New here - New Power Pro - New problem.

[daveg]

Hello,
I just bought a used Mark 7. It does not appear to have ever been used, most parts are still wrapped in plastic. Not a scratch on the couplings. It was converted to 220. I put a 110 plug on it.

At first it wouldn't start up, giving me LOW VOLTAGE and RESTART. Sometimes it would make a noise like it was trying to start but jammed up. Mostly just the LOW VOLTAGE.

I opened it up and re-plugged the motor wiring harness. Back to the noise (sort of a hum) and the shaft turned just a little bit. I gave the shaft a twist and it started running. It hovered around the 500 rpm setting. It will run at any rpm set, but when stopped it jams up again most of the time. The shaft turns freely when power is off.

Any ideas? I tried some searching but haven't found anything.

[edma194]

Assuming it's not a motor control logic problem then you'd look at the motor shaft, idler shaft, and main spindle for something keeping them from turning. It may be a good idea to remove the main drive belt from the motor so it can be tested independently of the rest of the drive train. I don't know how much service information came with your machine. The easy way to get the belt off the motor is to tilt up into drill press mode, remove the motor pan and belt covers, and remove all but the top two motor mount screws so the motor can swing on those two remaining screws and the belt removed. You can see that demonstrated in this PowerPro upgrade video:

[bainin]

I'm not familiar with whats involved switching one of these units off of 110AC. Is there possibly a jumper on the
power supply board setting this which needs to now be set back to 110?

b

[edma194]

I'm not familiar with whats involved switching one of these units off of 110AC. Is there possibly a jumper on the
power supply board setting this which needs to now be set back to 110?

b

The power supply for the PowerPro detects the voltage being used. Changing between 110/220AC only requires a different plug and the proper outlet to plug it into.

Auto detection of voltage is becoming more common with electronically controlled power supplies. I have a plasma cutter that can be used with either 110V or 220V. Many portable welders can do this now also.

[daveg]

Alright, edma194 has given me a good place to start. I'll open it up again and see how the motor does with the belt off. While I'm in there I'll check the belt tension. There seem to be a lot of posts about blowing dust out from inside the black plastic cover on one end of the motor so I'll do that too. Maybe an insect got in there and made a nest or something. It could happen.

It's weird that I can turn it all freely with the power off, but when stuck it's takes a pretty firm twist to get it running and then it's fine. As if it is somehow electrically or magnetically frozen.

I did put a saw blade on it and cut some 1/2 plywood at 3450 rpm. It was excellent. Once it's turning it works good.

[jtp]

Was definitely a problem with the switchover to 110v in that replugging the harness changed the machine behavior. So it’s possible you fixed that and there’s a second issue but that tends not to be how these things go, make sure you have the complete SS voltage changeover procedure in hand and see if u missed anything the first time, likely that’s where the issue is but if not Id try a different 110v cord, probably call and ask them what they recommend

Id do all that in that order before I looked at any other potential issue here, just my gut from years of automotive repair industry work

Good luck! - Tyler

[Ed in Tampa]

Since you changed the plug have you checked that you did it right. Do you have the wires on the right terminals?

[DLB]

For LOW VOLTAGE, the manual lists :
a. Electrolytic capacitor failure of PFC components failure (meaning the power supply module is bad)
b. Control Board or Motor are overheated. (Not applicable from your description.)
c. Line voltage has dropped below minimum requirements. (AC power you are plugged into.)

Per the last one, can you measure your actual line voltage? Can you confirm whether you did or did not see the machine running correctly on 220V? Do you have access to 220/230 V power?

ETA: I need a power supply myself. Last week I called SS and they were estimating them to be in stock 4/15. They also do repairs, but they are outsourced. With your symptoms they might ask you to return more of the machine.

- David

[daveg]

Haven't had a chance to open it up yet but I checked my plug. Green wire to green, white wire to silver and black wire to gold. My outlet is testing at 123v.
I didn't get to test the machine on 220, it as an impulse purchase. The garage doesn't have any 220 available, only my dryer in the basement which is a different outlet. I can probably come up with something to work with that.

[DLB]

The LOW VOLTAGE is indicating a bad power supply then. I would still continue as Ed suggested early, first tilt the motor so you can remove the motor belt. Most likely the problem will persist, but that will eliminate everything loading the motor. More steps to follow after that. Did it come with a manual? And mostly out of curiosity, I'd like to know how old it is, there should be a label with date somewhere on the belt cover. If you know the PO maybe they could tell you when it was last used and help you with warranty if it was still under warranty. Sometimes the sellers just don't know much, like an estate sale for example, but they might work with you on an adjustment now that condition is better known if you feel you paid too much.

LOW VOLTAGE does show up 'normally' when the machine is turned off via the mechanical switch or unplugged. It comes on a couple of seconds after power is removed and stays on, I'd say about 10 seconds or so as internal power supply voltages bleed down until the display goes blank.

- David