's not down at the slowest speed you need to get it there, and remember to return it to the slowest speed after each use. But always keep the drive shaft moving while doing that. If it seems frozen or sticky at all then hold up, don't force anything.

If the speed dial mechanism has any problems I'd suggest stopping at this point to do some disassembly and cleaning. You'll want to do that soon anyway, but certainly hold off if there are any problems.

I'm sure others will chime in with advice, wait for everyone to offer what advice they have and choose what to do based on your circumstances.

Also, you may be past the point of turning it on already, previous owners like to turn it on to show you it works, sometimes making existing problems worse. But if it runs already, at least get the speed dial down to the lowest speed and look into cleaning and lubing before continuing.

JPG

Read and UNDERSTAND. https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maintenance-and-repair-f10/newowner-informaton-t7092.html

chapmanruss

You have received a lot of good information already. Follow those do's and especially don'ts. If you have a manual for it READ IT. If you do not have a manual for your Shopsmith I really advise getting a copy. Some versions are available online for free. A summary manual is available at the link below.

https://www.shopsmith.com/getting_started/500_Summary_Manual.pdf

Don't waste your money buying copies on ebay since they are mostly the same ones that can be found for free. Another good source for information is here on the forum. Check under the Maintenance and Repair section for Shopsmith Large Format Drawings, Illustrations and More by Everett Davis. This will be one of the first three topics. In it you will find a wealth of information on the Shopsmith tools. Some are directly linked there and others are on “My Google Drive” with documents too large to be directly linked. Everett has become the Shopsmith historian by saving and restoring manuals and other documents.

We can help you with restoring it. Any questions, just ask.

Spooner

And pictures!!! Lots and lots of Pictures!!! Before after and during!!! Pictures pictures pictures!!!

ghouliegirl

Y'all are awesome! I'm doing some reading and checking out past posts.

Thank you! I'll post updates as they occur.

chapmanruss

If your restoration includes painting parts than the Paint from here on the Shopsmith site in the catalog at the following link is a good but a bit spendy choice.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/mvmaint_touchuppaint.htm

Gray P/N 505706 is a perfect type and color match to the gray paint on your 1981 Mark V if the paint hasn't faded over the years. With it you can make your Mark V look like new. Your other option is to pick a color of paint or paints and make it truly your own.

Unless your Mark V has been upgraded it has the original Table System later known as the Mark V 500 starting in 1985 and the single bearing Quill. If you have any problems with the Quill or table parts you will have to decide if you want to upgrade or replace parts some of which are only available used. Shopsmith no longer makes replacement parts for the original/500 table system and few if any are left in stock. If the Quill bearing needs replacement they are usually found at a bearing supply location locally.

ghouliegirl

Starting small.

Could anyone tell me how I would get the rust off of these? Steel brush?

Spooner

Well ghouliegirl you could replace them with new ones.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/coupler_hubs.htm

They are not overly expensive. Or even used ones off of eBay. However if you're wishing to keep as much of you Mark V as original as possible I'd recommend removing them and cleaning them individually. Maybe use some rust dissolver gel like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TQW5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Brush it on with a bush, let it sit then wipe it off.

I think a wire brush could misinform them to a degree so I'd use a softer approach.

Guys if i'm wrong chime in.

edma194

Take them off the spindles. They're each attached with your 5/32" set screws. A 5/32" allen wrench is your Shopsmith toolbox. Then soak them in Evapo-Rust. Definitely the best way to remove rust for small items.

Chad

edma194 wroteTake them off the spindles. They're each attached with your 5/32" set screws. A 5/32" allen wrench is your Shopsmith toolbox. Then soak them in Evapo-Rust. Definitely the best way to remove rust for small items.

Or white distilled vinegar.

JPG

edma194 wroteTake them off the spindles. They're each attached with your 5/32" set screws. A 5/32" allen wrench is your Shopsmith toolbox. Then soak them in Evapo-Rust. Definitely the best way to remove rust for small items.

AMEN!!!! Soak with set screws(black oxide ones) out.

P.S. Vinegar is acid(albeit a weak one).

