I have a friend (with a SS Mark V)

[CreekWood]

Thanks for the advice! I may replace the SS caster wheels with something from the Big Box store; I'm surprised that 2 inch wheels roll easily on my unfinished OSB subfloor. They just don't want to turn, and they were stubborn that way on the PO's concrete basement floor too.

[CreekWood]

I thought I'd start the cleanup/maintenance job with the bandsaw/Power Station. Had to stand on the PS to pull the bandsaw off (ouch--Motrin Moment). Spent 15 minutes with a toothbrush and vac to find the oil port on the business end of the Emerson motor. That port drank all 150 drops, but the upright port towards the SPT mounting bracket wouldn't take more than 4 drops. It's possible the yellow plug in the horizontal port was a little loose- hence a lot of oil-soaked sawdust in the motor grill on that end. I'm thinking the SN on this PS is really a date: 01-31-94. ??? The PS looks newer than the bandsaw...well, I'm beginning to realize everything about this ShopSmith looks like a film of something was sprayed on. Now that the nicotine odor is dissipating, my shop smells like laundry soap??? I'm not going to do a taste test.

[CreekWood]

Ok, Bandsaw Questions:
1. How much play is acceptable in the wheels? I measure 1/32 wobble in upper and lower. With the blade off, the bottom wheel is quiet. Upper wheel has vibration when spun by hand.
2. The backing bearing closest to the tension assembly wasn't rolling until I fed it a couple drops of Zoom. Was it ok to do that?
3. The backing bearing below the table was missing it's E-clip. I squeezed a 1/4" new one to make it for the groove tighter. And then I realized a shim is missing. Tried making one from a washer with sandpaper, but my patience ran thin much quicker than the washer. I'll measure one of the others and look for a replacement. Oh, and a guide block is missing also.
4. Biggest Question: the upper blade guide Assembly has a LOT of play--I don't see how it could accurately guide the blade. It moves almost 1/8" left-right, and has a little twist also. It's a much more noticeable thunk in the upper range, but it's sneakily present when lowered also. Any way to tighten this thing?
5. Lastly, I've been told by a friend that his SS bandsaw wheels were bent because his previous owner left the blade tensioned. My instructions inside the cover don't mention loosening the tension when tucking the bandsaw in for the night.

[chapmanruss]

1. How much play is acceptable in the wheels? I measure 1/32 wobble in upper and lower. With the blade off, the bottom wheel is quiet. Upper wheel has vibration when spun by hand.

They should turn smooth and freely. There shouldn't be a bunch of wobble. On one of my Bandsaws, I checked, I can make the Upper Wheel wobble a bit but that is actually movement of the Arm it is mounted on and not the Bearing. If it is truly wobble in the bearings than there is a problem developing. Remember the Upper Wheel bearing need grease as part of the regular maintenance. They are not a sealed Bearing like the Lower Wheel.

2. The backing bearing closest to the tension assembly wasn't rolling until I fed it a couple drops of Zoom. Was it ok to do that?

Yes, the older Roller Bearings are not sealed Bearings on a shaft like the current ones. The same is true for the Roller Bearings in the Upper and Lower Blade Guides. Oil will keep them rolling on their Shoulder Screws, but oil will also attract dust. If you choose to upgrade the Rollers the Bandsaw Backup Roller Retrofit Kit will give you Sealed Bearings for the Backup Rollers. If you choose to continue using the original Rollers a dry lubricant may be a better choice and will help avoid attracting dust.

3. The backing bearing below the table was missing it's E-clip. I squeezed a 1/4" new one to make it for the groove tighter. And then I realized a shim is missing. Tried making one from a washer with sandpaper, but my patience ran thin much quicker than the washer. I'll measure one of the others and look for a replacement. Oh, and a guide block is missing also.

If you choose to replace the old Rollers with the Bandsaw Backup Roller Retrofit Kit, you won't have to worry about finding a replacement shim. For the Guide Block I would recommend changing to non-metallic "Cool Blocks" instead of the original metal Blocks. This upgrade will replace all 4 Guide Blocks and give you longer Blade life.

4. Biggest Question: the upper blade guide Assembly has a LOT of play--I don't see how it could accurately guide the blade. It moves almost 1/8" left-right, and has a little twist also. It's a much more noticeable thunk in the upper range, but it's sneakily present when lowered also. Any way to tighten this thing?

Getting the Upper Blade Guide Assembly properly adjusted is probably the most difficult thing to do in the adjustments to the Bandsaw. Older Bandsaws did not have the Nylon Bolt in the Guide Column Bracket. Having the Bracket properly adjusted will correct that problem and the addition of the Nylon Bolt will be an improvement to the Guide Column Bracket.

