My son is thinking about adding a shopsmith jointer to his machine and I have never had one or worked on one.... so what sorts of things might be "big" issues he should check for? The obvious list of most is the Jointer Fence Tilt Quadrant from the most ordered parts but what else might be an issue. And how about years, ie age, it would be nice to have the latest and greatest especially having to do with safety issues.......
Anything that would be handy to have along to check things with ie a straight edge, square, other tools?
Ed
Used jointer, what to look for?
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Used jointer, what to look for?
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
- BuckeyeDennis
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Re: Used jointer, what to look for?
I'd want the feather-board guard and the 2-1/2" dust port. They can be retrofitted, but that should be considered in the price. Ditto for worn knives, as a replacement set costs $50.
The face of the fence on my SS jointer is not terribly flat. It has a slight bow and also a slight twist. The bow can be detected with a straight edge, and the twist with a square (after ensuring that the infeed and outfeed tables are flat and parallel). To get a true 90 degree edge consistently, I have to mount a flat/shimmed auxiliary fence on it. I really should replace it.
The face of the fence on my SS jointer is not terribly flat. It has a slight bow and also a slight twist. The bow can be detected with a straight edge, and the twist with a square (after ensuring that the infeed and outfeed tables are flat and parallel). To get a true 90 degree edge consistently, I have to mount a flat/shimmed auxiliary fence on it. I really should replace it.
Re: Used jointer, what to look for?
A sure sign of a bent trunnion is if the fence lifts up above the table as you lock it. Sometimes fixable, but I'd adjust price accordingly.
I'd try to get one that already has dust/chip collection. And check it for damage, it is plastic and the Jointer is heavy.
Hard to even describe: Some of the fence bars have sharper corners than others. They aren't radiused, but maybe relieved(?) or just made by someone else. The sharper that corner is the better. It fits the trunnion better, increases the miniscule area of engagement between the two. I have a classic bad trunnion that works fine on the better of these. I'd gladly pay for a new one of these if I was sure what I'd be getting.
The larger diameter cutter head does seem to work a little better.
- David
I'd try to get one that already has dust/chip collection. And check it for damage, it is plastic and the Jointer is heavy.
Hard to even describe: Some of the fence bars have sharper corners than others. They aren't radiused, but maybe relieved(?) or just made by someone else. The sharper that corner is the better. It fits the trunnion better, increases the miniscule area of engagement between the two. I have a classic bad trunnion that works fine on the better of these. I'd gladly pay for a new one of these if I was sure what I'd be getting.
The larger diameter cutter head does seem to work a little better.
- David
Re: Used jointer, what to look for?
He located one not to far off but has not heard back from seller. $225 but the picture is stock shot so no real idea of condition. I said I would go along to look at it if he wants. So wait and see on that one.
Thanks for the information. I will print it out for him and if anyone else wants to add anything feel free. I don't think he is in a rush, but if it looks good and still available I think he will get it even at that price point.
Ed
Thanks for the information. I will print it out for him and if anyone else wants to add anything feel free. I don't think he is in a rush, but if it looks good and still available I think he will get it even at that price point.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
- Ed in Tampa
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Re: Used jointer, what to look for?
I would worry about the bearings, age, use and lack of use all effect the bearings.
I rarely use my jointer anymore but I know the bearings are getting louder and louder just sitting. When I put it on my SS and first start it the noise is not pretty but it quiets down quickly. I am expecting to have to do a bearing replacement.
I rarely use my jointer anymore but I know the bearings are getting louder and louder just sitting. When I put it on my SS and first start it the noise is not pretty but it quiets down quickly. I am expecting to have to do a bearing replacement.
- chapmanruss
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Re: Used jointer, what to look for?
Ed,
I won't bother repeating what has already been said. Any Shopsmith/Magna Jointer Model 620 or newer can be made to be the same as the current Jointer with one exception. When the Model number changed from 505681 to 505681-B during January 1984 starting at Serial Number 70000, a depth adjustment stop called the Infeed Stop was added just above the label plate. Because this includes a cast on part on the Base/Outfeed Table besides the flip down stop on the Infeed Table in cannot simply be added to older Jointers like all other changes made.
Condition, features such as upgrades and price compared to the current price for a new one at $647.00 today should be your guiding factors. If I were looking for a used Jointer my consideration would be getting a complete usable Jointer that can have all the current features, with or without the depth adjustment stop, for around half the current price. That would be the price paid plus purchasing replacement parts and upgrades. Of course, the more time you have to shop around may allow you to find a better deal as opposed to buying the first one that comes along. Knowing what to look out for will help in negotiating a better price if issues are found. If the seller points out the current price for a new one you can point out any costs needed to upgrade the one being sold to make it like a new one including any improvements not included. This could include a new Cutter Head which improves clearing chips if it has the older Cutter Head. Don't forget the blades will not be new so a cost there. Does it have all the current features and if not more costs. You get the idea.
I won't bother repeating what has already been said. Any Shopsmith/Magna Jointer Model 620 or newer can be made to be the same as the current Jointer with one exception. When the Model number changed from 505681 to 505681-B during January 1984 starting at Serial Number 70000, a depth adjustment stop called the Infeed Stop was added just above the label plate. Because this includes a cast on part on the Base/Outfeed Table besides the flip down stop on the Infeed Table in cannot simply be added to older Jointers like all other changes made.
Condition, features such as upgrades and price compared to the current price for a new one at $647.00 today should be your guiding factors. If I were looking for a used Jointer my consideration would be getting a complete usable Jointer that can have all the current features, with or without the depth adjustment stop, for around half the current price. That would be the price paid plus purchasing replacement parts and upgrades. Of course, the more time you have to shop around may allow you to find a better deal as opposed to buying the first one that comes along. Knowing what to look out for will help in negotiating a better price if issues are found. If the seller points out the current price for a new one you can point out any costs needed to upgrade the one being sold to make it like a new one including any improvements not included. This could include a new Cutter Head which improves clearing chips if it has the older Cutter Head. Don't forget the blades will not be new so a cost there. Does it have all the current features and if not more costs. You get the idea.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.