Evaporust works so well and so fast and removes NOTHING but rust(no base material).

Chad

True, white distilled vinegar is a acid (regular grocery store is weak), but it will not hurt the base material (in this case steel). It will remove the rust, and turn the steel a dual black finish (similar to a dual black oxide finish). Plus, it is not toxic. Naval jelly also works well, but a bit more difficult to apply to small, hard to access areas.

ShoptimusPrime

I'd recommend evaporust over anything else. Take them off and soak them in a plastic bottle cut in half. Come back in 30 mins or an hour or even them next day and your done. The stuff is amazing. You can get it on your hands and it won't burn you like navel jelly, and after you're done with your current part you can put it back in the jug and use it again and again. I have been using my original gallon jug for over a year now and it is still going strong. I just got done soaking the way tubes on my second full restore/restoration. The tubes only took 2 hrs to get completely free of rust.

I'd also recommend taking apart the headstock and giving it a thorough cleaning after you are familiar with using it. Bill Mayo has a great upgrade to the speed control module. I've used it on three headstocks and about to upgrade a forth. Helps keep the worm gear in the center of the "pork chop." I also find it useful to take apart the speed control assembly and clean and wax the backside of the dial and headstock. It helps to reduce friction and sawdust build up. Waxing the paint on the headstock also helps with keeping sawdust from piling up. Johnson's paste wax is going to be used a lot in keeping your shopsmith working great. I picked up a digital tachometer from harbor freight to adjust the speed controller after taking it apart. I think they are less than $20.

If the quill is a little sticky it might need a good cleaning and waxing. The channel in the headstock can also be gunked up with old wax or grease. I've had to clean several headstock's where axle grease was used and it hardened. Just make sure to carefully and slowly release the tension on the quil. 3 or 4 turns should be about right to reset the tension when you reinsert the quill.

everettdavis

edma194 wroteTake them off the spindles. They're each attached with your 5/32" set screws. A 5/32" allen wrench is your Shopsmith toolbox. Then soak them in Evapo-Rust. Definitely the best way to remove rust for small items.

That’s exactly what I would do. Evapo-Rust is even available at Harbor Freight. It is re-usable. Just pour it through a good coffee filter after you clean your parts and store it in a different sealed container.

You can use it over a number of times.

Part should be free of oils, buildups, and loose rust. Clean it and lightly brush off rust scale with a soft brass brush. Then use Evapo-Rust and it will last longer.

Cover it when soaking parts. The Evapo portion of the name tells you it will evaporate faster if not covered.

Everett

ghouliegirl

I finally had a minute to do some work, and though I was able to loosen the set screw on the top spindle, I am not able to get the hub off, and I can't turn the screw at all on the bottom hub. I'm guessing probably also due to rust. What's the best way to get those things moving? WD-40? Spray with evapo-rust? Silicone spray? I can't get them to budge one iota.

BuckeyeDennis

You need some penetrating oil for that job. Regular WD-40 is not a substitute, although they do now have a penetrating oil called "WD-40 Specialist Penetrant". PB Blaster is good stuff, and generally easy to find locally at hardware stores and such.

Apply it to all the seams and down the set screw holes, and let it soak for a day or three, replenishing as it soaks in.

JPG

Fill the set screw hole with evaporust.

let it work over nite.

Get a new GOOD quality allen wrench.

Apply extra torque with a longer 'lever arm'.

'Might' work. ;)

If not there are other 'tricks'.

edma194

Lightly tap on the hubs once in a while to help get them loose after you use the penetrating oil. Tap lightly! You're trying to get them to vibrate, not knock them loose.

ShoptimusPrime

I might try sewing machine oil and let it sit for a day or two. I like the suggestion of putting evaporust in the screw hole as well. If it doesn't move after that a few light taps might be in order. For the bottom, use a socket to apply even pressure on the hub as you tap. Use an old 2x4 or other "soft hammer" to do this, a steel hammer will have to much momentum and you might risk damaging the bearings.

Resist the urge to use a wrench or channel locks to force it off. Might be able to make a set of wooden wedges you can force on the sides of the hub to apply pressure against the back cover and push the hub off a little.