Power Pro Wedge Lock Issue

[bigted]

Thought that I had damaged the wedge locks as I could not tighten or loosen the handle. Fortunately it was locked in the open or loosened position so that I could slide the headstock but I could not put it in the drill press mode. I had purchased the whole wedge lock package figuring that it would be the safest way to go! I took the headstock off and exposed the wedge locks and they looked OK! Upon further examination, I saw that the plastic "loom" that is wrapped around the threaded rod had worked its way into the threaded wedge next to the handle. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue! The replacement "loom" is $18.98! Guess that's a bargain compared to the $9,999.99 listed price! I noticed on the PowerPro diagram that was emailed to me that there were 2 flat washers shown on the threaded rod, which I gather is intended to prevent what happened to mine! They are listed as "Flat" washers . Has anyone had experience with using these and do they appear to work!
Thanks,
Ted

[DLB]

The purpose of the loom is to prevent wire chaffing on the exposed threads of the wedge lock bolt. I wouldn't worry too much about replacing it if the damage is out near the end. But if you want to replace it, it is available elsewhere for automotive and other applications, probably less pricey. Typical use is to wrap loose wires into a single cable, for example trailer wiring. The flat washers do seem to work. I don't recall if they are standard size, and the drawing doesn't say.

I initially made the error of leaving these off my PowerPro too. Now I'm wondering about the instructions. Was yours DIY? The book seems clear, but I mostly followed the video. And fast-forwarded through parts I was sure I knew how to do... Plus I cheated by never taking the wedge locks off to start with. Not a short cut, but it would have been were it not for these washers.

- David

[bigted]

My DYI upgrade was done eight years ago and I don't recall that the schematic showed washers on the threaded rod! I can't guarantee that because I moved 4 yrs. ago and the box with my SS Manuels did not make the trip! I just noticed them after SS sent me an PowerPro schematic earlier this week! Should have thought of the auto applications as I'm sure I could've found something similar that would work! The "Loom" is pretty well chewed up and probably should be replaced! Hopefully the parts are in the mail and I'll be back in business next week!
Thanks for your Help!
Ted

[edma194]

Yes, there are a pair of washers with the purpose of keeping that plastic material from getting jammed in the threads. Almost missed those myself doing the upgrade. You need to take care that the wedges are closing on the way tubes with equal pressure from each side.

[JPG]

Yes, there are a pair of washers with the purpose of keeping that plastic material from getting jammed in the threads. Almost missed those myself doing the upgrade. You need to take care that the wedges are closing on the way tubes with equal pressure from each side.

How can they be anything else? More to the point, the wedges need to be equidistant from the center of the threaded rod.

[DLB]

If I had it to do over again I don't I'd use the loom and washers any more than I would use a rat tail file for enlarging an old (1/4"?) motor mount hole into a new 3/4" power cord hole. Removal of the Wedge Lock assembly, which on some older headstocks involves cutting the threaded rod in half and ordering a new one, is only necessary for installing the washers. I'm thinking a piece of flexible tubing (PEX maybe) split on one side could be spread to go over the threaded rod instead, saving the steps of removing and reinstalling the assembly in pieces and ending up with a floating protector over the threads that is too thick to foul the locks. Throw in a depth stop for the countersink and I think you've cut the install time in half or better.

- David

[JPG]

Rubber vacuum hose?

[edma194]

How can they be anything else? More to the point, the wedges need to be equidistant from the center of the threaded rod.

That's a better way to say it.

The threads could be covered with something like a flexi-straw, just a little springier to push out against the sides.