5. Lastly, I've been told by a friend that his SS bandsaw wheels were bent because his previous owner left the blade tensioned. My instructions inside the cover don't mention loosening the tension when tucking the bandsaw in for the night.

You should always release the Blade Tension when the Bandsaw is not in use. Shopsmith made that easier with the current Cover having the window to see the Blade Tension and the opening for the Allen Wrench to adjust or release the Tension.

I realize some of my answers sound like I am trying to sell you on the upgrades, but I believe you will find them to be worthwhile changes to your Bandsaw which sounds like an older model based on your questions. You can make your Bandsaw a well running one without the changes. My 1956 Bandsaw (shown below) runs fine without any of the upgrades I mentioned but to be honest It doesn't really get used much at all.

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Model 630 SN 22784.jpg (66.3 KiB) Viewed 1789 times

[rpd]

Ok, Bandsaw Questions:
1. How much play is acceptable in the wheels? I measure 1/32 wobble in upper and lower. With the blade off, the bottom wheel is quiet. Upper wheel has vibration when spun by hand.
2. The backing bearing closest to the tension assembly wasn't rolling until I fed it a couple drops of Zoom. Was it ok to do that?
3. The backing bearing below the table was missing it's E-clip. I squeezed a 1/4" new one to make it for the groove tighter. And then I realized a shim is missing. Tried making one from a washer with sandpaper, but my patience ran thin much quicker than the washer. I'll measure one of the others and look for a replacement. Oh, and a guide block is missing also.
4. Biggest Question: the upper blade guide Assembly has a LOT of play--I don't see how it could accurately guide the blade. It moves almost 1/8" left-right, and has a little twist also. It's a much more noticeable thunk in the upper range, but it's sneakily present when lowered also. Any way to tighten this thing?
5. Lastly, I've been told by a friend that his SS bandsaw wheels were bent because his previous owner left the blade tensioned. My instructions inside the cover don't mention loosening the tension when tucking the bandsaw in for the night.

There is an excellent thread on all aspects of aligning, adjusting, maintaining, etc, the Shopsmith bandsaw. I used the information therein to get my blade guide perfectly aligned straight and solid.
viewtopic.php?p=96929#p96929

[CreekWood]

Curiosity got to me because I couldn't clearly see the upper blade guide assembly. Pulled it off, and measured the gap between post and bracket. There's 12 thousandths at the upper surface, and maybe 13 at the lower. If my rusty feeler gauge were a little longer, I'd rob it of the .012 leaf and wrap that through the guide block. But there is a tiny bit of axial twist due to the guide block surface opening up maybe an additional thousandth

The Bandsaw exploded parts diagram lists a nylon bolt (517908) and sort of shows where it screws into the guide (5025499). It's a little tempting to drill and tap a hole.

The upper wheel needle bearings were very pretty dry. Cleaned it good and worked some white lithium in there and noted how quiet the wheel is now. I'd never seen retaining ring thing like this wheel has; would never have figured how to pull the wheel without Scott's video. Came off easy, but it stabbed me a few times before going back on.

I'm prioritizing good cuts over quiet backer bearings. I have an inexpensive set of Cool Blocks heading my way.

Oh, and my friend with the warped bandsaw offered to give it to me. RPD--Thanks for the link to the setup thread; I may attempt to save his bandsaw.

[JPG]

Yield to temptation!

[chapmanruss]

Adding the nylon bolt to the bracket as shown below will allow you to adjust out that gap. Get a nylon bolt long enough to extend just past the edge of the bracket to make adjustments easier. The one shown below is a little short but gives you the idea of what it should look like. I believe it was JPG that did a thread on this modification for older Bandsaws.

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DSCF1612sc.jpg (35.25 KiB) Viewed 1661 times

.
If you are uncomfortable drilling and tapping the bracket you can purchase the Guide Column Bracket from Shopsmith. It is part number 5025499 called Bandsaw Retainer for $19.93. The Nylon Bolt is also available and is part number 517908 called Screw for $3.99. I don't know why Shopsmith uses different names sometimes between the Manual's parts lists and the service parts online.

As for the warped Bandsaw it can be fixed. It is a matter of what is warped and how much you are willing to spend to correct it. We can help with advice whenever needed. I have owned, restored, upgraded, repaired, etc. seven Bandsaws ranging from 1956 (the one in my previous post) to 2006.

[CreekWood]

How much play in/out should a quill have? Mine's almost a 16th. Confession: I was standing there ignorantly when my friend (son of the previous owner) cleared the "sawdust" out of the setscrew and attempted to remove this "lock collar." Did we mess anything up?

[JPG]

No, but you did the first step to correct.

The in/out play is eliminated(reduced) by pulling out on the shaft while pushing in the collar AND tightening the set screw WHILE making sure the setscrew is centered on the flat.

Multi tasking fer both hands!