Hey All,
I was searching through the threads and really didn't find the answer to my question..
I am looking for a NEW saw blade for my Shopsmith.
Seeing it has a 1 1/4" Arbor.
Should I buy a Shopsmith Blade or a Forrest Blade?
Or should I, just get the 5/8" Arbor from Shopsmith and buy a blade at my local Home store?
Looks like the 5/8" Arbors at Shopsmith website say they are on backorder.
"Status: Item may be on BACK-ORDER, or is made upon ordering." (so does this mean a long wait?)
Also, does one really need a dampener-stiffener for the thinner blades?
Thanks!
Saw Blade question
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Ed in Tampa
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The choice is yours. I really like SS blades some others don't. Forrest blades from what I'm told are fantastic but frankly since SS do what I want I don't see any reason to spend more.greasetattoo wrote:Hey All,
I was searching through the threads and really didn't find the answer to my question..
I am looking for a NEW saw blade for my Shopsmith.
Seeing it has a 1 1/4" Arbor.
Should I buy a Shopsmith Blade or a Forrest Blade?
Or should I, just get the 5/8" Arbor from Shopsmith and buy a blade at my local Home store?
Looks like the 5/8" Arbors at Shopsmith website say they are on backorder.
"Status: Item may be on BACK-ORDER, or is made upon ordering." (so does this mean a long wait?)
Also, does one really need a dampener-stiffener for the thinner blades?
Thanks!
As for the size. I own both 1 1/4 blades and 5/8. Frankly I.m not that deep into precision to say I see a difference. I trust SS and they say the 1 1/4 produces a better cut and I accept that.
What I found to make the biggest difference in my cuts were. Properly aligned SS. Slow steady feed rate and zero clearance insert. To me my cuts are perfect, perhaps someone else could fault them and justify a forest blade but I can't
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
Have you read through this discussion?
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1374
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1374
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Sharpening Saw Blades
I would appreciate suggestions on how best to get SS saw blades sharpened.
If an outside service is used, is this a local service, or something national in scope?
If sharpening yourself, then suggested guide to learn how.
Thanks.
WD Elliott
Ravenna TX
If an outside service is used, is this a local service, or something national in scope?
If sharpening yourself, then suggested guide to learn how.
Thanks.
WD Elliott
Ravenna TX
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
As previously stated, I use both size arbors and blades. I see no difference in quality of cut provided I have a properly sharpened and balanced blade.
To insure that be the case, I send my blades to Forrest to be sharpened and I authorize (for a fee) that they perform a cut test each time. If your blade does not perform properly, you are informed.
If you need an arbor, check on ebay. They are sold there frequently. Understand that arbors for use on a 500 are different than those for a 510 or 520. Be selective in what you purchase.
To insure that be the case, I send my blades to Forrest to be sharpened and I authorize (for a fee) that they perform a cut test each time. If your blade does not perform properly, you are informed.
If you need an arbor, check on ebay. They are sold there frequently. Understand that arbors for use on a 500 are different than those for a 510 or 520. Be selective in what you purchase.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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pinkiewerewolf
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 526
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:13 pm
- Location: Ca. Eureka area.
I have a Shopsmith blade and a comparable Freud 5/8" arbor blade, they both cut smoothly and I think they are both made by Freud. LOL
Some people run stiffeners with the 5/8" arbors since the 1/14" arbor automatically give the blade more rigidity, I haven't been running a stiffener and I'm having good results with the 5/8" arbor. You can do some experimentation and see which works for you.
Oh, and both are thin kerf.
I also like the old planner blade that came with my old Mark V. It makes a really nice smooth cut but I save it for grooves and such that require a flat bottom. These can be found on EBay for a pretty good price and sometimes in an unopened package. I think well worth picking up even though it isn't a thin kerf blade, nor carbide tipped.
I live in The Redwood Empire, so finding a knowledgeable guy to sharpen the blades wasn't a problem. Check with the local lumber yards and tool merchants, they can help you out.
Some people run stiffeners with the 5/8" arbors since the 1/14" arbor automatically give the blade more rigidity, I haven't been running a stiffener and I'm having good results with the 5/8" arbor. You can do some experimentation and see which works for you.
Oh, and both are thin kerf.
I also like the old planner blade that came with my old Mark V. It makes a really nice smooth cut but I save it for grooves and such that require a flat bottom. These can be found on EBay for a pretty good price and sometimes in an unopened package. I think well worth picking up even though it isn't a thin kerf blade, nor carbide tipped.
I live in The Redwood Empire, so finding a knowledgeable guy to sharpen the blades wasn't a problem. Check with the local lumber yards and tool merchants, they can help you out.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.
Adressing the "stiffner" question:
The Shopsmith 1 1/4" and the 5/8" arbors are sufficient in diameter to grip the blade so that a stiffner is not necessary. I use thin kerf blades exclusively without any problems.
I find the Shopsmith carbide blades, rip, crosscut, and combination, to be of very high quality, and will certainly suffice for over 90% of your cuts. That being said, it's a good idea to have the 5/8" arbor for speciality blades, such as laminate, particle board, and plywood. I purchased an 80T ATB Freud blade with a 2 degree hook for these special purposes.
The Shopsmith 1 1/4" and the 5/8" arbors are sufficient in diameter to grip the blade so that a stiffner is not necessary. I use thin kerf blades exclusively without any problems.
I find the Shopsmith carbide blades, rip, crosscut, and combination, to be of very high quality, and will certainly suffice for over 90% of your cuts. That being said, it's a good idea to have the 5/8" arbor for speciality blades, such as laminate, particle board, and plywood. I purchased an 80T ATB Freud blade with a 2 degree hook for these special purposes.