As I said in my other post I received this sheave today and the box was all torn up. Packaging missing etc...
The Sheave looks to have some metal removed by a drill bit. My guess to balance it???? The one looks to be a little high on the sheave. Is this a problem for the belt? Everything is smooth, no burrs.
Sheave
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cincinnati
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Sheave
The drill holes are used for balancing the sheave. No, they will not give the belt any problems. Yes, the balance holes are normally a little lower on the sheave. Shopsmith's QA dept is really sharp in testing and preventing any machining problems.cincinnati wrote:As I said in my other post I received this sheave today and the box was all torn up. Packaging missing etc...
The Sheave looks to have some metal removed by a drill bit. My guess to balance it???? The one looks to be a little high on the sheave. Is this a problem for the belt? Everything is smooth, no burrs.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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JPG
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Don't neglect to oil the shaft and make sure it is distributed.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Sheave
Excellant idea. I recommend placing the control sheave with the bearing end down and putting more than a few drops of oil into the bushing hole whenever the control sheave is off the headstock. Make sure the inside of the control sheave bushing is clean all the way down to the bearing before doing this oiling. The shielded bearing will accept the oil and leak around the other side of the bearing. I place the button lightly into a vise and spin the control sheave a few different times to make sure the bearing is fully lubricated (oil leaks around the button, this is normal) and rotates freely. I wipe off all the outside oil before installing the control sheave.jpg40504 wrote:Don't neglect to oil the shaft and make sure it is distributed.
The lack of lubrication of this control sheave bearing is the cause of most repairs that I do for headstocks. I recommend using 6-8 drops of a good oil (Zoom Spout Turbine Oil) for the control sheave lubrication each time with the speed control dial set to FAST.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)