Rebuild/restore project – Model 10ER Serial Number R-46182

[chapmanruss]

Care must be taken when removing old bearings and especially installing new bearings. Hopefully using the bicycle crank remover didn't damage the splines inside the Drive Sleeve. The Spindle and Drive Sleeve can be damaged using too much force and/or improper technique. There is a thread on removing and installing bearings I believe done by Skip Campbell that includes a video. Sorry I don't have a link for you. I use a 12 ton press for this work but as shown in the thread can be done with common items.

The Shaper Fence can be used for more than Shaping or Routing. It can make a nice guide for use with a Drum Sander. It was also used with the 2-1/2" Jointer Cutter Head. Having the Speed Changer gives you a much higher speed available to do decent Shaping, Routing or Jointer cuts.

[Opolopo]

Well, I have managed to get things back together.
(I work at a glacial pace, I don’t have a lot of extra time in the basement…)

Russ: I wish I had listened more carefully to your advice on the bearings. I totally crunched one of the quill bearings trying to get it on. I thought I was just pushing on the inner race with the bearing puller/installer, but I guess not. I found a replacement, and now it seems to be rotating very smoothly.

However, I should probably have my driver’s license for the 10ER revoked.

I managed to strip the end stud of the screw assembly (113-310) of my Variable Speed Changer.

I had done a trial assembly, and managed to make the spindle turn, but after I lined up the pulleys carefully, the belt tension was too low. Then I realized that the VSC should probably have the screw assembly on the left of its base bracket. So I loosened the lugs with my trusty 7/16” socket, and reassembled everything on the left side. I thought all was well, but as I moved the crank in and out to check resistance (with no belts attached, and the floating sheaves removed), off pinged the end nut (P1403), never to be seen again. I looked for a few minutes, and then thought “A-ha! I have a nylock ¼-20 nut. It’s a 7/16” across the flats, so it must be the same!” So I found the nut, nice and shiny new, and promptly tightened it on with my trusty ratchet (see above). After a few rotations, I thought, “Hmmm, it seems like it needs a bit more torque than I would have expected…” and then I stopped short, knowing what I would find when I removed the nut. Nice, new, ¼-20 threads formed over the previous. Sigh…

Stripped_VSC_bolt.jpg (209.6 KiB) Viewed 1068 times

So, I expect that the lugs and nuts on the VSC are ¼-28, right? I haven’t gone and checked, as I am too demoralized.

So, what do I do now?

Option #1: Use a ¼-20 die and keep re-forming the threads, as I have already started, and then continue with the ¼-20 nylock nut I have? This isn’t exactly a high-stress point, it just needs to keep the spring tension on the end of the Screw Assembly.

Option #2: Re-form the correct threads with a ¼-28 die? I don’t have a ¼-28 die at the moment, and I still haven’t found the lost nut. So until I get a die or a nut, I can’t go about re-forming the correct threads.

Option #3: I was reading up on thread-forming epoxy, and that might be worth a try? Along with Option #1 or #2.

Option #4: Re-form threads with a smaller die, like 12-28? Then at least I would have the same TPI.

Option #5: Another solution from the SS community collective mountain of experience...

On top of all this, I just noticed that whole end stud is slightly bent. So I should probably try and straighten that out as I re-form the threads.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I just want to make sawdust!

Opolopo

[chapmanruss]

If it was mine I would go with option 1. Since you now have 1/4"-20 threads on the end of the Adjusting Screw Assembly continue them just long enough for the nut to go on, in other words the thickness of the nut. Remember the nut only needs to go on as far as the nut lock side and shaft are flush. You do not want to compress the springs. I think option 2 re-cutting the 1/4"-28 threads would leave you with no useable or very weak threads.

The best word of caution for anyone using the Speed Changer for the Model 10's is NEVER continue turning the Adjusting Screw Handle either up or down in speed once either spring starts to compress. At that point you are no longer changing speeds but are on your way to breaking the Speed Changer.

I should have said this before. When removing or installing bearings with a puller or a press (like I use) put a block of wood between the puller or press shaft and the part you are removing/installing the bearing from/to. The wood is more forgiving than having metal to metal and can save damaging the part end if too much force is being applied. If the wood begins to crush figure out why before continuing. Some crushing of the wood may occur even if things are okay. Soft woods will crush with less force than hard woods.

[JPG]

I would start from the inside where the correct threads are and using a triangular file, file at the same pitch so as to remove any material displaced into the root of the 1/4-28 threads. Then see how a correct pitch nut fits and if there is sufficient threads to be usable. If not then option 3(maybe).

[Opolopo]

Russ & JPG: Thank you for your replies. Your experience is invaluable.

I think I will follow Russ’s advice and continue with the1/4-20 nylock nut, threaded on just until the nylon side is flush with the end of the shaft. The newly formed (ARGH!!!) threads held it quite firmly the first time, so I imagine that it will hold against the spring tension.

Maybe I will paint it red to remind myself never to loosen it!

Would you recommend using a 1/4-20 die and essentially cutting new threads, or just use the nut itself? I imagine using the nut would allow me to not have to remove it, which could weaken the new threads slightly.

I had started looking into split die thread repair tools, like the Murray Tools Split Die Thread Repair System or the JME Innovations
Those dies let you start re-forming threads from behind the damaged portion, preventing cross-threading.

But ~$30 seems to be a lot of money for a one-time use. I don't think I have anything else with a 1/4-28 thread. (Which is of course how I got this problem in the first place...)

Again, thanks for your help. I will hopefully have a less-exciting post soon!

Opolopo

[BuckeyeDennis]

Opolopo, have you considered a thread-restoring file? I find them invaluable for cleaning up boogered threads. Here's one that looks like a good value, from an American brand:

https://amazon.com/Nicholson-Thread-Res ... B000LGE93C

If you can clean up the end threads and still have a few undamaged threads for a 1/4"-28 nut to thread into, you should be in good shape, functionally. Start filing where the good threads can guide the file, and then just work your way out to the end of the shaft.

[chapmanruss]

Maybe option 2 with the split die repair system you found could work out well. If I was going to restore the threads to their original 1/4" - 28 size I would spend the extra money over the cost of the thread restoring file. Trying to file them back to original by hand would be more difficult than the split die. I would not try cutting the threads back to the original 28 TPI with a standard die from the end as you could easily change the threads matching up at the undamaged portion. I'll have to keep those split dies in mind if I ever have a similar problem. As for the 1/4" -28 lock nut you should be able to find a replacement at a hardware store. I have purchased them for Speed Changers in the past. If removed too many times the nylon wears and does not lock as well.