I broke it. How bad is it?

[DLB]

In replacing the switch you have several choices. Best to start by seeing how it is currently wired, there is some variation. Most, I think, Shopsmiths switch both neutral and hot, meaning that you will see two black and two white wires going to the switch. Some configurations don't switch neutral, so only the black wires go to the switch. And you can get a plain rocker switch for a bit less money than the safety type. On some original switches the wire connection is made at the end of a short wire that is integrated with the switch. I'm guessing those are hard to find, but not necessary.

I recommend getting a 'motor rated' switch for at least the 1-1/8 HP motor rating. If you want a removable key, the one SS sells now is much nicer, IMO, than some of the old ones. I recently switched one to the rocker type (no removable key) from ebay and can look that up if you want it. It is in another thread here.

You ended up with an exceptionally good deal on this. I'm taking notes.

- David

[lobuzz311]

Regardless of what chisels thee gets, do some research on sharpening them in the meantime.

They ain't really sharp when you get them.

Yeah, I've been researching that quite a bit. Not sure if it's worth getting the sharpening system or just getting a feel for doing it free-hand on my bench grinder.
I picked up a NOS 5 piece set of vintage Craftsman chisels on CL for 15 bucks, so I don't have a problem "ruining" them by practicing sharpening at that price.

In replacing the switch you have several choices. Best to start by seeing how it is currently wired, there is some variation. Most, I think, Shopsmiths switch both neutral and hot, meaning that you will see two black and two white wires going to the switch. Some configurations don't switch neutral, so only the black wires go to the switch. And you can get a plain rocker switch for a bit less money than the safety type. On some original switches the wire connection is made at the end of a short wire that is integrated with the switch. I'm guessing those are hard to find, but not necessary.

I recommend getting a 'motor rated' switch for at least the 1-1/8 HP motor rating. If you want a removable key, the one SS sells now is much nicer, IMO, than some of the old ones. I recently switched one to the rocker type (no removable key) from ebay and can look that up if you want it. It is in another thread here.

You ended up with an exceptionally good deal on this. I'm taking notes.

- David

Thanks for the info. Switch has 4 wires going into it, 2 white / 2 black, as you stated. Wires were in fact integrated into the switch, so I will need to fab up some pigtails.
This is the switch I'm planning on getting (the same one recommended / sold by Jacob Anderson, but at half his cost.) https://www.grainger.com/product/POWER- ... itch-2LNE9

And yes, I made out like a bandit!

[DLB]

2LNE9 is the one I used, too. I just bought it from the lowest price seller on ebay. It's important to have good wire routing and retention to avoid wire chaffing due to the moving parts in close proximity. You want to try to replicate that factory look for wire routing.

- David