Rediscovering my bandsaw -- and questions

[paulrussell]

It was a lot of work, but I was finally able to get my bandsaw wheels coplanar.
Actually not, since I am aware the Shopsmith bandsaw is a different beast than the rest. But I'll bet I got your attention.

I have a 1981 vintage steel table bandsaw and have made the following changes:
- Replaced SquealMaster (tm) rollers with bearings; dual for tracking and single for backup bearings
- Added window and hole for tension adjusting.
- Added dust collection port.
- Added nylon bolt to reduce guide bar assembly lateral movement
- Ceramic guide blocks for 1/4 and larger blades, Cool Blocks for 1/4 and narrower.
- Shimmed table perpendicular to blade (not really a mod since it is in the manual)
- 3D printed table inserts for smaller blades

I am happy with the steel table, and if I decide I want a dedicated fence, will probably buy or make a magnetic one.

So on to the questions:
Beyond what I've already done, curious about the relative merits of the following:
-- Changing backup bearings to dual
-- Carter Guide bearings for 1/4 and wider blades
-- Carter Stabilizer bearing for 1/4 and narrower blades, purportedly for significantly tighter curves

Specifically, I'm curious if any of the above three make meaningful differences in resawing and/or curved cuts, and what those differences might be. Like so many things, it seems that the opinions have ran the gamut.

[garys]

I went through mine a couple of years ago. I added cool blocks and bearings to replace the bushings. Neither of those things likely made it work better. What did help was carefully aligning the new bearings and guides after installing. I built a dedicated fence from wood. The saw does a really nice job now so I will just leave it alone and use it.
I still want to add a "window" for blade adjustment. I've been thinking this over and plan to make it a "door" instead of a window. If I make a spring loaded door, I won't have to be looking through a sawdust covered window. Instead, I will just pull open the door and hold it while I adjust tension, and relase it to let it close again. That way it doesn't matter how much sawdust is on the window/door because I don't have to look through it.

[chapmanruss]

Remember, with the Safety Grip removed your Mark series Miter can be used as a fence for the Bandsaw. Add a Miter Gauge Extension and you can have a longer fence. A custom height Miter Gauge Extension can give you a taller fence too.