The lock down for the motor to the slide rail is really tight and stiff. It is difficult to turn and lock down. Almost afraid I will break the handle.
How can I fix this?
When i took it apart neither wedge stock moves more than 14/4 in or 1/8of a turn?
Stiff Lock down to the rail
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Stiff Lock down to the rail
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Last edited by brutus on Sat Aug 27, 2022 12:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Stiff Lock down to the rail
You'll have to examine the wedge locking mechanism. It is easy to see by tilting up your machine into drill press mode and removing the belt cover and motor pans. Your wedge locks might be worn or broken, the doubled-ended screw that the wedge locks ride on may be rusty or dirty, or possibly the wedge locks have threaded out of position so only one side locking, among other issues. Take some pictures if you can.
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
Re: Stiff Lock down to the rail
there is also the possibility that the wedge locks threads have been damaged and that makes it difficult to turn the handle. The wedges are a softer metal than the threaded rod and are easily damaged. The good news is that they are not
expensive. When you replace them lubricate threaded rod and the threads in the wedges with some powdered graphite. If the rod is heavily rusted clean the threads using using a wire brush on a grinder or portable electric drill.
Bill V
expensive. When you replace them lubricate threaded rod and the threads in the wedges with some powdered graphite. If the rod is heavily rusted clean the threads using using a wire brush on a grinder or portable electric drill.
Bill V
Re: Stiff Lock down to the rail
Here are a couple of videos that might help:
Jacob Anderson gives a good over view on how the lock functions and some of the problems one might encounter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YJ88k2F54Y
Scott Markwood offers some additional insights on the locking mechanism, what can cause it to stick and some solutions
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSpYlXFoJ10
Shopsmith also has some videos on repairing / restoring a Shopsmith with Nick Engler. While the video quality is not great, the information is excellent. From time to time these videos go on sale.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... inttwo.htm
If your locking mechanism is jammed, I would consider dropping the motor pan and looking at the wedges. They are pretty cheap to replace. This video by Jacob Anderson walks you through the process of taking the headstock apart.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drv2C1lYtC4
Jacob Anderson gives a good over view on how the lock functions and some of the problems one might encounter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YJ88k2F54Y
Scott Markwood offers some additional insights on the locking mechanism, what can cause it to stick and some solutions
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSpYlXFoJ10
Shopsmith also has some videos on repairing / restoring a Shopsmith with Nick Engler. While the video quality is not great, the information is excellent. From time to time these videos go on sale.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... inttwo.htm
If your locking mechanism is jammed, I would consider dropping the motor pan and looking at the wedges. They are pretty cheap to replace. This video by Jacob Anderson walks you through the process of taking the headstock apart.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drv2C1lYtC4
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4541
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Stiff Lock down to the rail
Good advice from the other members so far. Now that you have posted a picture, I can see damage to the rear wedge which may or may not cause a problem. It is indicated by the red arrow in the copy of your picture below.
_ .
Since it is damaged, I would suggest replacing a least the rear wedge. Clean up the threads on the rod by removing any rust, "wet" lubrication and gunk buildup. Check for any burrs or damaged threads on the rod after it is cleaned up. Follow with a dry lubricant and checking each wedge individually to see if they turn easily on the threaded lock rod. If that resolves the problem great and if not consider replacing either wedge that doesn't turn easily. Using a dry lubricant will help avoid saw dust buildup on those exposed parts. The same dry lubricant can be used on the worm gear and porkchop teeth of the Speed Control Assembly while you have the Headstock open.
From the online service parts page,
The rear wedge is reference number 50 and part number 504234 named Wedge Lock - Right Hand and is $11.95 plus S & H.
The front wedge is reference number 51 and part number 504235 named Wedge Lock - Left Hand which is $11.95 also.
_ .
Since it is damaged, I would suggest replacing a least the rear wedge. Clean up the threads on the rod by removing any rust, "wet" lubrication and gunk buildup. Check for any burrs or damaged threads on the rod after it is cleaned up. Follow with a dry lubricant and checking each wedge individually to see if they turn easily on the threaded lock rod. If that resolves the problem great and if not consider replacing either wedge that doesn't turn easily. Using a dry lubricant will help avoid saw dust buildup on those exposed parts. The same dry lubricant can be used on the worm gear and porkchop teeth of the Speed Control Assembly while you have the Headstock open.
From the online service parts page,
The rear wedge is reference number 50 and part number 504234 named Wedge Lock - Right Hand and is $11.95 plus S & H.
The front wedge is reference number 51 and part number 504235 named Wedge Lock - Left Hand which is $11.95 also.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Stiff Lock down to the rail
The rear wedge BORE appears damaged as well.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Stiff Lock down to the rail
That is a good catch! I have a partially stripped headstock with a similar looking rear bore. And no idea why, mine did not exhibit any of the locking problems described by the OP.
- David