Main Table Alignment in Drill Press Mode

[dusty]

Russ

In another thread you said "My Mark 7 is aligned in drill press mode for the Main Table. It is the first alignment I do on all my Shopsmith restorations too".

Is there a specific reason why you do the Main Table Alignment in the drill press mode first?

I understand doing the front to back level check in the drill press mode (drill bit being the reference surface) but if the table is not level will that not be evident in the saw mode as well.

I expect you to tell me that "level" is not the issue but rather that perpendicular to the drill bit is.

[JPG]

My name is not Russ, but I think I understand. You mentioned front to back 'level' which I assume is referring to the quill axis perpendicular to the table which includes left/right as well. The front to back has no effect on subsequent saw table adjustments so it can be done independently from them. The left right is only affected by the stops for the table used in vertical mode only. Done in this order, table to blade adjustments can be done as the last thing and removes the possibility interaction.

[DLB]

IIUC the alignment we're talking about is shimming the main table to the trunnions to ensure that it is square to the plane of rotation in one axis ('level' front to back). I also do that first. I do it first because I'm confident that the correction will not be altered by later adjusting the miter slots parallel to the plane of rotation. I've seen a sawdust session in which they asserted that you could shim the table without altering the miter slot alignment, but I have never tried it.

I do this with the SS in horizontal configuration rather than vertical, but with the table rotated 90 degrees. Personal preference, but I figure if it varies going to DP mode I'd prefer that it be most correct in horizontal because that it how I use the machine 99% of the time.

- David

[edma194]

Are you guys talking about setting the 90 degree stop on the main table so it will be perpendicular to the spindle?

[dusty]

Are you guys talking about setting the 90 degree stop on the main table so it will be perpendicular to the spindle?

I can't answer for the others but my original question had nothing to do with the stops. My question was intended to address only alignment of the Main Table (in all directions) to the axis of rotation (of something like a drill bit) when chucked in the drill press mode.

I had previously understood Russ to say that he does this alignment verification FIRST and my question was WHY?

Now, logic tells you that if you are going to be removing main table trunnion bolts to shive the table to the trunnions it should be done before you set out to square the table to the saw blade (unless you want to do thatalignment still again).

[chapmanruss]

Dusty,

Yes, just like JPG and David have already pointed out, there is a reason I do the beginning alignments in drill press mode first. I have owned 6 Mark 5/V's ranging from 1956 to 2006 that I have restored, refurbished and/or upgraded plus I have also restored 21 Model 10's so far. It is the order I do alignments on all of them. If the Main Table requires shimming to get the table to 90° front to back to the Quill's Spindle I like to do that first. If I was to align the table to the blade first than found it needs shimming to get it to 90° then it would require redoing the table to saw blade alignment. I haven't seen the sawdust session in which they shim the table without altering the miter slot alignment so I haven't tried it or know if it would work for me. On Model 10's with the second version of the trunnion there may be an additional need for shimming for the left to right tilting but I won't go into detail about that here. My Mark V 520 Manual has the first alignment item to check as SET THE WORKTABLE'S 90°LEFT STOP. Since the manual doesn't cover checking the drill bit being 90° to the table front to back at that point I assume Shopsmith believes it is already correct but I like to check it anyway. Besides it is already set up and easy to check at the same time. Older manuals do not address it either. I haven't checked all the Mark 5/V manuals I have on this subject. Model 10's often require shimming to get the table 90° to the quill spindle front to back.

As has been pointed out Level may not be the same as 90° between objects but sometimes we tend to use words a little out of context.

Dusty,

I hope this explains it better than the short statement in the other post and I see you have posted while I was composing this.

[dusty]

Yes, Russ, it does. Thank you for taking the time.

With regard to "plumb" and "level", in my opinion, these terms need to be used together and seldom apply in my shop. In the way of explanation: I plumb and level door and window casings.

In the shop I make measurements of one surface or edge to another. A 90 degree cut is typically with reference to the fence and in use might not be either plumb or level.

[chapmanruss]

I agree about plumb and level. My shop area is a part of our garage with a concrete floor. It has a slope down towards the garage doors so NOT level. It is a deep garage at 36' so only the door/front half slopes and the back half is level but not perfectly level. It is after all a garage floor and getting perfectly level across any floor is difficult let alone one that is 30' wide.

[dusty]

I agree about plumb and level. My shop area is a part of our garage with a concrete floor. It has a slope down towards the garage doors so NOT level. It is a deep garage at 36' so only the door/front half slopes and the back half is level but not perfectly level. It is after all a garage floor and getting perfectly level across any floor is difficult let alone one that is 30' wide.

I don't know how costly it is but there is a "self leveling concrete" that can be poured onto an existing floor and I am told the resulting floor will be perfectly level and potentially slick. It is not troweled. Just pour it and let it set.

[RFGuy]

For those of us with garage shops, we'll probably have to live with the sloped floor. I don't know for sure, but I am guessing it has to be building code for some locations. Often the water heater is located in/near the garage so if/when it leaks you want the water to drain out of the garage. I have thought about leveling it before, but probably never will because it may make it a challenge for selling the property in the future if it doesn't meet code.