retcaptb wrote:...........Here I found it at White Cap Construction Supply. They are all over the states. They are also on the web.
White Cap is (or was, as HD may have sold it off) a division (right description?) of The Home Depot, according to some White Cap employees that I talked to about a year ago.
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Great thread!
I was just wondering what i should use for jig material and the good ole search function took me to this.
Thanks for the link on baltic birch as well, it is a great read.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train. Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.
I will need to be making some jigs for my acoustic guitar project. Some luthiers make the molds out of plywood and others make them out of MDF. Can anyone thing of a reason why not to use MDF?
midnightshadow
Chuck
midnightshadow wrote:I will need to be making some jigs for my acoustic guitar project. Some luthiers make the molds out of plywood and others make them out of MDF. Can anyone thing of a reason why not to use MDF?
midnightshadow
Chuck
You asked for a reason. I am knot saying that this wood be a big problem, but the edges of the MDF may deteriorate faster then plywood will.
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
I would tend to agree with a1gutterman. MDF, while useful for many things would not be my first choice for sleds and jigs. I personally feel that it doesn't hold screws as well as baltic birch.
-Jason
1996 Mark V Model 510, & Bandsaw, Bosch 1617 fixed/plunge router & RA1171 Router Table, Ryobi 10" Compound Miter Saw & Ryobi 6" disk/12" belt sander combo.
Since I have no idea as to what these jigs look like or what is being ask of them this is a hard question.
A great many things are made from MDF... router tables, fences, jigs of all sorts. You can treat edges with hardwood, and if the surface is flat you can put laminate on it... It very stable and starts out very cheap. You can always prototype jigs with it and if looks like is wearing out then go to another material or attempt to protect it... you can even paint it.
Since as far as I know we have a limited number of Luther's (sp?) here you might want to try and find a forum with like minded builders for more information from them on how they do things... I think it is an art form as much as it is a woodworking skill set. If you do so still stay with us too.... for shopsmith and general knowledge, and to share some of the things you learn. We all win that way!
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Don't get the program any more but, I used to watch a luthier on tv. His jigs looked like BB or Appleply.
I've had success with BB for bearing bearing;) surfaces and MDF for platforms.
I predrill for screws, soak the hole with CA glue, let it set up and then add a little to the screw before inserting it. Haven't any pull out.
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
pkni wrote:Don't get the program any more but, I used to watch a luthier on tv. His jigs looked like BB or Appleply.
I've had success with BB for bearing bearing]let it set up[/B] and then add a little to the screw before inserting it. Haven't any pull out.
After soaking the holes with CA, do you have to let it setup before sinking screws or can that be done immediately?
Never mind. I reread what you wrote. You already answered my question.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
