GE motor housing reattachment?

[mbrand2]

How can I reinsert the 4 hex nuts into their recesses in the front housing (1 shown circled in yellow) and the 4 long screw rods to reattach the rear housing cover? Unable to find any previous resources for this online. I took the motor apart to clean it out and investigate why the fan blades scrape against the front housing. Any help will be much appreciated.

Shopsmith Motor housing.jpg (119.61 KiB) Viewed 2143 times

GE motor plate.jpg (233.81 KiB) Viewed 2143 times

Shopsmith Mark V model 500
GE 3/4HP - model 5KC39NG 202 - 110V

Michael Brand
Grapevine, TX
new forum member

[RFGuy]

Are they nuts or bolts that need to be inserted? Wondering if you could use a right angle screwdriver with the appropriate bit:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Rat ... 0683&psc=1

[DLB]

I don't have this specific motor, but I think you need to remove the sheaves and associated parts from the motor shaft to gain clear access. Part of my thinking is that you need to do this anyway to resolve the original problem. You'd start by compressing the spring and removing the snap ring from the end of the shaft. If you've never done this, there are other threads and videos to help. The spring is under a fair amount of tension so check out instructions first. That will get the spring, washer or cup, snap ring, and floating sheave off. Then there is a set screw to remove the fan sheave. Once the fan sheave is off I think you should have good access.

Between the fan sheave and motor bearing is a spacer that correctly distances the fan sheave from the motor. Your fan sheave appears to be too close, clearly it has been in contact. Sometimes that spacer has worn. Because this is a very old motor it is more likely that the spacer has become embedded in the fan sheave. Either way, you'll want to resolve this problem prior to reassembly.

Is this 3/4 HP motor original? It is old, consistent with either a Greenie or some early Goldies. Only reason I ask is that you describe your Mark as a Model 500. Shopsmith went to 1-1/8 HP motors in 1962.

- David

[mbrand2]

Are they nuts or bolts that need to be inserted? Wondering if you could use a right angle screwdriver with the appropriate bit:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Rat ... 0683&psc=1

They're hex nuts that attach to the long screws that hold the housing together. That is a cool screwdriver though. I'll keep in mind. Thanks for help.
MB

[mbrand2]

I don't have this specific motor, but I think you need to remove the sheaves and associated parts from the motor shaft to gain clear access. Part of my thinking is that you need to do this anyway to resolve the original problem. You'd start by compressing the spring and removing the snap ring from the end of the shaft. If you've never done this, there are other threads and videos to help. The spring is under a fair amount of tension so check out instructions first. That will get the spring, washer or cup, snap ring, and floating sheave off. Then there is a set screw to remove the fan sheave. Once the fan sheave is off I think you should have good access.

Between the fan sheave and motor bearing is a spacer that correctly distances the fan sheave from the motor. Your fan sheave appears to be too close, clearly it has been in contact. Sometimes that spacer has worn. Because this is a very old motor it is more likely that the spacer has become embedded in the fan sheave. Either way, you'll want to resolve this problem prior to reassembly.

Is this 3/4 HP motor original? It is old, consistent with either a Greenie or some early Goldies. Only reason I ask is that you describe your Mark as a Model 500. Shopsmith went to 1-1/8 HP motors in 1962.

- David

I think you're right, I will remove the sheaves. I'll check for that spacer. Yes, it's a 3/4 HP original motor in a Greenie Mark V from 1955.
Thanks for help and advice.
MB

[mbrand2]

Now the slotted "nut" holding on the spring won't come off, even after removing the small Allen nut. I used a board with hole drilled in it to push down the spring around it, but I can't get this end piece off, even with vice grips. I thought it would lift right off after removing the Allen nut.

Axle nut.jpg (96.69 KiB) Viewed 2100 times

[edma194]

Be careful. I can tell you from experience that hub on the end might come shooting off at any moment.

[mbrand2]

Be careful. I can tell you from experience that hub on the end might come shooting off at any moment.

Yes indeed, I'm being very careful with it. I can tell the strenth in that spring when I press it down. FYI, I used a couple of wire loops around the end of my press-down board wrapped around my vice to keep the spring compressed while I removed (and reinserted) that Allen nut.
MB

[br549]

Isn't that a coupling hub with the allen head set screw? TYPICALLY, it needs to come off before you compress the spring. Once the spring is compressed and held down, then the retaining ring and washer are removed, which keeps the spring from flying off.

Just in case your retaining ring and/or washer are missing or not doing their job, you may have to assume the spring will fly off as soon as the hub is removed. By all means, secure that spring before trying to remove the hub. Once the spring is compressed enough to be sure it is not pressing on the hub and secured, some penetrating oil in the set screw hole should help you get the hub removed from the shaft.

One other suggestion about penetrating oil. With the spring compressed and secured, remove set screw and apply penetrating oil in hole. Then re-insert set screw to use it to force penetrating oil between hub and shaft.

Edited to correct "spring clip" to "retaining ring"

[mbrand2]

Yes, I've compared it to ones on my bandsaw and scrollsaw and it's the same. I assume a previous owner put it on. I'd like to replace it with a proper fitting, so I've been scanning photos to find one. There's no spring clip behind it to hold the spring on as far as I can tell. I'll try some penetrating oil on it and compress the spring again to try getting it loose.
MB