All of us have probably done something using our Shopsmith's at one time or another that would be embarrassing to share. I myself have missed locking the Quill completely before making a cut allowing the quill to drift out during the cut. Big oops,
The set screw that comes with arbors usually extend to the outer edge of the sleeve. It makes them easier to see. They now have the flat end as opposed to the conical end which "bites" into the shaft leaving the little circles. The flat ones are more desirable than conical ones which cause marks on the tapered flat of the spindle end. If accidently left loose the conical ones can scar around the entire diameter of the spindle. If anyone has the more common conical end set screws on arbors, I would recommend changing them to flat end ones.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Use our set screws. They are a different hardness. You want to use softer on our machine.
I want to use setscrews that work on my machine. Only an opinion here, but OEM setscrews are somewhat notorious for coming loose under normal operating conditions with the PowerPro. IMO an improvement is warranted and necessary. Evidently, the OEM doesn't agree. Even if they were not $4.95 each plus a fairly steep minimum shipping charge, I have no use for OEM setscrews unless/until.
chapmanruss wrote: Thu Dec 16, 2021 1:16 pm
... They now have the flat end as opposed to the conical end which "bites" into the shaft leaving the little circles. The flat ones are more desirable than conical ones which cause marks on the tapered flat of the spindle end. If accidently left loose the conical ones can scar around the entire diameter of the spindle. If anyone has the more common conical end set screws on arbors, I would recommend changing them to flat end ones.
I don't buy a lot of new arbors, so only have a couple with this feature. I thought the change to flat setscrews was for arbors where the setscrew hole was angled to be perpendicular to the tapered flat. Thus, the flat part of the setscrew engaging the flat part of the spindle. Personally, I won't be changing setscrew end types for existing arbors that don't have the angled hole, as I see no advantage. I feel it will still mark the spindle if it is not perpendicular.
I do not recall arbor setscrews EVER being conical either plain or serrated.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JMO If a belt is slipping there might be a smell of burnt rubber or smell as if something is getting hot ? if the nylon drive gear on the quill was stripped you "might" hear some grinding ? if a pulley was loose on the motor the blade may take a second to reach rpm , the blade may keep spinning after the motor has stopped ????? what dia blades are you using and what about the electrical power IE ext cord and its length and wire size ? any lights dimming or other power issues ?
Hobbyman2 Favorite Quote: "If a man does his best, what else is there?"
- General George S. Patton (1885-1945)
I own Shopsmith Arbors and other spindle mount accessories going back to the first Shopsmith Model 10E's through more current ones. The only ends they have had on set screws that I have seen is early conical followed by flat ends. The most recent item purchased this year has a flat end set screw. I haven't had any problems with set screws coming loose on any of my Shopsmith's during operation from my 1947 Model 10E to my Mark 7. In the link above that Hobbyman2 posted is another link which has a PDF with a nice listing of set screw information and is below.
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The other link Hobbyman2 provided in the other post to the ebay sale is someone's sale of replacement stainless steel set screws for Shopsmith Model 10's. It would take buying three sets of these set screws to get enough to replace most of the set screws used on a Model 10E or 10ER with extras of some of the 3 sizes and not any of other sizes used. Again, these are for Model 10's which used set screws to attach a lot of the parts and not the sizes used for Mark series tools.
Last edited by chapmanruss on Sat Dec 18, 2021 12:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
The speed control may seem to be working under no load conditions when one of the split sheaves pairs is fully or partially jammed. The V-belt will loosely contact the sheaves and easily slip under load but it does sound like the speed is changing as you turn the speed dial through whatever range it has. This happened when I first acquired a Greenie way back when the spring was frozen on the motor shaft.
We got a little focused on set screws here, but have you had any luck figuring out what is actually happening with your Shopsmith?
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.