Switch
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- dusty
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[quote="drmcroberts"]Well, that's not my definition of JIT inventory. They should have received the replacement switch the same day I placed my order ]
Yes, it is convenient but I wouldn't go so far as saying it was ingenious. In days long gone by the switch was installed so as to switch both the hot and the neutral. At some time after I bought my Mark V that was changed. I bought a switch about a year ago, maybe a bit longer, to put in my spares box. When that switch arrived it was packaged with instructions and a set of wires with connectors that would allow me to switch just the hot and "hot wire" the neutral.
If you have a Power Station, it uses the same switch as does the Crafter's Station.
Yes, it is convenient but I wouldn't go so far as saying it was ingenious. In days long gone by the switch was installed so as to switch both the hot and the neutral. At some time after I bought my Mark V that was changed. I bought a switch about a year ago, maybe a bit longer, to put in my spares box. When that switch arrived it was packaged with instructions and a set of wires with connectors that would allow me to switch just the hot and "hot wire" the neutral.
If you have a Power Station, it uses the same switch as does the Crafter's Station.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- JPG
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Speaking of which, since the CS has TWO power switches, does it need the extra pole? I assume only one of the switches = Mk5 switch. What is the other?dusty wrote: If you have a Power Station, it uses the same switch as does the Crafter's Station.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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The Crafter's Station does use two switches. One is identical to the switch used in the Mark V while the other is a spst. The switching in the Crafter's Station is not exactly straight forward. Realize that the Crafter's Station motor runs in either direction. This bidirectional capability employs a 4 pole single throw relay as well.jpg40504 wrote:Speaking of which, since the CS has TWO power switches, does it need the extra pole? I assume only one of the switches = Mk5 switch. What is the other?
When using the CS as a saw, the infeed side of the table is the backside.
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Dusty
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Knew about bi-directionality and why. Wondered if they used a relay to reverse motor direction. Makes switch needs simpler. I am guessing the spdt switch is 'hot' and the dpst switch is feed thru the spdt. Which one is which?dusty wrote:The Crafter's Station does use two switches. One is identical to the switch used in the Mark V while the other is a spst. The switching in the Crafter's Station is not exactly straight forward. Realize that the Crafter's Station motor runs in either direction. This bidirectional capability employs a 4 pole single throw relay as well.
When using the CS as a saw, the infeed side of the table is the backside.
SPDT on PS side and DPST on 'saw' side??? The EE in me is curious.

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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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Here is the wiring diagram from the manual.jpg40504 wrote:Knew about bi-directionality and why. Wondered if they used a relay to reverse motor direction. Makes switch needs simpler. I am guessing the spdt switch is 'hot' and the dpst switch is feed thru the spdt. Which one is which?
SPDT on PS side and DPST on 'saw' side??? The EE in me is curious.
[ATTACH]3108[/ATTACH]
I redrew this into a format that I was more familiar with and did a relay energized and relay deenergized version. It was easier for me to work with.
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- Crafter's Station Wiring Diagram.gif (168.57 KiB) Viewed 13133 times
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- JPG
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motor wiring for crafters station
I can see why!dusty wrote:Here is the wiring diagram from the manual.
I redrew this into a format that I was more familiar with and did a relay energized and relay deenergized version. It was easier for me to work with.
Both switches turn on the motor (black wire).
The DPST switch ALSO switches the neutral(white) to the relay coil. The other side of the relay coil is hot all the time!
The DPDT relay reverses the red and blue connections to the black and orange wire respectively.
Thank You!:)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Switch
Bill, I noticed the Switch you recommend has just two posts on the back while there's four posts on the back of the original SS switches. How do you wire up the replacement switch that has only two posts?billmayo wrote:I have been buying my 20 Amp rated heavy duty motor toggle switches from http://www.delcity.net
7300001 - DPST On-Off Toggle Switch - .250 flat terminals (1 MIN)
Details Price: 4.51 Qty in package: 1
I have replace many shorted/open toggle switches on the 500s in the past 6 1/2 years. Since I have spent most of my life as a trouble shooter/problem solver, I will offer my ideas why the toggle ("B" headstock) and rocker ("C" headstock) switches fail. The original Greenies with the 3/4 HP motor had a 15 Amp rated switch. When the switch was made to the 1 1/8 HP motors, a regular 15 Amp rated toggle switch was used. Shopsmith finally switched to a better 20 Amp rated switch in the late 80s. When they went to the "C" headstock, they went with another 15 Amp rated rocker switch. I believe they are using a 20 Amp rated rocker switch now. I have been using a HF motor rated rocker switch for the "C" headstocks.
Big Box stores and hardware stores sell a 15 Amp and sometimes a 20 Amp toggle switch rated for light/regular use, not for motors. The contact points on a motor rated switch are larger and heavier than the regular switches. When the Shopsmith 1 1/8 HP motor starts, both the motor and start windings are energized drawing 18-24 Amps just for a very short time until the start windings are deenergized. I believe this heavy current draw will cause the regular contact points to burn over time or weld together. Since switching to the above motor rated switch a few years ago, I have not had any failures with the above switch.
- dusty
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tnerb wrote:Bill, I noticed the Switch you recommend has just two posts on the back while there's four posts on the back of the original SS switches. How do you wire up the replacement switch that has only two posts?
I hope this answers your question.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS103/SS103_Replacing_Switch.htm
The specific answer is located in view #3 on the blackboard.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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Sure does. thanks Dusty.dusty wrote:I hope this answers your question.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS103/SS103_Replacing_Switch.htm
The specific answer is located in view #3 on the blackboard.
Switch
I just received another batch of these switches (DPST) this week and they have 4 terminals. You may have misread the part number. Look under "drawing" for a picture of terminals and switch measurements. I use the latest 2 terminal hookup and replace the existing wire terminals with insulated female terminals at the switch and an insulated male and female terminal for the white wire. I also check to make sure there is a ground wire between the motor and wall outlet that is connected.tnerb wrote:Bill, I noticed the Switch you recommend has just two posts on the back while there's four posts on the back of the original SS switches. How do you wire up the replacement switch that has only two posts?
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)